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SS. Koenig Albert - Off the Azores. Nov. 15th. We left New York on the 10th after spending 8 days between N.Y. and Washington. I left an unfinished garden at Newport - the weather for a week before we left being very stormy and bad. My flower borders I had to leave unsettled, and I shall have to manage them by long distance planting. I had hoped to have some leisure in N.Y. but each day brought so many demands. Jean arrived this morning and Mary Newberry in the afternoon. We went over to Washington on the 4th - Theodore and I stopping with Terry and Mathilde in their very charming French appartment. Jean went out to Chevy Chase, where the Wilsons are staying for a time, and spent a night and day with Alice - and then back to Baltimore to stay with Helen, until we picked her up 3 days later. I enjoyed seeing Washington again - and Mathilde had 2 pleasant dinners for us. One day we drove out through the Rocky Creek Valley to Chevy Chase, where we had a lunch at the Country Club. We enjoyed everything during our short little visit - and especially the companionship of Terry and Mathilde. Dinners, teas and visits every day in New York, and made me ready for the quiet of the sea voyage; and I have had a beautiful rest and pleasant occupations up here in my little sky appartment - consisting of the Captain’s rooms on the bridge level. We passed the Azores today - going quite close to the island of St. George.Page 2Wednesday, Nov. 21. Due tomorrow early at Naples. A wonderful voyage - not one rough wave - sunshine, warmth, and a perfectly smooth sea - many pleasant people aboard - about 20 of us, going to Egypt on the Schleswig Friday.Naples. Grand Hotel. Thursday. Nov. 22. We got in this morning early - a bright, clear day, but with a cold wind blowing - characteristic weather for Naples at this season. Vesuvius so quiet - not even a cloud of smoke about it. It has changed its outline very much since the last eruption - the cone is quite lost and the mountain looks dwarfed - the crater opening is on the other side now - from Naples - and not a spark could be seen at night. We are the only guests apparently in this house except the young Duke of Brunswick and his party whom we always see in Egypt. On his way I suppose, now. We are to be off tomorrow on the SS. Schleswig for Alexandria.Cairo, Nov. 27. Shepheards Hotel. After a beautiful voyage on the comfortable Schleswig, we arrived Monday afternoon, in a pouring rain at Alexandria. Fortunately the ship went to the dock - but the disembarking was bad enough. We just caught the train for Cairo. Dr. Hunt and Dr. Grenfell were on the boat and we found them as always - delightful and interesting. The former especially I like. We are in our old rooms overlooking thePage 3garden [smudged word] not many people here. It is said that all the newspapers talk of the unrest in Egypt, has frightened away many people. We found Robert Trefusis waiting on the terrace at Shepheards for us. He is stopping here.Wednesday, Nov. 29. Have paid a visit to the boat, which looks in very good and advanced readiness for us. Have shopped a little, and unpacked everything, or Amelie has, for readjustment for the winter. They have added another floor to this hotel - giving 75 new rooms - nice suites with bath rooms. Mr. Bachler is no longer manager - though he gives a certain supervision to it. He has a very nice house now in the Ghezireh Palace grounds, where he lives - and is a powerful member of the Egyptian Hotels Syndicate. His character is so high and sterling, that he carries great influence and confidence. The Savoy hotel is building an addition almost as big as itself. The Hotel du Nil, has been torn down, and is rebuilding. The Grand Hotel comes down next summer, and a huge business block built in its place. The Ghezireh Palace Hotel will also come down, and be rebuilt on modern lines. Ritz is building a charming looking hotel on the banks of the Nile - a short distance from the English Embassy. The greater part of Cairo is being pulled down, or built upon. The thought pervading everybody seems to be how to speculate and make the most money - and the price of land is abnormal and stupendous. Dr. Hunt and Dr. Grenfell and Robert dined with us and we had a charming evening.Page 4Friday, Nov. 30. We had Mr. Sayce and Robert to dine - Mr. Sayce looks ill and bad - has had a bad cold; he is sad too, and bemoaned the fact that he was growing old - and had to give up some of his activities. It seems to me very pathetic and inconsistent to hear a clergyman making such complaints. “Far above the belief and dream of material living is the Life Divine, revealing spiritual understanding and man’s dominion over the whole earth”.Sunday, 2nd in Advent. At home this morning. In the afternoon we foolishly elected to drive out to the Pyramids for tea at the Mena House - forgetting how crowded it would be on a Sunday afternoon. The drive lost most of its pleasure and beauty from the crowd of whizzing motors that filled the air with dust and stench. Alas! how spoiled Cairo is growing, on its march to modern improvements! Robert went up to Luxor this evening.Monday, Dec. 3rd. Captain Trefusis came in from the Mena House today, dined with us. We like him so much. He has resigned from the army, being such an invalid. His years in the South of Africa have told on him very much. At the boat most of the day.Wednesday, Dec. 5. We took possession this morning of the boat. We have the tug Page 5Thothmes to draw us - a strong, staunch tug. Went through the bridge shortly after 2 o’clock - then through the new Ghizeh bridge, and pulled up at 6:30 about 4 miles from Helouan. Captain Trefusis stayed at the hotel with us, until we came away. We were quite sorry to part with him - very busy settling ourselves.Thursday, Dec. 6. 30 miles. The strong south wind still blows - it being the 12 day of it the Captain says. The river is tremendously high and broad this year, owing to the heavy rains in Abyyssinia - it is like a lake, rather than river and the current very strong - started at 6:30 A.M.Friday, Dec. 7. 44 miles. A lovely day, but strong, south wind - passed the Joe Smiths this morning at breakfast - but did not see them until we were almost past them. This constant south wind is hard for them.Saturday, Dec. 8. 45 miles. We have had our sails out several times today - but most of the time the wind was too strong for us. Made an early start at 5 P.M.Page 6Second Sunday in Advent. 53 miles. We started at early dawn this morning - stopping at Minia for an hour for an express parcel - which after all didn’t come. A strong and favourable wind most of the day, and aft sail out much of the time. Much warmer today.Monday, Dec. 10. 46 miles. A fine, beautiful sailing day - had out our sail much of the time. Passed the Aby Faida chain in fine style. It is a lonely river this year - few boats.Tuesday, Dec. 11. 37 miles. We started early, but there was a thick fog and we stuck in the sand. I looked at my clock and found it 5:30. It made me shudder in my warm bed to hear our poor men in the water, getting us off. Reached Asyût at 8:30 - passed through the lock which was open finely. Stopped to post letters, and get Dr. Henry to see Jean, who has been ailing for a few days. Are lying tonight 4 miles above Aboutig.Wednesday, Dec. 12. 50 miles. We reached Sohag about 5 o’clock and tied up for the night. A very strong cold wind blowing all day and sand flying. We have been passing through some of the most beautiful and highly cultivated country in Egypt for 2 days. The sugar cane cropPage 7is almost ready for the harvest - and at this time the people come from the villages to the banks of the river, with their family, dogs, and flocks and herds, to watch their crops. They build little huts and stockades of dried dourra stalks. It has a very pretty, pastoral air.Thursday, Dec. 13. 51 miles. Pulled up at Nag Hamadi, after dark, and will pass the bridge early tomorrow. Theo issued orders that none of the men should go ashore - as the plague has been quite bad here and at Girga lately. A better day than yesterday - though a high north wind has prevailed - and waves were high and rough. Friday, Dec. 14. 38 miles. Got through the bridge at 8:30 - a cold windy day with the most gorgeous sunset I ever saw. Tied up at 5:30 P.M.Saturday, Dec. 15. 44-1/2 miles. We arrived at 5 o’clock - and pulled up at a little spit of sand, opposite the American Mission. The great sand bank opposite the town is almost unapproachable because of the shallowness of the water. Mr. and Mrs. Murch came over to see us at once. We will get off on Monday. We have taken just 10 days from Cairo. Page 8Sunday, Dec. 16. Third Sunday in Advent. Theodore, Jones and the lunch baskets went over to the Valley this morning - Jean and I stayed at home. Mr. Curelly, and an artist Mr. Tindale, were here to tea.Monday, Dec. 17. 29 miles. Did not get off until nearly 1 o’clock - owing to some trouble with rope of tug. A most lovely afternoon - with such a sunset. We were nearing Gebelein, and the opposite bold Mt. range was touched to pink and deepening crimson, while the western sky was every beautiful shade of blue and soft rose pink, while the new little silver crescent of the moon made a heavenly effect.Tuesday, Dec. 18. 45 miles. The weather grows warmer - and is very fine - passed El Kab at 2:30, much interested in seeing Mr. Somers-Clark’s house - apparently not yet finished. I like it much - and it is probably pretty and convenient inside. A fine situation looking up and down the river. The Safa was lying there - looking very big and fine. We are tonight about 4 miles above Edfu.Wednesday, Dec. 19. 64 miles. We stopped about 7 o’clock - with-in sight of the lights of Aswân. A most lovely day - absolutely hot. All the morning on deck. The night is still and warm, and quitePage 9too beautiful for words. This delicious dry air is so welcome.Thursday, Dec. 20. We came around early to our old landing place at the little island. Found the Zenet-el-Nil near us. Went into town by carriage from Gatarast Hotel, to see Freda i her new home. I quite liked her husband, Mr. Sammary - who is a teacher, and manager or rather helper at the German Mission School. Freda herself looked much improved, much thinner. Their apartment on the ground floor, consisting of sitting room, bed room and kitchen, opened on to a very pretty garden. She was delighted to see me and Jean. We took her some little presents, and she introduced us to the Doctor and his sweet faced wife and took us through the rather small school. In the afternoon Theo, Jean and I were rowed around to the Savoy Hotel, and had tea in those delightful gardens.Friday, Dec. 21. 12 miles. We started with the tug about 7 o’clock. It was interesting getting up into those cataract waters again, and took me back to that morning, years ago, when on the Herodotus we attempted getting up, and met with such a fiasco. It was tiresome and nervous getting through the 4 different locks, because of the crowding gyassas, and the consequent noise and shrieking. We entered the first lock at 8 A.M. and passed the last at 11 o’clock. The special cataract rais for the cataract, as we came out, took the tug Page 10immediately over a pile of loose stones under the water, nearly upsetting her, and of course we followed, the stones grinding under our whole length. Theo was furious and with reason. The river above the dam was a large lake - the palm trees more or less submerged, and Philad standing in water. We passed Debôt, with its ruined Ptolemaic temple, and are now lying 2 miles above it - against a charming low desert shore. The day has been very hot - 78 on my cabana.Saturday, Dec. 22nd. 66 miles. Made an early start at 5 - and tied up at 5 P.M. The day lovely - not quite so hot as yesterday. I got up at 6 o’clock to see the lovely morning with the exquisite desert colouring - and one of the first things I saw was the ruined little temple of Kertassi, standing in the golden yellow sands under the light of the dawn. I was so interested too in the almost continuous villages on both sides of the river, so clear and orderly, the house solidly built of stones, and with some effort at architectural effect or rather ornament and with occasional white minarets and mosques - all of these villages struggling up - over the rough bare desert. The poor palms are still standing most of them in water, looking sad enough - with their yellowing and dying fronds. Others, farther back, on dry land showing several feet up their stems the mark of the water. As the day went on, the conditions improved somewhat. The villages became so interesting and a real artistic spirit seemed abroad. The houses had ornamental brick work “à jour” across their fronts - often of excellent Page 11workmanship and design - and frequently tiles and plates were used. In some of them, the ornamental balustrade around the top seemed to enclose earth in which small shrubs were planted. Altogether very interesting. The small temples seen in this part of the river from time to time are not very attractive. I have already visited them during my two former visits. Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec. 23rd. 77 miles. We are lying tonight between the two towns of Genena and Shibbâik - having made 77 miles. There are left 26 miles between this and Abu Simbel for tomorrow. This has been another perfect day and we have been coming through the most fertile and beautiful scenery I have seen on the Nile. We came, too, to the natural river with its current, and are free from the back water of the barrage. The palms have been magnificent - and such a rich, dark, polished green. Never have I seen such fine scent trees, and in such perfect bloom and so many of them, - large forest trees in fact. And the tamarasks look almost like English yews - so compact are they and so dark in colour. This afternoon in passing the interesting remains of the Roman fortress Kasr Ibrâm, on its lofty rock, the scenery was quite beyond painting - the western side being a wonderful stretch of gold red desert, as far as the eye could see, broken by bold detached bare hills, their black iron coating making such contrasts in color. Quite too beautiful and impressive ever to be forgotten.Page 12Monday, Dec. 24th. 23 miles. We were off at 6 o’clock and reached Abu Simbel at 11:30 - tremendously hot. Mr. and Mrs. Newman whose dahabya we knew was there as usual, came over at once to see us, and stayed until lunch - asked us to tea, and promised to come and dine with us. Mr. Newman harrowed our feelings by telling us we must be careful of snakes in the temples - that 2 mornings before the track of a large, very large snake had been traced in the sand from a certain place into the larger temple, and they were feeling rather nervous about it. He has his painting tent just in front of the temple. We had pleasant visits with them and said goodbye after dinner to them.Tuesday, Dec. 25. Christmas. 76 miles. As we drew away from the bank at 8 o’clock this morning, we saw Mr. N. on the bank, waving his white umbrella in farewell. We have made fast time today, and are lying at Sabua tonight. Very hot today, and very high wind.Wednesday, Dec. 26. 95 miles. We have come at a tremendous pace today - the heat still holds. We are lying within 6 miles of Shellal at a lovely dry slope of sand - the air so dry and very warm. These moonlight nights are most lovely. I was on deck most of the day - in spite of the wind.Page 13Thursday, Dec. 27. 46 miles. An early start brought us to Philae at 7 o’clock, had a beautiful view of it - stopped an hour or more at Shellal to coal - passed the lock at 11 o’clock and stopped at Aswân just long enough to get our mail, and pay a hurried goodbye visit to Freeda at the Mission. Very hot all day - are lying 6 miles below Silsilis - and M. Maspero is just behind us. 46 miles in 5 hours is good going. Found a huge mail at Aswân. Friday, Dec. 28. 86 miles. Started at 6 A.M. and arrived at Luxor at 4 P.M. A charming day - hot, but with cool wind - a quick journey from Aswân at 12 noon yesterday to Luxor today at 4. The tug started down at once. She has taken us 1079 miles - about the distance from Naples to Alexandria. An expensive luxury but convenient.Saturday, Dec. 29. We tied up on arriving yesterday to a little rag of a sand bank about where we were last year. The “Dongola” is the only other dahabya here. Theo went over to the Valley this morning, and Jean and I went to see Miss Buchanan - Mr. Carter came in for tea - so glad to see him.First Sunday after Christmas. Dec. 30. A quiet pleasant day at home. Theo and Jean at Karnac this Page 14afternoon.Monday, Dec. 31. Home all day. Mr. Somers-Clarke and Mr. Carter were here this afternoon, and stayed to tea. Theo and Jean at Karnac.Jan. 1st. 1907. Mr. Ayrton to lunch and Mr. and Mrs. Pumpelly with Raphael Pumpelly were here to tea and Joe Smith to dine. Very warm.Jan. 2nd. Wednesday. A telegram from Nettie, saying she will arrive tomorrow at 9 A.M. All the Pumpellys dined with us. Thursday, Jan. 3rd. Jean and I breakfasted at 8:30 and went over to Luxor and to the station to meet Nettie who arrived promptly at 9. It is 5 years since she was here. The Miss Collins arrived by the same train.Friday, Jan. 4th. Mr. Ayrton wrote a note this morning to Theo saying he had found a tomb. Theo had intended going over today, so when he returned he reported that it promised something - but was still uncertain. Jean and I went over to the hotel to pay some visits.Page 15Saturday, Jan 5. Another note from Mr. Ayrton saying the tomb was not a tomb! Nettie was so disappointed. Dr. Wiedemann and his wife dined with us tonight. They are delightful people, and we had a charming evening.Sunday, Jan. 6. A quiet delightful morning - Mr. Dalison came to lunch - some of Jean’s friends to tea.Monday, Jan. 7. Theodore went over to the Valley this morning - found it very hot - and when he got back quite late, told us that Ayrton had this time found a real tomb. We are all going over tomorrow, and so are Mr. and Mrs. Weigall. Joe Smith is staying at the Valley tonight with Ayrton. Jean went to the hotel to lunch with Mrs. Peckett - Nettie and I had a beautiful lunch on deck, and at 3 o’clock went over to the hotel for her - Mrs. Peckett, the Misses Collins, and Carter were there - we brought Carter home with us, calling on our way back on their dahabya “Stella” on the Smiths. Mr. and Mrs. Weigall came to tea.Tuesday, Jan. 8th. All of us went over to the Valley this morning - found Mr. Ayrton had cleared enough to show a small chamber which he thought was the whole tomb. But after lunch it was found that a doorway which had been sealed up as that in the tomb of Touyou and Iuia led to a corridor.Page 16In removing some of the blocks of stone which hindered progress, a fine broken alabaster vase, and some bits of gold foil were found; so the work for the day was stopped, as it was too late to open it, the guards and police were sent for, and we rode home - speculating as to who the tomb had belonged. Mr. Weigall and his wife were already camping in the Valley - and wanted Nettie and Jean to stay with them the night - which they did - delighted at the opportunity. Joe Smith and his wife also stayed. A very nice man, an Englishman, whom Theo had met the day before, lunched in the tomb with us, Mr. David Erskin M.P. Theo and I had a quiet evening alone - a most unusual thing.Jan. 9. Wednesday. We made rather an early start this morning - Theo and I, with Amelie and Jones, and Hassein. When we arrived at the tomb, every one was waiting for us as the doorway and steps had been cleared, and everything ready for an entrance. Ayrton, Weigall and Theo scrambled along the corridor over the tombs, and made a very difficult entrance. Mr. Erskine, by invitation had joined us, we women, with Mr. E., Mrs. Weigall, and Joe and his wife, sat about on the rocks above, and waited straining our ears to catch the broken exclamations that reached us from below - “Aton! The rays of the Sun” Tut-ankh-amen” etc. and at last Mr. Davis’s voice rang out, “By Jove, Queen Tyi, and no mistake” and so it proved. On the rough stones of the corridor rested a wooden door, 12 x 14 ft. long - 6 ft. wide, and a smaller one about 2 x 4 - with bronze doors and hinges - both doors covered with gold foil - the Page 17smaller one in quite good condition, and on it the cartouche of Tyi, and that of her husband Amenhotep III. The burial chamber was not large, but in a state of great confusion. The Queen would seem to have been laid in a great, highly decorated, wood shrine - parts of which were on the floor, or leaning against the wall, - the coffin on the floor - all showing hasty burial, or robbery or desecration. I did not go down - but Nettie, Mrs. Weigall, and Jean went down - one by one - Theo was determined that Nettie should be the first one to see it, and she was the first woman to enter. All the men had been down. We had a big lunch with everyone, and a charming day. Very warm today.Thursday, Jan.10. Theo and the girls went again to the Valley. I wouldn’t face that long ride in the hot sun today - and so had a nice quiet day at home. They came back very tired, bringing word of the many treasures of the tomb. Tomorrow the tomb is to be given over into the hands of a skillful photographer sent for from Cairo - and Joe Smith is also painting there. Jan. 11. Friday. Theo came over in the Valley again - had Carter lunching with us.Page 18Jan. 12. Saturday. Theo at home for a rest. The girls and I over at Luxor - visiting and shopping. Mr. Erskine dined with us. A nice, big, handsome Englishman.Jan. 13. 1st Sunday after Epiphany. M. and Mme. Naville dined with us.Luxor, Jan. 14. Monday. A quiet day at home. The Maspero’s boat arrived this morning. Theo went over to see them - they are delighted with the finding of Tyi’s tomb - weather cool and pleasant - the mountains were wonderful at dawn this morning - the first rosy touch of the sun on their highest peaks until the whole range burned with a rosy light - transfused as it were - as if its colour came from itself.Tuesday, Jan. 15. It has been a dull, dark day with north wind in squalls. A pleasant visit from M. and Mme. Maspero this afternoon and a nice cable from Mr. Robinson of congratulation to Theo. this evening we had a gale, and were battered about - and rain fell for a time.Wednesday, Jan. 16. We had a hard rain for 2 hours this A.M. and it was cold. The Masperos went to the Valley in spite of it. Mme. Maspero had my chair.Page 19Theo went over later, and they had lunch with him.Thursday, Jan. 17. Theo and Jean went over to the Valley this morning. Theo reports that they were clearing the corridor and bracing up stones which held part of wooden shrine. It is all under Ayrton’s charge. Nettie and I crossed to Luxor this morning. I went to the Luxor Hotel to see Mrs. Congdon, who is better, and then joined Nettie at the Temples, and we took a carriage and drove to the Girls Mission School but found Miss Buchanan was in Asyût attending the yearly conference. Stopped at Mohassibs for a little visit. The poor man looks old and ill. Mr. Carter and Rev. Mr. Samms came to tea. Friday, Jan. 18. We all went over to Karnac this afternoon - met Mme. Maspero and a friend there. Mr. Sayce arrived early in the day - I sent him a note asking him to come to tea. Saturday, Jan, 19. At the Valley. Dr. Wiedermann and wife, and Mr. Sayce were over and lunched with us in the lunch tomb. I went down to the burial chamber and it is now almost easy of access - and saw the poor Queen as she lies now just a bit outside her magnificent coffin, with the vulture crown on her head - all the woodwork of the shrine, doors, etc. are heavily overlaid with gold foil - which under the influence of the Page 20outer air is now peeling off - and I seemed to be walking on gold - and even the Arab working inside had some of it sticking in his wooly hair. Here is the sketch of the tomb and situation of objects.No. 1. mummy of Queen - partly overlaid by coffin No. 2 - both on the floor. 3,3,3,3, doors or panels - very large, heavily overlaid with gold, - the one with the x, has a beautiful portrait of Queen. All of them beautifully incised on the gold leaf. Aton rays on all and Khuenatens cartouche followed by an inscription “I made this for the great Queen Tyi, royal mother”. The 4 x-a against the wall are 4 large panels, all gold and inscriptions.Second Sunday after Epiphany - Jan. 20. Home all day - Theo and Nettie went to Karnac in the afternoon. Many visitors. Mrs. Smith, Sir Benjamin Stone, Mr. Briggs and Currelly; Mr. Sayce dined with us. Cool, all day - cold, now. My mountains were wonderful this A.M.Monday, Jan. 21. Theo at the Valley all day - he reports all the panels being treated to paraffin to hold the gold in place. Weidermans dined with us. Our new moon should have shown.Tuesday, Jan. 22. Prof. Tarbell, Chicago University, called with a letter from Mr. Lythgoe. Robert Trefusis and Harold Jones arrived from Abydos - on coming back after some visits this afternoon found them here. They came back to dine.Wednesday, Jan. 23. Robert and H. Jones to dine again - discussed how to treat the panels and doors of shrine. H.J. came here to paint or draw them, finds it very difficult - decided to take an impression of inscriptions by wax and plaster of paris - our little new moon showed for the first time tonight.Thursday, Jan. 24. Theo at home today. Ayrton and Mr. Dalison lunched with us. We all went over to the new hotel, the “Winter Palace” to have tea and called on Mrs. Harriman, who is lying opposite us in the new private steamer the Soudan. Robert and H.J. dined with us. Lovely day.Friday, Jan. 25. Theo was all day at the Tomb - entertained at luncheon, Prof. Tarbell and M. Lacau - Ayrton, Weigall, Robert and Harold Jones. They at last lifted the coffin off the mummy without much damage. Owing toPage 22the past presence of water in the tomb, the coffin, except for the cover which is made of gold inlaid with lapis and carnelian, had gone into ruins - and her poor mummy turned into dust. They took off the vulture crown and saw a necklace and bracelets - but did not disturb them as they want a doctor to examine the skeleton and pronounce upon her sex, scientifically. They found the body wrapped in thick gold plates rather than foil. Theo brought the crown home with him - and it now lies in the closet at the head of my bed! It is of solid gold, and represents the royal vulture, with out-spread wings and meeting behind the head, beautifully done in a fine répoussé style - every feather perfect. Robert and H.J. dined here.Saturday, Jan. 26. We all went over to the Valley this morning and I made my last descent into the tomb. The morning was warm - my poor little donkeys were tired - for Luxor has been the prey of countless multitudes of tourists for weeks. It was our last opportunity to see the tomb and the Queen. She is nothing but a mass of black dust and bones. Everything is now to be taken out of the tomb, as soon as Harold Jones finishes the drawing of the big door - everything has been likewise photographed. Mr. David Erskine, M.P. a delightful Englishman, Theo fell in with awhile ago, lunched with us for the 2d time in the lunch tomb. We had a merry lunch. Mrs. Harriman and daughter, and Miss Bishop came to see the tomb.Page 23Septuagesima Sunday, Jan. 27. I had my quiet little church today - about 4 o’clock as we were waiting for tea, on deck, we saw coming across the distant sands the procession of the treasures of the tomb on its way to us - Weigall and Ayrton on horses led the way, and a long procession of Arabs following carrying the boxes - and the sun striking the rifles of the accompanying sailors. It was really impressive. Our faluccas were sent for them, and a large native gyassa pressed into service - and they are now safely stowed on deck - the smaller things below. Dr. Weideman and his wife and Mr. Sayce dined with us.Monday, Jan. 28. A lovely warm day - Theo in the Valley. He says everything that is to be moved is out of the tomb. The ashes and bones of the Queen have been reverently gathered and put into a box - and left there - and the tomb is to be hermetically sealed. Mr. Erskine dined with us.Tuesday, Jan. 29. Theo took over Mrs. Harriman and party to Medinet Habu today. Mr. Sayce came to tea, and we looked over many of the interesting treasure we have on board. Jones had a carpenter here early this morning to construct a big box to hold everything that must stay on deck - and now this box 8-1/2 ft. long by 5 ft. high and broad is on our back upper deck and looks formidable and is safe against everything but a concerted raid.Page 24Wednesday, Jan. 30. M. and Mme. Maspero came to tea and to see the treasures. Mr. Lacau with them. Mrs. Harriman, her daughter and Miss Bishop dined with us. They are on their way to Khartoum.Thursday, Jan. 31. Mr. and Mrs. S. R. Fuller, with a letter from Mr. and Mrs. Jack Elliott of Rome, came this morning and Mr. and Mrs. Syms and their 2 daughters, people we used to know in the old Bon Air days, came to lunch - and several other visitors.Friday, Feb. 1. Theo and Jean in the Valley today. Mr. Carter came to lunch with us.Saturday, Feb. 2. We all went to lunch with Mr. Sayce. M. and Mme. Naville and Mr. and Mrs. Weigall were there - very pleasant. Then we went to the Luxor Hotel gardens to have tea with Mr. and Mrs. Fuller, who had a great gathering of people. I met for the first time Miss Hazard, President of Wellesley College, and Miss Bates Prof. of Literature of Wellesley. On our way home we stopped at the Winter Palace, to see Miss Tuckerman. Mr. and Mrs. Guthrie of New York, and the Iddings of Cairo. Harold Jones dined with us.Page 25Sexagesima Sunday - Feb. 3. Mr. and Mrs. Guthrie came to breakfast and stayed until 12 o’clock - perfectly enraptured with all the Egyptian talk and things. He is most interesting. Mr. and Mme. Naville came to lunch - and Harold Jones. Joe Smith and his wife and mother were here for tea. Mr. Van Alen called, and M. and Mme. Maspero and Mr. Dalison dined with us. The day pleasant and warm - and the early morning dawn, ravishingly beautiful.Monday, Feb. 4. At home all day. Misses Collins called this afternoon, and I showed them the treasures.Tuesday, Feb. 5. Ayrton to lunch - the Wiedemans and Harte to tea.Wednesday, Feb. 6. Joe Smith has been painting one of the beautiful Tyi heads of the canopic jars here all the morning. Nettie, Jean and I lunched with Mrs. Weigall. Mr. W. ill and did not appear. Mr. Smith lunched with Theo - and Mr. Van Alen and friend had tea here, and saw the “find”. After we left Mrs. Weigalls we went to the Luxor, and had tea on the croquet lawn with the Misses Collins - very pleasant. Mr. Sayce sailed for Aswân.Page 26Thursday, Feb. 7. Mr. and Mrs. Henry Osborne of Milwaukie called this morning. Miss Tuckerman and her niece lunched with us. Mrs. Murch and Miss Bates were here for tea. Joe Smith painting.Friday, Feb. 8 Theo was in the Valley today. Mr. Van Alen and his friend, Ayrton and Jones lunched with him. Nettie, Jean and I went over to the Luxor Hotel and head tea with Mr. Carter. Saturday, Feb. 9 Mr. Smith still painting here - stayed to lunch, and went out afterwards with us to the Tombs of the Queens. A charming ride.Quinquagesima Sunday, Feb. 10. Mr. Carter came this afternoon with Lord and Lady Halsbury to see the find and soon after M. and Mme. Naville, their daughter and her husband, M. and Mme. Fatio came - and we had such a pleasant talk with M. Naville over the treasures. Then we all went to the Masperos for tea and to meet Sir Wm. Garstin and wife, Mr. Goschen, and a major Percira and his wife. We afterwards called on the Livingstons.Monday, Feb. 11. It was warm today. Theo over in Luxor, calling on MissPage 27Buchanan, and Miss Tuckerman. This afternoon M. Maspero, Sir William Garstin, Mr. Goschen, and Major and Mrs. Percira came to tea and after were shown the find. M. Maspero delighted Theo by saying they wanted him to have one of the canopic heads and he hoped he would choose the best one. Theo replied he would not do that, but would choose the one having a stain across the head caused by dripping water. They were all delighted with the things - Sir William, I found most interesting. It is raining a little tonight. Tuesday, Feb. 12. Harold Jones began painting the beautiful Tyl head this morning - and was here all day. Theo took Jean and Miss Tuckerman with him to Karnac. Dr. and Mrs. Pollack came to tea. Day very dark and threatening - and last night a hard gale was raging.Wednesday, Feb. 13. Ash Wednesday. Harold Jones again painting. Miss Tuckerman and Joan came to lunch. In the afternoon we all went over to Der el Bahari, and M. Naville showed Miss T. the temple. She was delighted with him and the opportunity. We went afterwards to tea with Mme. Naville at the German House. When we got home we found we had missed M. Maspero. Mr. Percy Machaye and Lady Victoria, his wife; but Harold Jones showed the treasures. We also missed Sir Henry Craik.Page 28Thursday, Feb. 14. We were overwhelmed with people this A.M. A Mr. and Mrs. Crocker introduced by letter from the Folgers, and Mr. White. They both brought boat loads of people with them - a nuisance and impertinence! Mr. Hall also came, but we lost the pleasure of his visit, by this crowd. 17 people at once in our little salon, is too much. Theo and Jean in the valley, they got home early, as Lord and Lady Cromer were coming at 5 o’clock. The Weigalls, and a Mr. Eric Villiers saw the things and then came the Cromers and M. Maspero, and Lady Cromer was much interested and he much more so than he seemed. They were entranced with the boat and especially with my room. She is quite charming and he is interesting because of his achievements, and because of the power he wields.Friday, Feb. 15. All the family except myself went to the Valley today. Miss Tuckerman with them. Harold Jones and I had a pleasant quiet day. Mr. and Mrs. John H. Livingston called. The Masperos started down the river today.Saturday, Feb. 16. Nettie and Jean lunched with Miss Tuckerman today. This afternoon the Hutesons, and some friends of Jeans, Dr. Schweinfürt, and Fachery Pasha called. Quite warm.Page 291st Sunday in Lent. Feb. 17. Mr. Hall lunched with us. Theo was in Luxor this A.M. and Carter told him of various small and precious things which had been shown him by a native which had been stolen from Tyi’s tomb. The man had told Carter that Mr. Davis could have them all for £400. - provided no attempt at arrest was made! These fellows are difficult to deal with. Theo told Carter if the men would produce everything they had, and would show them, he might consider a price and promise no arrests to be made. Their practice is to mass together a lot of valuable things on such an occasion, with what has been stolen from a late find, and try to get a big price for all. Later in the day Theo went into Abd el Hamed’s and Ali’s shops on the river, and the latter handed him several small objects from the tomb - some gold “neferts” from the necklace, carnelian lotus flowers, and a lovely bit of gold and enamel from a necklace - only one of which we have - and it is marked No. 17 in hieroglyphic characters. Ali would not take anything for these - among them one bearing Aten’s cartouche. It is humiliating to find that thieves have been among your trusted workmen - they have such chances in sifting dèbris, to hide a valuable thing in their loose clothes. Mr. Lythgoe and Countess Henckel and her daughter Countess Hahn came to tea - and M. and Mme. Fatio and Dalison dined with us. A lovely warm day.Monday, Feb. 18. A most unpleasant day of tremendous wind and sand flying in Page 30clouds over us. No one ventured out. Mr. Lythgoe to lunch.Tuesday, Feb. 19. Countess Henckel, and Hahn and Ayrton to lunch. Ayrton deeply distressed about the robbery. He suspects the trusted Rais, or rather 2 sons of his. It is mysterious. Harold Jones finished his two paintings of Tyi, and went back to Abydos tonight. A boat load of people came this afternoon with a note from Mrs. Weigall asking that they might be shown the find. Miss Tuckerman came to say goodbye, as she is off for Aswân.Thursday, Feb. 21st. Theo, Nettie and I went over to Luxor this A.M. Theo to see Weigall about robbery. Nettie and I to Carter’s studio - asked him to tea. Joe Smith, and wife, dined here. Theo later went to the Valley with Jean and Countess Hahn.Friday, Feb. 22. A quiet day on board. Rev. Mr. Samms came in the afternoon to play chess with Theo and Mr. and Mrs. Smith came to tea.Saturday, Feb. 23. Theo and Nettie went to Der el Medinet this afternoon. Robert Trefusis arrived unexpectedly. Prof. Fairfield Osborn, his son, and Mrs. Evert Jansen Wendell came - having sent on their letters of introductionPage 31from Mrs. Parsons and Mary, some days before their arrival.Second Sunday in Lent. Feb. 24. Such a busy day - and such a tiresome afternoon. The very nice Osborns, son and Mr. Wendell came at 11 A.M. to be shown the treasures - enraptured with them. Dalison and Robert to lunch. At 3 o’clock a farewell visit from M. and Mme. Naville, and M. and Mme. Fatio - also from Countess Henckel and Countess Hahn - Mr. Le Grain and his wife had been formally asked to tea some days ago and Mr. Weigall had written last evening asking if he might bring Lord and Lady Carnarvon, and Mrs. Loring and her friend of Boston to see the find, Dr. Johnson belonging to the Carnarvons. These latter I thought simply intolerable. But it was tiresome! The nice Osborns and Mr. Wendell and Robert dined here. A charming evening with charming people. Monday, Feb. 25. Nettie, Theo and I over in Luxor this A.M. Nettie and I to say goodbye to Miss Buchanan and to call on the Pollocks - stopped at the Luxor Hotel for the Miss Collins who were coming to lunch. Such a nice visit, from two Scotch bodies I like so much. Mr. Murch was here this morning, and he promised to bring his wife and our old friend Mohammed Mohassib this afternoon to see the find. The poor old man has had a stroke this winter and is sadly changed. Theo and the girls were away - but I showed him everything and we all had tea together. He Page 32was pathetic - and I think we will hardly find him here next year. We are ready to get off tomorrow. I shall hate leaving my beautiful mountains and desert - our sand island has grown enormously - and the patches of wheat Jones sowed for the fowls is now quite ornamental. But we do look forward to relief from continual visitors. Our young moon already makes the nights glorious. Tuesday, Feb. 26. Mr. Carter, Ayrton, and Robert came to say goodbye early - with over 2 policemen. We thought it best to ask for them, as we found our men were all in a funk about having so many treasures on board. We got away at noon. The Smiths are following us. We have made 23 miles. Tied up at 6:30.Wednesday, Feb. 27. 47 miles. We are lying this lovely night about 4 miles above Kasr el Said - having made a good record. It has been warm and the night is wonderful.Thursday, Feb. 28. 26 miles. We reached Nag Hamadi at 9 o’clock this morning - and had to wait for the bridge. The Smiths soon pulled up behind us - and the family came over, sweet babies and all, for a visit. Joe has not yet joined them - telegraphed Mr. Garstang at Abydos that we would reach there tomorrow. Passed the bridge at one o’clock.17