volume-5_1897-1898.xml

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            <titleStmt>
                <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                <author>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                </author>
                <editor>
                    <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                </editor>
                <respStmt>
                    <resp>EBA Interns</resp>
                    <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                    <persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
                    <persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
                    <persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
                </respStmt>
            </titleStmt>
            <publicationStmt>
                <publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
                <address>
                    <addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
                </address>
                <availability>
                    <licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
                        licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0
                        International License."></licence>
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                <date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
                <distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
            </publicationStmt>
            <notesStmt>
                <note>Volume 5 1897-1898</note>
            </notesStmt>
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                <bibl>
                    <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                    <author>
                        <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                    </author>
                    <orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
                    <address>
                        <addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
                    </address>
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                <p>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
                    for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
                    antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
                        Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
                    with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
                    along the <name type="river" ref="#Nile">Nile</name>, including his important
                    yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
                        ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
                    archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
                    picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
                    literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
                    twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
                    contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
                    about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
                    in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
                    digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
                    Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
                    The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
                    Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
                    Humanities education and internships.</p>
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                    <person role="editor" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Affiliate Instructor</occupation>
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                            <event>
                                <p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
                            </event>
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                    <person role="intern" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Student Intern</occupation>
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                                <p>Team member 2015-2016</p>
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            <pb n="134"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971119" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Nov. 19. 1897.</title></p>
                <p>It is now 6 days since we sailed from New York at 10 A.M. on Nov. 13 on the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Kaiser Wilhelm II">Kaiser Wilhelm II</name>. <persName
                        ref="#Beal_Montgomery"> Montgomery Beal</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Annie">Mrs. Davis’s</persName> nephew with us. We have had a
                    pleasant passage though very little sun - pleasant passengers too, many friends
                    and acquaintances. <persName ref="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Julia">Mrs. Julie Ward
                        Howe</persName>, with her daughter <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs_John">Mrs.
                        John Elliot</persName>, and her husband. <persName ref="#Norman_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Norman</persName> with her daughter <persName ref="#Norman_Mable"
                        >Mable</persName>, and son <persName ref="#Norman_Reginald"
                        >Reginald</persName> from Newport. <persName
                        ref="#Freufanellé-Cibo_Countess">Countess Freufanellé-Cibo</persName> of
                    Foligno - introduced to us by <persName ref="#Cortazzo_Madame">Madame
                        Cortazzo</persName>. <persName ref="#Wilson_Mrs">Mrs. Wilson</persName>of
                        <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName>, who crossed with us last
                    year - a bride then, with her husband, <persName ref="#Wilson_Capt_Stewart"
                        >Capt. Stewart Wilson</persName> of the Royal Engineers - and <persName
                        ref="#Shaw Oliver_Mrs_Robert">Mrs. Robert Shaw Oliver</persName> with her 3
                    girls from Albany, going out to Florence for the winter. So that it was like a
                    reception all the way over. Every afternoon they all came to tea with me in the
                    saloon - and every evening <persName ref="#Ward Howe_Mrs_Julia">Mrs. Julia Ward
                        Howe</persName> played whist with <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >me</persName> and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mr">Mr.Whitehead</persName>, who with <persName
                        ref="#Whitehead_Mrs">Mrs. W.</persName> is also on board, and a very good
                    game the delightful old lady played. We have with us also, <persName
                        ref="#Anderson_ Hendrick">Hendrick Anderson</persName> the young sculptor,
                    going back to Rome, who has been with us so much this summer. Today we passed
                    the <geogName ref="#Azores_Islands">Azores</geogName> - not keeping to the south
                    as we did last year, when we passed the large and important island of <geogName
                        ref="#São_Miguel_Island_Azores">San Miguel</geogName>. Today we passed in
                    between <geogName ref="#Faial_Island_Azores">Fayal</geogName> and <country
                        ref="#Spain">San Jose</country> - then past <geogName
                        ref="#São_Jorge_Island_Azores">St. George</geogName>, and along the
                    beautiful island of <geogName ref="#Tanicera_Island_Azores">Tanicera</geogName>,
                        <geogName ref="#São_Miguel_Island_Azores">San Miguel</geogName> being just
                    visible away to the south and east. We have very comfortable rooms and the ship
                    is clean and comfortable - though she rolls even in these smooth seas. She has
                    the nickname of Rolling Billy.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="135"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971122" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Nov. 19. 1897</title></p>
                <p>Arrived at 9:30 this morning - bright but with heavy squalls of wind. <persName
                        ref="#Wilson_Capt_Stewart">Capt. Wilson</persName> came out to meet his
                        <persName ref="#Wilson_Mrs">wife</persName> - and the sea was so rough, she
                    went off in the tug with all the others. I did not go, as past experience at
                        <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName> in the rain, warned me not
                    to venture. So the <persName ref="#Freufanellé-Cibo_Countess"
                        >Countess</persName> and I wandered about and talked and grew weary enough
                    before the others came back late for lunch.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971125" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Naples. Nov. 25.</title></p>
                <p>Arrived at 7 A.M. the <geogName ref="#Mediterranean_Sea">Mediterranean</geogName>
                    proving as quiet as the Atlantic. Came to the Grand Hotel, where we found
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >Mary</persName> waiting for us. After a comfortable breakfast before the
                    fire in our pleasant sitting room overlooking the bay and <geogName
                        ref="#Mount_Vesuvius">Vesuvius</geogName>, we sat about and talked and
                    pleasantly idled away the hours, rejoicing to be on land once more. <geogName
                        ref="#Mount_Vesuvius">Vesuvius</geogName>, after his late activity, is again
                    quiet. <persName ref="#Freufanellé-Cibo_Countess">The Countess</persName> came
                    to lunch with us, and the <persName ref="#Oliver_Mrs">Olivers</persName>. Then
                    we all said goodbye, and they went off to <placeName ref="#Florence"
                        >Florence</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971201" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Dec.1. Wednesday.></title></p>
                <p>Our days in <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> have been rather dull.
                    Weather bad. <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> with a bad cold -
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> really ill with one - and
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> just recovering from a
                    severe attack of influenza. <persName ref="#Anderson_Hendrick"
                        >Anderson</persName> went up to Rome 2 days ago. We enjoyed going to the
                    sculpture gallery of the museum with him. <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie"
                        >Lizzie</persName> and <persName ref="#Mary">Mary</persName> took last
                    nights train to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. Taylor</persName> suddenly appeared this afternoon,
                    having arrived from <placeName ref="#Genoa">Genoa</placeName> on the Königen.
                        <pb n="136"/>
                    <persName ref="#Luise">Luise</persName> - came to the boat about 5 - found her
                    crowded - I was bored - comfortable deck rooms - <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Bend</persName>, <persName ref="#Amy">Amy</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Beatrice">Beatrice</persName> joined us last night.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971202" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday. Dec. 2d.</title></p>
                <p>Passed <placeName ref="#Sicily">Sicily</placeName> this morning -<geogName
                        ref="#Mount_Etna">Aetna</geogName> covered with snow - cold wind blowing -
                    sea calm as a river.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971204" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday. Dec. 4.</title></p>
                <p>We will reach <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port Said</placeName> tonight. The
                    Königen Luise has beautiful great decks - but she is tremendously over crowded
                    with passengers for <country ref="#Egypt">Egypt</country>. About 100 for
                        <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port Said</placeName> - we have decided some of
                    us to go to <placeName ref="#Ismaelia">Ismaelia</placeName> - the <persName
                        ref="#Norman_Mr">Normans</persName> and <persName ref="#Bend_Mr"
                        >Bends</persName> never having seen <geogName ref="#Sweet_Water_Canal">the
                        canal</geogName>. </p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971207" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Cairo - Shepheards Hotel. Tuesday - Dec. 7.</title></p>
                <p>We reached <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port Said</placeName> Saturday at midnight
                    - the usual fracas and disagreeable features of coaling all night. Ports, doors,
                    everything closed - noise etc. - to my thinking there is nothing gained by going
                    on to <placeName ref="#Ismailia_Egypt">Ismailia</placeName> - better solve the
                    unpleasant problem by quitting the steamer at any hour she arrives, and
                    accepting anything that can be found at <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port
                        Said</placeName>. As it was, we slept little were very slow in getting
                    through <geogName ref="#Sweet_Water_Canal">the canal</geogName> the next day,
                    sticking several times, and did not reach <placeName ref="#Ismailia_Egypt"
                        >Ismailia</placeName> until 7:30 - waited some time for the tender, and did
                    not land before 9:30 - a passable supper - and bed rooms - <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Nettie">Nettie</persName> and <pb n="137"/> in one room - my
                    bed so chill and damp, that I have suffered much from it - we reached <placeName
                        ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> at 6 P.M. and were soon installed in our old
                    corner rooms to the north - feeling very much at home. We drove down to the boat
                    this morning - finding her almost in sailing condition. There remain however,
                    all the stores to be unpacked, and a thousand little things to be arranged and
                    settled.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971226" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday after Christmas. Dec. 26. Beduin.</title></p>
                <p>At last we are settled in this our delightful little winter home - and it would
                    be entirely perfect had I only my dear <persName ref="#Toby">Toby</persName>
                    here! How glad I am to quit all that entourage at Shepheards, I cannot even
                    express to myself! I have had 10 days of real illness - several days in my bed.
                    In all my life I have never been so ill - the winter is a bad one in <country
                        ref="Egypt">Egypt</country> - cold - high winds - and little sunshine. We
                    kept a steady fire in our sitting room. Everyone has a cold. <persName
                        ref="#Bend_Mrs.">Mrs. Bend</persName> and <persName ref="#Norman_Mrs.">Mrs.
                        Norman</persName> half the time in their beds. We found our faithful
                        <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammad">Mohammed Salah</persName> waiting for us at
                    the station when we arrived, and <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Ibrahim">Ibrahim</persName>. We had our Xmas this morning,
                    and gave the men all around, shawls and knives and cigarettes- good woolen
                    underclothes for <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName>, <persName ref="#Mattar">Mattar</persName>,
                    and <persName ref="#Ibrahim">Ibrahim</persName>. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> had bought for <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais
                        Fuli</persName> in <placeName ref="Paris">Paris</placeName> last spring a
                    first class field glass - and has his name put in gilt letters on the case - and
                    I had extra things for <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Mattar">Mattar</persName> and <persName ref="#Ibrahim"
                        >Ibrahim</persName>. The men had - sheep - and I went into town this
                    afternoon <pb n="138"/> to find all the shops closed. Last evening being
                    Christmas night, <persName ref="Bend_Mrs.">Mrs. Bend</persName> and <unclear>the
                        girls</unclear> dined with us. The first dinner of our new cook - and a very
                    good dinner it was - quite admirable - they were quite impressed.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971227" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Dec. 27</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="Monty">Monty</persName> and I paid a hurried visit to Hatoun’s and
                    Parvis’s shops this morning, and hurried back - we got off at 12:30 in a very
                    good wind and reached <placeName ref="#Bedrashein">Bedrashein</placeName> in
                    less than 3 hours - have dawdelled away much time in fear of our big sail, which
                    proves too big. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has decided
                    to have it made smaller tomorrow, and to kill two birds with one stone by
                    visiting <placeName ref="#Sakkarah">Sakkarah</placeName>, which we did not
                    intend doing until we come down - as I am not now very fit. So <persName
                        ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName> took the 6 o’clock train to <placeName
                        ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> to fetch the sail makers. Cold.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971218" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 18.</title></p>
                <p>They all made an early start for <placeName ref="#Sakkarah">Sakkarah</placeName>
                    this morning - even <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Amilie">Amilie</persName>. I sent <persName ref="#Amilie"
                        >Amilie</persName> as she had never seen it. They all condoled with me on
                    going off, because I was to be left all alone for the day. But after they got
                    away, I smiled and began to enjoy myself! I mended 2 sponge bags - I explored
                    the little store closet under the stairs, arranged and condensed it - put in
                    order the linen closet and my dress closet, re-arranged <persName ref="#Abdul"
                        >Abdul’s</persName> sideboard for him - the bookcase and all the small
                    things - and after a delicious little lunch, with <persName ref="#Abdul"
                        >Abdul</persName> waiting upon me so quietly and faithfully, I took a book
                    and stretch myself upon the divan in the saloon - where I could neither read or
                    sleep <pb n="139"/> because of enjoying the delicious quiet and repose. The
                    first quiet day I have had for almost a year! I enjoyed the occasional bursts of
                    sunshine through the window, across the mossy green carpet, and the big green
                    chair, making a delicate harmony with the line of young wheat growing on the
                    bank - and the palms tossing their branches above. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Rameses">Rameses</name> came up from <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                        >Cairo</placeName> - on which are <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mr">Mr. and Mrs.
                        Whitehead</persName> - and <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mr">Mr. W.</persName>
                    came over to make me a little visit - reporting <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mrs"
                        >Mrs. W.</persName> afraid to venture out in the cold, and only 35
                    passengers. I asked him why he had not gone to see wonderful <placeName
                        ref="#Sakkarah">Sakkarah</placeName>, and he said “he thought he would get
                    enough of temples and pyramids before he got out of Egypt”! Our people came back
                    about 5, raving about their delicious day. We find our little stoves most
                    comfortable and cheerful - we could hardly exist without them. All day long, the
                    big sail has been stretched on shore, with the men ripping and cutting - now she
                    is pronounced to be all right and is again in place on the boom. Every inch of
                    the boat outside and in, was painted last summer, in admirable fashion, making a
                    great improvement in the <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>. I never
                    saw more beautiful paint - the tints so perfect - and the finish like porcelain.
                    We seem now to be quite perfect.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971229" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday - Dec. 29.</title></p>
                <p>The day began cold, with a south wind which changed to north about one o’clock -
                    and we sailed away until 4 P.M. when it veered to west, and we tied up, after
                    having made 8 miles - the sail proves quite perfect.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="140"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971230" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Dec. 30. Thursday.</title></p>
                <p>We made an early start this morning before 7 - the wind good and strengthening
                    all the time - at 1 o’clock we were driven on a sand bank - but pulled to the
                    anchor and got away and sailed finely until about 6 P.M. when we stopped for the
                    night near <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName>, having made about 33 miles
                    - very cold and windy. We are going to have a hard time on the river this year I
                    fear, as it is so uncommonly low - and the current is running so strong. It has
                    rained from time to time today.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18971231" type="Entry">
                <p><title>31 Dec. Friday evening.</title></p>
                <p>We have been sitting about since dinner, talking and reading. I have been reading
                    aloud in Sayce’s “Egypt of the Hebrews” then <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> read from “In Memoriam”. It is very still and quiet -
                    not a sound to be heard outside - the men all asleep - not a sound - and I
                    intend as I always do, to see the old year out. It is cold - but no wind - we
                    had a great surprise this morning. I knew it was very cold, and <persName
                        ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> had come into my room and lighted my
                    little stove, which made a cheerful light in my darkened room, it being hardly
                    past 7 o’clock - when I heard <persName ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> asking if
                    he could come in, that he had something to show me. So in he came, wrapped in
                    his bathrobe with his hat on, and a little tray in his hand on which was heaped
                    a little pile of snow, or more strictly speaking frost! He said the decks were
                    white with it - that there was a dense fog, and the extreme cold had turned it
                    to snow, wherever it touched. All the men were tremendously impressed - only one
                    or two every having seen anything of the kind before.</p>


                <pb n="141"/>
                <p>It took the sun a long time to dissipate the fog - but at last the clearest and
                    brightest day we have had since we came, evolved itself - and after a general
                    cleaning and rubbing and drying of the decks, we sailed away in a very light
                    wind which continued until nearly 8 o’clock - when we tied up. I have been on
                    deck most of the time - air so delicious -dry - and with a real snap of cold in
                    it. We have made about 12 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980101" type="Entry">
                <p><title>January 1 - 1898.</title></p>
                <p>The New Year dawned cold and dark - when I first looked out of my window, the
                    river was as smooth as a mirror, and the clouds looked like snow. It was not
                    until after 9 o’clock that the sun came out, and shown fitfully and dimly. The
                    wind too was fitful - however we sailed as we could until nearly 7 o’clock - the
                    moon being half full. Passed <placeName ref="#Beni_Suef">Beni soef</placeName>
                    about noon and cannot be far from <persName ref="#Fashon">Fashon</persName>
                    tonight - making about 11 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980102" type="Entry">
                <p><title>2d Sunday after Christmas. Jan. 2.</title></p>
                <p>Have made 48 miles 0 and are now lying 2 miles south of <placeName
                        ref="#Sheik_Fadl">Sheik Fadl</placeName>. Still cold. The other afternoon I
                    saw a large fox running along the waters edge - apparently disturbed at our
                    nearness. However by the time <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> got
                    his gun out he disappeared over the bank.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="142"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980103" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Jan. 3. Monday.</title></p>
                <p>We made 30 miles - starting at 7:30 and pulled up at <placeName ref="#Minieh"
                        >Minieh</placeName> at one o’clock. All of the rest went into the town for
                    our mail and some shopping. The wind was so strong and the dust and sand so
                    filled the air, that I stopped at home. Even the deck was impossible - and the
                    wind increasing we have not moved.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980104" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday. Jan. 4.</title></p>
                <p>Started soon after 6:30 this A.M. a clear, brilliant morning, the wind good
                    increasing to strong. We sailed splendidly without a break until 6 o’clock or
                    thereabouts, making 55-1/2 miles. The air was softer, and the sun bright, the
                    afternoon delicious. I was on deck from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980105" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday. 5 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>Still cold, with light north wind growing stronger - we made 6 miles, when in the
                    first great turn of the beginning of the <geogName ref="#Abu_Fedah_Mts">Abufedah
                        Mts.</geogName> we were obliged to furl our sail and anchor. The steamer
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Tewfik">Tewfik</name>, with <persName
                        ref="#Vanderbilt_Cornelius">Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt</persName> passed up -
                    giving us a salute as he passed. We tracked later, for about a mile to a good
                    place for the night. Passed <placeName ref="#Manfalout">Manfalout</placeName>
                    about noon, and altogether made 9 miles. Cold with a little rain this
                    evening.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="143"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980106" type="Entry">
                <p><title>6 Jan. Thursday.</title></p>
                <p>A cold day - the morning very quiet until nearly noon, when we pulled up our
                    stakes and started among the crowd of working boats, only to find we had left
                    one of our sailors on shore, who had been sent to find some vegetables. An
                    exciting time for a few moments, when we finally got under way with a fair wind
                    increasing to strong - and we did some splendid and difficult sailing - it was
                    like yachting. We saw the minarets of <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>
                    all the afternoon appear and disappear - but as usual seemed to get no nearer to
                    them. After we tied up, the wind began to blow, and rain poured smartly for half
                    an hour. The sailors made a great row on deck, getting the furniture together
                    and covered and the awnings up. Made 18 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980107" type="Entry">
                <p><title>7 Jan. Friday.</title></p>
                <p>A beautiful day - almost warm - and almost like <country ref="#Egypt"
                        >Egypt</country>. Light winds and some tracking brought us early in the
                    afternoon to <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName>. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Nitassis">Nitassis</name> passed down. Got a big mail of papers and
                    letters - and had, for the first time some positive information in regard to the
                    sudden move of troops from <country ref="#Cairo">Cairo</country> to <placeName
                        ref="#Sudan">the Sudan</placeName>. It was at first reported that the
                    emergency was so great, that most of <persName ref="#Cook_Thomas"
                        >Cook’s</persName> steamers would be required, as he has the contract with
                    Government to carry troops - but it seems that was an exaggeration. They go by
                    rail to <placeName ref="#Nag_Hammadi">Nag Hamadi</placeName>, and then are
                    shipped. An officer told <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    today, that the finishing of the railway between <placeName ref="#Nag_Hammadi"
                        >Nag Hamadi</placeName> and <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>, was
                    to be pushed on to rapid finish. <persName ref="#Buttles_Nettie"
                        >Nettie</persName> and I took a drive into <placeName ref="#Asyut"
                        >Assiut</placeName> this afternoon. A <pb n="144"/> very large and growing
                    town - especially the European quarter - near the river, and <placeName
                        ref="#American_Mission_College">American Mission College</placeName>. We
                    waited some time at the gate of a garden, where <persName ref="#Abdul"
                        >Abdul</persName>,and a kind of rais belonging to the carriage, a mere
                    bundle of rags, with a smiling yellow face above, who seemed to be the elder
                    brother of the two wretched little horses, went to get me some flowers. We
                    thought we had never seen so many varieties of humanity as passed and repassed
                    continually - with many it would have been hard from appearance to have drawn
                    the line between the beast and the human. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Rameses The Third">The Ramesis the Third</name> came to the landing
                    near us, and a small Gage steamer, with <persName ref="#Henri_de Bourbon_Prince"
                        >Prince Henri de Bourbon</persName> and party on board. We are having
                    splendid nights - the moon just full. Made 10 miles today.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980108" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Assiut. 8 Jan. Saturday.</title></p>
                <p>Still here - having devoted the day to a general cleaning - to getting something
                    done to our oven - to doing a big wash - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> took
                    another drive this morning - into the town, and making the circuit of it. It is
                    a holiday - being the 8th anniversary of the accession of the Khodive. The town
                    was therefore crowded - and we drove through solid masses of turbaned humanity.
                    We had no one with us but our driver - but we did not meet with the slightess
                    rudeness - though it was as well perhaps that we did not understand all that was
                    said to us. The moon makes such beauty, rising above the splendid palm and scent
                    groves, that line the shore of the river opposite Assiut.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="145"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980109" type="Entry">
                <p><title>First Sunday after the Epiphany. 9th Jan.</title></p>
                <p>We have had the warmest day of the year - and a very still one too - but have
                    made <placeName ref="#Abutig">Aboutig</placeName> where we are not lying, 15
                    miles from <placeName ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName> - <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName> walked into the town, although it was almost dark when we
                    tied up - and said it seemed very clean and charming. It always looks inviting,
                    with its 2 handsome twin minarets showing above the trees. Made 15 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980110" type="Entry">
                <p><title>10 Jan. Monday.</title></p>
                <p>We had slipped along under light winds today, until we are within a short
                    distance of <placeName ref="#Tahtah">Tahtah</placeName>, and suppose we have
                    made 25 miles. Warmer - and splendid moonlight nights.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980111" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, 11 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>We are lying at <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - after a fine day of
                    difficult sailing - beginning about 10 o’clock. Very difficult bends of the
                    river - we turn and turn upon our path - made 28 miles. <placeName ref="#Sohag"
                        >Sohag</placeName> is on a hight bank with its handsome river front with its
                    very good houses; looks quite unique for <country ref="#Egypt">Egypt</country>.
                    We will wait here for the man who has been sent up from <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                        >Cairo</placeName>, with the new wash bowl for my room. <persName
                        ref="#Akmim">Akmin</persName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980112" type="Entry">
                <p><title>12 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>We came the 5 miles from <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> this
                    afternoon, having waited all day for the plumber to finish his work in my room.
                    We went for a <pb n="146"/> walk after breakfast, and seeing a little dahabeah
                    flying the American flag, and hearing from one of our sailors that it was a
                    “Hakim”, we thought it might be some of the people of the American Mission
                    School, as we know they sometimes go out in this way - and wishing much to talk
                    to them, we went down to call. But we found the “Hakim” was a dentist with a
                    very Hebrew name, and his card bore the title of dentist to the Khodive.
                    Theodore, asked him if he would like to see our boat, thereupon he came,
                    bringing with him a <unclear>most respectable citizen</unclear> of <placeName
                        ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName>, who he introduced as one of the “old
                    Egyptian nobles” - whatever that might be. He then asked if he could bring the
                    Mudir of the district in the afternoon - and about 3 o’clock they came, in some
                    state. <persName ref="#Sohag_Mudir">The Mudir</persName> was very well dressed
                    in European fashion - and spoke admirable English - had a pleasant polished
                    manner - and seemed much interested in the boat.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980113" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Belliana, 13 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>Had a good sailing day - the wind very strong at times. Struck a sand bank
                    sharply - and had some difficulty in getting off. Passed <placeName
                        ref="#Monshieh">Monshieh</placeName> and <placeName ref="#Girgeh"
                        >Girgeh</placeName> - the day very cold - with high wind.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980114" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Nag Mamadi. 14 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>A fine warm day - wind light - reached this place at 4 o’clock - found the R.R.
                    bridge closed - and after pulling up, heard that it would not open again today.
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and the rest went for a
                    walk - and met and talked with the Engineer of the bridge - an Englishman - who
                        <pb n="147"/> said it was entirely in the hands of the Government lately -
                    as trains were running all the times, carrying troops to <placeName ref="#Aswan"
                        >Assouan</placeName> and the front. They saw a large barge with horses, and
                    about 5 camels, and ammunition cars, waiting for the Lancashire regiment that
                    comes up tomorrow. The bridge opens at 6 in the morning, and we hope to get
                    through at once. Made 18 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980115" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, 15 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>Got through the bridge this morning at 8 o’clock by towing - arrangements there
                    very good. A strong north wind was too much for us, and we had to stop sailing
                    long before noon, and tied up to the bank. About half past 5 we started and
                    slowly moved along in a light wind for 2 miles, when we stopped - judging we had
                    made ruing the day 10 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980116" type="Entry">
                <p><title>2d Sunday after Epiphany. 16 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>High wind in morning - laid up most of the day - sailed at 4 o’clock for an hour
                    some 3 miles below <placeName ref="#Keneh">Keneh</placeName> - warm and
                    pleasant. Made 17 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980117" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, 17 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>Started early - light wind and tracking made <placeName ref="#Denderah"
                        >Denderah</placeName> at noon. The day warm and delicious. Rode out to
                        <unclear>the Temple</unclear> after lunch. My new saddle a great success. We
                    had excellent donkeys and enjoyed the ride immensely. <persName
                        ref="#Petrie_Flinders">Flinders Petrie</persName> is excavating near
                        <placeName ref="#Denderah">Denderah</placeName>. We could see <pb n="148"/>
                    the dust of the excavations - and the comfortable looking house he has built
                    there. As we reached <geogName ref="#Nile_River">the river</geogName> again, we
                    saw the <name type="boat" ref="#Isis">Isis</name> with an English flag passing -
                    and a few moments after, the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name> appeared,
                    and we are lying just behind her tonight 5 miles above Keneh.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980118" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, 18 Jan. Luxor.</title></p>
                <p>We reached <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> at 6:30 this evening, having
                    made a fine run of 44 miles. A rather exciting day too, as the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Isis">Isis</name> was just ahead, the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                        >Alma</name> at our heels, and the <name type="boat" ref="#Gazelle"
                        >Gazelle</name> behind her. The wind was so light, it was hardly a zephyr
                    and we stole along by the town like a ghost - and came into our old place just
                    under the <placeName ref="#Insinger_House">Castle</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980119" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, 19 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>We have a very good plan to lie - in a little cove just under the <placeName
                        ref="#Insinger_House">Castle</placeName> - where no one can pull in ahead of
                    us. The <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name> lies, above, around the corner
                    - and the <name type="boat" ref="#Gazelle">Gazelle</name> behind us. The <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Zenet-el_Nil">Zenet-el Nil</name>, with her owner
                        <persName ref="#Goliniescheff_M">M. Goliniescheff</persName>, <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Hyskos">the Hyksos</name>, with <persName
                        ref="#Shephard_Mr">the Shephards</persName> - and the Gamilla flying the
                    German flag, are in port. <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> looks cold,
                    and quiet <unclear>Achmed</unclear> was waiting with his donkeys this morning,
                    and we had just started, when we met <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mr"
                        >Mr.</persName> and <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mrs">Mrs. Whitehead</persName>
                    who are on the <name type="boat" ref="#Ramesis">Ramesis</name>, walking down to
                    see us. Se we dismounted and walked back with them - as <persName
                        ref="#Whitehead_Mrs">Mrs. W.</persName> had not seen the boat, and they were
                    to leave for <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, at noon. Then we walked
                    back to the <placeName ref="#Luxor_Hotel">Luxor Hotel</placeName> with them -
                    there mounted our donkeys, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName>, as <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName> were visiting the <placeName ref="#Luxor_Temple"
                        >Luxor</placeName></p>
                <pb n="149"/>
                <p>temple. We rode out towards <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnak</placeName>, but it
                    was too late to visit the temples, and stopping for a moment at <placeName
                        ref="#Luxor_Hotel">the Hotel</placeName>, we got home just in time for
                    lunch. I stayed at home in the afternoon - enjoying our delightful deck, and the
                    matchless and unique view across the stretch of <geogName ref="#Nile_River">the
                        river</geogName>, and the plain beyond, of the mountains. All day, <geogName
                        ref="#Nile_River">the river</geogName> has been so smooth, that the
                    mountains with their soft, yellow pink have been reflected in it. <persName
                        ref="#Stokes_James">Mr. James Stokes</persName> called late in the
                    afternoon. He is one of the unfortunate passengers on the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Rameses_the_Great">Rameses the Great</name> who were unexpectedly
                    disembarked <placeName ref="#Luxor">here</placeName> for several days, while the
                    steamer was ordered forward to pull off some barges aground, full of stores and
                    ammunition for the army, and to tow them to <placeName ref="#Aswan"
                        >Assouan</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980120" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, 20 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>This afternoon we all went to the Races - which were sufficiently amusing - saw
                    the <persName ref="#Vanderbilt_Cornelius">Vanderbilts</persName> who are here on
                    their steamer the <name type="boat" ref="#Tewfik">“Tewfik”</name> and met
                    unexpectedly <persName ref="#Florence_Taylor">Florence Taylor</persName> - who
                    with <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">her mother</persName> are up <geogName
                        ref="#Nile_River">the river</geogName> with the <persName
                        ref="#Thubron_Ernest">Thubrons</persName> in the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Indiana">Indiana</name>, of the Anglo-American line. They ( the
                        <persName ref="#Taylor_Mrs">Taylors</persName>) came afterwards to
                        <unclear>the boat</unclear>, with <persName ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John
                        Scott</persName>, and we asked <persName ref="Taylor_Mrs">Mrs. T. and
                        Florence</persName> to come back and dine with us - which they did, we
                    sending the felucca for them. They were enchanted with our excellent dinner,
                    poor starved things - a merry evening. They <corr>sail</corr> for <placeName
                        ref="#Nice">Nice</placeName>, Feb. 12.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980121" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, 21 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>A delightful afternoon at <placeName ref="#Medinet_Habu_Temple">Medinet
                        Habu</placeName>. The temple always so <pb n="150"/> interesting is now
                    swept and almost garnished - and completely excavated.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980122" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, 22 Jan.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName> went to <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnac</placeName> this
                    morning - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> in the felucca to the <placeName
                        ref="#Germam_Consulate">German Cousuls</placeName>, to see
                        <unclear>his</unclear> antiquities. In the afternoon we stayed at home for a
                    quiet reading on deck, and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> went to <placeName
                        ref="#Deir_el-Bahari">Der-el-Bahri</placeName> - the air misty - and slight
                    clouds everywhere. Late in the afternoon we went to return a visit to the
                        <persName ref="Hysko_Mr">Hyksos</persName> - and also to call on the
                        <unclear>ladies</unclear> (4 of them) on the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                        >Alma</name>. <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName>,
                    whom I was very anxious to meet is one of them - and we fell to talking at once
                    on the Egypt Exploration Society’s affairs.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980123" type="Entry">
                <p><title>3d Sunday after Epiphany. 23 Jan.</title></p>
                <p>This afternoon <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName>
                    went up to the <placeName ref="Insinger_House">Castle</placeName> to call - and
                    after we got home, <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Morton_Miss">Miss Morton</persName> came to tea - and young
                        <persName ref="#Cutting">Cutting</persName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980124" type="Entry">
                <p><title>24 Jan. Monday.</title></p>
                <p>This morning <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> rode to <placeName ref="#Karnak"
                        >Carnac</placeName> - but unfortunately forgot our tickets and came home -
                    stopping at the <placeName ref="#American_Mission">American Mission book
                        store</placeName>, for the new <persName ref="#Baedeker_Karl"
                        >Baedeker</persName> - <persName ref="#Hunhatt_Mr">Mr. and Mrs.
                        Huhatt</persName> came to tea - and <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss
                        Broderick</persName> and <persName ref="Morton_Miss">Miss Morton</persName>
                    to dinner. A pleasant evening. Ramadan began today.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="151"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980125" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Jan. 25. Tuesday.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Insinger_Mr">M. and Mme. Insinger</persName> came this afternoon,
                    and then sent down some beautiful flowers - <persName ref="#Dickson_Miss">Miss
                        Dickson</persName> and <persName ref="#Kilburn_Miss">Miss Kilburn</persName>
                    from the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name> came to tea.
                        <corr>They</corr> start for <placeName ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName>
                    tomorrow morning.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980126" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Jan. 26. Wednesday.</title></p>
                <p>A cold wind blowing all day - <persName ref="#Hunhatt_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName>
                    came to play chess with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and
                    to stay to luncheon - after luncheon, as we were having coffee, <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> came in, having just
                    arrived from <placeName ref="#El_Kab">El-Kab</placeName> with <persName
                        ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John Scott</persName> in his steamer. A pleasant
                    visit - he telling about his new excavations at <placeName ref="#Kom_el_Ahmar"
                        >Kom el-Ahmar</placeName>, opposite <placeName ref="#El_Kab"
                        >El-Kab</placeName>, where they are finding tombs of great antiquity. He
                    described a hawk’s head and body in bronze, of finest workmanship. He has come
                    for 2 days at <placeName ref="El_Bahari">El-Bahari</placeName>. This evening
                    there is a real tempest going on - and additional ropes have been put out to the
                    anchors - and it is cold.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980127" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 27.</title></p>
                <p>A great blow last night - I never knew a harder one here - and for a long time I
                    could not sleep. <persName ref="#Hunhatt_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName> again came to
                    play chess - <persName ref="#Buttles_Nettie">Nettie</persName> and I never put
                    our heads out of the boat. All the canvass and awnings had to come down last
                    night - <persName ref="#Shephard_Miss">Miss Shephard</persName> and her friend
                    came to tea. We shall be off tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Aswan"
                        >Assouan</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="152"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980128" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Jan. 28.</title></p>
                <p>We got away about 9 this morning - but almost immediately the wind grew so strong
                    that we soon took to the bank, and stayed until late in the afternoon - when we
                    again started and made <placeName ref="#Hermonthis">Erment</placeName> about
                    dark. Cold.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980129" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 29.</title></p>
                <p>Began tracking this morning at 8 - until we stopped at the <unclear>Cook
                        landing</unclear> to get the men we had sent off for milk and fruit. Then
                    went on tracking for about 2 miles, and at noon began sailing, and brought up
                    tonight at 6:30 5 miles above <placeName ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> - having
                    made 30 miles. A beautiful sail all the afternoon - part of the time in a crowd
                    of gyassas, laden rails for the railway in the south - some of them with cattle.
                    I was on deck all day - most lovely sunset effects - warmer, though cold
                    enough.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980130" type="Entry">
                <p><title>4th Sunday after Epiphany. Jan. 30. Silsileh.</title></p>
                <p>We have had a beautiful sailing day - and have made 52 miles. Yesterday we left
                    the <name type="boat" ref="#Gamilla">“Gamilla”</name> lying at <placeName
                        ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> - soon after starting this morning we found
                    her following us - and she is now lying ahead of us, having arrived soon after
                    we did. Passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Gazelle">“Gazelle”</name> lying by.
                    Passed <placeName ref="#El_Kab">El-Kab</placeName> about 11 o’clock and
                        <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> at one o’clock - and pulled up
                    beyond <placeName ref="#Gebel_el_Silsila">Silsileh</placeName> at 6 o’clock. It
                    has been warmer today, and is milder tonight. I have been on deck most of the
                    day - such lovely colouring - and a sunset of of every colour of the rainbow -
                    etherially delicate. Our moon is <pb n="153"/> now well on in her second
                    quarter. The thermometer on my balcony this morning registered 36⁰.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980131" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday. Jan. 31. Assouan.</title></p>
                <p>Started about 8 o’clock, and sailed splendidly all day - arriving at 4:30.
                        <geogName ref="#Nile_River">The river</geogName> was so full of gyssas, all
                    laden with railway materials and army supplies, that the sailing was exciting.
                    Found <placeName ref="Aswan">Assouan</placeName> so crowded with the same, and
                    all the quay near the R.R. station given up to unloading - even <unclear>Cook’s
                        landing stage</unclear> has been moved down by the barracks to avoid the
                    noise and bustle. We did not know at first where we could land - but at last
                    feeling our way along <geogName ref="#Elephantine_Island"
                    >Elephantine</geogName>, we passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                    >Alma</name>, and then the <name type="boat" ref="#Pocahantus">Pocahantus</name>
                    - and pulled in behind the <name type="boat" ref="#Zenet_el_Nil"
                        >Zenet-el-Nil</name>, at the very beginning of the little sand gesireh -
                    which is now indeed a very considerable island, so low is the river. However the
                    bank is green with young wheat, and splendid palms above - and we congratulated
                    ourselves, in spite of the fact that the <name type="boat" ref="#Osiris"
                        >Osiris</name> lies beyond the <name type="boat" ref="#Zenet_el_nil"
                        >Zenet</name> - - then a great crowd of gyassas - then the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Isis">Isis</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Gazelle">Gazelle</name>
                    and then the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>. Much warmer.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980201" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 1st.</title></p>
                <p>Went over to the town this morning, and after sending a telegram, and getting our
                    mail, we walked along the now really handsome quay, to the beginning of the
                    barracks - where we found a new building - a Catholic Church and School - we
                    walked into the Church, new and clean, and very good, with its marble floor, and
                    arched roof - and sat down to <pb n="154"/> rest. Then to <unclear>the
                        Hotel</unclear> to read the dispatches - I have never seen <placeName
                        ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> so busy - such crowds of boats, and
                    business of unloading - such extraordinary crowds - much black, black faces. The
                    long, well built quay now is really handsome - and many good new buildings. What
                    a change from 10 years ago! To the <placeName ref="#Grenfell_Tombs">Grenfell
                        tombs</placeName> - I <corr>am</corr> waiting for the rest to clamber up and
                    down, in the felucca with my book.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980202" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 2d.</title></p>
                <p>This morning <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Morton_Miss">Miss Morton</persName> came for a visit, and
                    invited <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeannette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">me</persName> to dine on Friday evening. Then we went
                    across the river to the bazaar. All the things looked rather tame to me. Met a
                    whole procession of military camels - this afternoon <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> called - and as <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName> were going for a drive, he asked <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >me</persName> to come to tea. So when the felucca came back from the other
                    side, we went to the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> - and had a
                    pleasant visit -tea on deck - then down stairs to see his room, old fashioned
                    boat - 22 ft. wide - while we are only 17-1/2. His saloon furnished in yellow
                    brocatelle seemed enormous. We saw some good antiquities - and he showed us in
                    the French Expedition book, the pictures of the temples on <geogName
                        ref="Elephantine_Island">Elephantine</geogName> which were destroyed by
                        <persName ref="Muhammed_Ali">Mohamet Ali</persName> to build a palace across
                    the river, of which now no fragments remain. Invited <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof. Sayce</persName> to dine on Saturday.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980203" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 3d.</title></p>
                <p>To <placeName ref="#Philae">Philae</placeName> this morning - <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName>, with <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> in the train at
                    9 o’clock. Found all the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name> party at the
                    station going too. The <pb n="155"/> station is rather difficult to get to now,
                    so encumbered is all the territory around with military stores - and with
                    railway materials waiting shipment for the <placeName ref="Sudan"
                        >Soudan</placeName> A jolting, rattling three quarters of an hour brought us
                    to <placeName ref="Shellal">Shellal</placeName> - where there is a military
                    encampment and more supplies - and steamers and barges for shipping them. I
                    found <persName ref="#Yemma">Little Yemma</persName> waiting at the <placeName
                        ref="#Philae">Philae landing</placeName> - and he soon produced the
                    delightful little <persName ref="#Dendowi">Dendowi</persName>, not much changed
                    or grown. Found <persName ref="Newman_Mr_Mrs">Mr. and Mrs. Newman</persName> in
                    the long colannade - he painting as usual, and looking very well, both very kind
                    and hospitable, and asked us down to their boat for coffee, and to see his
                    Japanese sketches. After luncheon <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="Andrews_Emma">I</persName> went down
                    - and spent a very pleasant hour. Home in a cataract boat, bring <persName
                        ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Dickson_Miss">Miss Dickson</persName> with us. It was more exciting
                    this descent than I have ever known it. I suppose because the water is lower
                    than usual.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980204" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday Feb. 4.</title></p>
                <p>Very warm all day - and tired with my expedition of yesterday I stayed at home
                    all day. The rest went off late in the afternoon for a row around the island,
                    and came home complaining of the heat. <persName ref="Jeanette_Buttles"
                        >Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> went to
                    dine with <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> on the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name> - and had a charming evening - with much
                    music. <persName ref="#Kilburn_Miss">Miss Kilburn</persName> playing the violin
                    admirable. The row down to their boat, and back again to ours in the wonderful
                    moon-light was delightful.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="156"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980205" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 5.</title></p>
                <p>At home all day until the afternoon, when I went with the rest in the felucca in
                    the mountain of the <placeName ref="#Coptic_Dor">Coptic Dor</placeName>. I sat
                    in the boat with my book, while the rest climbed through the hot sand, and found
                    the ruined convent very interesting. <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr.
                        Sayce</persName> dined with us. He starts down tomorrow.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980206" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday. Septuagesima. Feb. 6.</title></p>
                <p>It was so warm this morning that we none of us felt energetic and <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> proposed that we should sail up to
                    the cataract, and get out on one of the islands. It was not much of a sail, as
                    there was so little wind. But on coming to the first rapid water, we stopped at
                    the nearest island of rock and sand, and walked about on the clean, hard sand,
                    rifted over and over by the wind - and broken by huge masses of lovely rose
                    granite. The <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> and the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Zenet_el-Nil">Zenet el-Nil</name> started down that
                    afternoon.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980207" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 7.</title></p>
                <p>Warm and delightful all day. Did nothing. All the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                        >Alma</name> people came to dine - and after dinner we went on deck to enjoy
                    the wonderful moonlight. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is
                    growing anxious to get down the river, and talks of going on Thursday or
                    Friday.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980208" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 8.</title></p>
                <p>The first thing <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> asked me as
                    he came into breakfast this morning was “do you mind starting down today”. I
                    said “no”, though I am always reluctant to leave <placeName ref="#Aswan"
                        >Assouan</placeName>. So after breakfast we crossed in the felucca to get
                    our mail, pay a last visit to the bazaar, and send some telegrams, when we got
                    back, we found the awnings being taken down and general preparations for the
                    start. I wrote a hurried note to <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss
                        Broderick</persName>, explaining our sudden change of plan - knowing that
                    they had all gone to <placeName ref="#Philae">Philae</placeName> for the day. At
                    12:30 we were off, and a light south wind springing up we came along right
                    merrily - when the wind failed - the head has been intense - 95⁰ on my back
                    balcony - but that has some reflection. Pulled up at 7 o’clock just as a sudden,
                    howling wind came up and made our landing very difficult. Suppose we are about 5
                    miles from <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName>. The air is so
                    charged with sand that the moon can just be seen, wan and almost green - and she
                    has lost a little slice off her. Very warm tonight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980209" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday evening. Feb. 9.</title></p>
                <p>We have only succeeded in making 2 miles today - when the N.W. wind increased so
                    much we were forced to tie up, where we now lie. Since early this morning the
                    same thick dust laden air of last evening - the sun showing dimly through it,
                    like a pale full moon. Walking has been impossible - and we have stayed in
                    doors.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980210" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 10.</title></p>
                <p>We came down the 3 miles to <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> where
                    we now are. I wakened at 5 this morning, and found we were under way. After
                    breakfast we went up to the <placeName ref="#Temple_of_Kom_Ombo"
                        >temple</placeName>, and spent two pleasant hours there - in <pb n="158"/>
                    spite of high wind and the dust of the excavators outside the temple wall. While
                    we were there the <name type="boat" ref="#Horus">“Horus”</name> came up with a
                    tug, flying the English flag, and pulled up ahead of us. The views from the
                    temple plateau are so splendid, I never want to come away. While we were sitting
                    at lunch the <name type="boat" ref="#Cheops">“Cheops”</name> appeared with tug,
                    and English flag - but did not stop - and soon after the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Philetus">“Philetus”</name> came sailing up, also with the English
                    flag - and stopped, and next appeared the <name type="boat" ref="#Miriam"
                        >“Miriam”</name> the Egyptian Museum boat, with a tug, and stopped behind us
                    - so that the settlement is a large one tonight. We had had a pleasant scheme
                    for taking tea in the temple this afternoon - but the high wind, and all the
                    people from the boats made it impossible.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980211" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Feb. 11.</title></p>
                <p>We are at a little mail station on the east bank called <placeName
                        ref="#El_Eglit">El-Eglit</placeName> - about half way between <placeName
                        ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Kombo</placeName> and <geogName ref="#Gebel_Silsileh"
                        >Silsileh</geogName> - and here we have stayed, prisoners of the North wind.
                    The <name type="boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name> is in sight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980212" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 12.</title></p>
                <p>All day at <placeName ref="#El_Eglit">El-Eglit</placeName> - a very stormy night
                    - impossible to move - cold again.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980213" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sexigesina Sunday. Feb. 13.</title></p>
                <p>Started early this morning, and at 12 o’clock made <placeName ref="Silsilis"
                        >Silsilis</placeName>. Tremendous wind - with some difficulty made a landing
                    on the West bank, and visited the different little shrines and Specs. Then got
                    away, but <pb n="159"/> were nearly blown upon the rocks, which make this part
                    of the river dangerous - and dropped our anchor just in time to save us. Finally
                    succeeded in making about a mile where we now are, with the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name> above us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980214" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 14.</title></p>
                <p>Early start - struggled along until after 9 o’clock, when we tied up - wind
                    blowing hard - and still blows. Made 4 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980215" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 15.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 5:30 and stopped before 10 o’clock - wind so strong. <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName> walked along the railway embankment for some distance - but
                    the flying sand and dust we found very disagreeable. Began rowing about 7
                    o’clock with the wind falling - and rowed until 8:30. We have seen the zodiacal
                    light for a long time.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980216" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 16.</title></p>
                <p>Began rowing at 6 o’clock - I looked out of my window, and saw a smooth water, a
                    rosy, golden flush of dawn, and a waning moon high in the sky, reflected in the
                    water. Brought up at <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfou</placeName> at 8 o’clock - and
                    found the <name type="boat" ref="#Mena">Mena</name> (Cook’s boat) with <persName
                        ref="Hay_Col_John">Col. John Hay</persName>, our Minister at London, and his
                    party - and 2 other boats. Started soon after breakfast for <placeName
                        ref="Temple_of_Edfu">the temple</placeName> - where we stayed about 2 hours,
                    and were back before lunch and off, and have been floating with a little rowing
                    all day until 6:30 when we stopped. We are about 4 miles from <placeName
                        ref="#El_Kab">El Kab</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="160"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980217" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 17.</title></p>
                <p>Reached <placeName ref="#El_Kab">El-Kab</placeName> at 8 o’clock - found the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> lying in front of the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Antah">Antah</name> - and while we were seated at
                    breakfast, <persName ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> came
                    in to see us, and to ask us to come to his boat to see the Sacred Hawk he had
                    found at <placeName ref="#Kom_Al_Ahmar">Kom el-Akmar</placeName>. After
                    breakfast I mounted a donkey, while the rest walked, into the old fortress and
                    amongst its ruins, and then climbed the great wall 30 ft. or more thick, and I
                    dismounted and walked on it - a rare view of desert, and river, and remains of
                    former human habitation. Then we went to <unclear>the Antar</unclear> and saw
                    the head and crown of the splendid hawk - as large as a big apple, of pure gold
                    with a crown of gold 6 in. high, representing the <persName ref="#Osiris"
                        >Osiris</persName> feather crown - with eyes of obsidian - the workmanship
                    fine and spirited. The body which we did not see, is of bronze, and much broken,
                    but can be reconstructed. Then we were shown in the portico of the little house
                    on shore, what is more interesting historically, a kneeling figure in stone,
                    very crude and archaic, what <persName ref="#Somers_Clarke_Mr">Mr.
                        S.-C.</persName> thinks belongs to the prehistoric time - also found at
                        <placeName ref="#Kom_Al_Ahmar">Kom El-Ahmar</placeName>, where <persName
                        ref="#Quibell_Mr">Mr. Quibell</persName> is excavating. In the afternoon we
                    all rode out to the <placeName ref="#Mortuary_Temple_of_Amenhotep_III">little
                        temple of Amenophis III</placeName> in the desert and had tea - we had never
                    seen this pretty and interesting temple which <persName ref="#Somers_Clarke_Mr"
                        >Mr.S.-C.</persName> has illustrated and described. The ride through the
                    desert valley - with the great arid mountains around us, and the evening
                    colours, was something to remember. Evidences of the water courses, which are
                    sometimes fed by the rains in the mountains were interesting. <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName>, and <persName
                        ref="#Somers_Clarke_Mr">Mr. S.-C.</persName> came to dinner - a pleasant
                    evening - talked over the Egypt Exploration Fund Society.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="161"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980218" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday. Feb. 18.</title></p>
                <p>Left <placeName ref="#El_Kab">El-Kab</placeName> at 8 this morning - stopped in a
                    high wind about 11. Made 10 miles - horrid.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980219" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 19.</title></p>
                <p>Reached <placeName ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> at 9 - having rowed since very
                    early in the morning - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> met
                    the American dentist, who gave startling accounts of wind and cold below
                        <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>. Made about 20 miles - and are now
                    at <placeName ref="#Gebelein">Gebelein</placeName>, 13 miles from <placeName
                        ref="Armant">Erment</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980220" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Quinqungesima Sunday, Feb. 20.</title></p>
                <p>A day of hard work at rowing - until about 2 o’clock - this obstinate north wind
                    stopped blowing - and in smooth water in a glory of beautiful colouring we came
                    along, arriving at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> just after dark. We
                    found <name type="boat" ref="#Osiris">the Osiris</name> lying in our old place,
                    and brilliantly illuminated, fizzing rockets and fireworks - so we hope she is
                    going off tomorrow, and we have pulled in just behind her, and will take her
                    place when she goes.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980221" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 21.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> walked into town - went to the <placeName
                        ref="#German_Consulate">German Consuls</placeName> and looked at
                        <unclear>his</unclear> curiosities. Sun warm, and much dirt. <persName
                        ref="#Hunatt_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName> came to play chess with <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Mr">Mr. Davis</persName>, and stayed to lunch. <persName
                        ref="#Insinger_Mr">Mr. Insinger</persName> called.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="162"/>
            <div>
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 22.</title></p>
                <p>We have had up all our flag decorations in honor of the day. <persName
                        ref="#Varley_Mr">Mr. Varley</persName> called. The <persName
                        ref="#Hamilton_Fisk">Hamilton Fisks</persName> just down from <placeName
                        ref="#Aswan">Assouan</placeName> in the steamer came to dine.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980223" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 23.</title></p>
                <p><name type="boat" ref="Olga">The “Olga”</name> with the <persName ref="#Ayer_Mr"
                        >Ayer family</persName> came down this morning and is near us. They came
                    over at once to call. The <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">"Alma"</name> also
                    arrived, and went across to the <placeName ref="#Gezireh">gezireh</placeName> -
                    and they all came over to see us. This afternoon we went over to the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Seura">“Seura”</name><corr>,</corr>
                    <persName ref="#Varley_Mr">Varley’s</persName> boat, to see his Nile sketches.
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> bought the 2 best. Then
                    we went to the <name type="boat" ref="#Hyskos">“Hyksos”</name>, to have tea with
                        <persName ref="#Shepheard_Miss">Miss Shepheard</persName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980224" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 24.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Varley_Mr">Mr. Varley</persName> and <persName ref="#Hooker_Mr"
                        >Mr. Hooker</persName> came over and stayed a long time this morning - and a
                    very pleasant morning it was. We were asked to the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                        >“Alma”</name> for tea, but I did not feel well, and Nettie went alone.
                        <persName ref="#Hunhatt_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt</persName> dined with
                    us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980225" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, 25 Feb.</title></p>
                <p>A quiet morning on deck with my books - it has been hot for days - and grateful
                    the heat is. <persName ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Morton_Miss">Miss Morton</persName> came to tea - and
                        <persName ref="Ayer_Mr">Mr. and Mrs. Ayer, and the daughter</persName> dined
                    with us.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="163"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980226" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 26.</title></p>
                <p><name type="boat" ref="#Istar">“Istar”</name> came in early this morning -
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> went to tea with <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> - and the evening being so
                    radiantly beautiful, we went out rowing all of us - and serenaded the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Alma">“Alma”</name> people.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980227" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, Feb. 27.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> went to church this morning - over to the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Olga">“Olga”</name> for tea this afternoon with
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> - met <persName ref="Fiske_Mr">Mr.
                        Fiske</persName> of Florence and <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr.
                        Sayce</persName> - as the latter had been asked to dine with us this evening
                    we also asked <persName ref="#Fiske_Mr">Mr. Fiske</persName> - and had a
                    charming evening.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980302" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, March 2d.</title></p>
                <p>Have all been occupied with the <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Bend family</persName>,
                    who arrived on the steamer on Monday - they dined with us that night and last
                    night. <corr>Yesterday</corr> we all went to <placeName ref="#Karnak"
                        >Karnak</placeName> in the morning - heat and dust indescribable, the rest
                    went over to <placeName ref="#Medinet_Habu">Medinet Habu</placeName> in the
                    afternoon - I wisely stayed at home. <persName ref="#Fiske_Mr">Mr.
                        Fiske</persName> came to tea. Today all but <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName> and <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">Mr. Bend</persName>, went to the
                        <placeName ref="#Tomb_of_the_Kings">Tombs of the Kings</placeName> - we
                    going over in the afternoon to meet them at <placeName ref="#Deir_el-Bahari">Der
                        el-Bahri</placeName> - first visiting <placeName ref="#Deir_el-Medina">Der
                        el-Medinet</placeName> which I had never before seen - a charming little
                    temple, in its desert gorge - coming home by moonlight - frightful wind and
                    dust.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980303" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, March 3d.</title></p>
                <p>Yesterday the north wind got up early and strong and has blown without cessation
                    all day. I did not go out this morning - <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">Mr.<pb n="164"
                        />Bend</persName> and <persName ref="#Bend_Beatrice">Beatrice</persName> to
                    lunch - all went to the races in the afternoon - afterwards <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName> to tea with <persName ref="#Hunhatt_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Huhatt</persName>, and farewell visits to the <placeName
                        ref="#Insinger_House">Castle</placeName>, and to <persName
                        ref="#Shepheard_Miss"><corr>Miss Shepheard's</corr></persName>. Then
                        <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">the Bends</persName>came to dine, and all went on
                    donkeys to <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnak</placeName> by moonlight, except
                        <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">Mr. Bend</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName>, who had not the courage to face the wind and dust. I have
                    settle many little matters - and we hope to get off tomorrow - <persName
                        ref="#Bend_Mr">the Bends</persName> going off in <unclear>their
                        steamer</unclear> at 5 o’clock for <placeName ref="Aswan"
                        >Assouan</placeName>. All the dahabeahs but ours have gone down.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980304" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday March 4.</title></p>
                <p>We got off this morning at last - but the wind a little dead against us. For a
                    time we thought we would have to tie up at <placeName ref="#Karnak"
                        >Karnak</placeName>, but we have come along in spite of it to within a mile
                    of <placeName ref="#Nagada">Nagada</placeName> - and are lying in the splendid
                    moonlight at a high bank crowned with the finest palm trees I have ever seen.
                    The day fine - not too warm - on deck the whole day.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980405" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, March 5.</title></p>
                <p>The men began rowing at 5 o’clock this morning - and the morning was quiet until
                    about noon when the north wind got up, and still stays up. It is now 9 o’clock -
                    and we are anchored in mid river. The night is as bright as day. We made
                        <placeName ref="#Keneh">Keneh</placeName> at 5 o’clock - and are now only a
                    mile below. The <name type="boat" ref="#Nephtys">“Nephtys”</name> passed us this
                    morning with her tug - and soon after we descried the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Mimi">“Mimi”</name> ahead of us - and found them both lying at
                        <placeName ref="#Dendera">Denderah</placeName>. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Tik">“Tik”</name> at the <placeName ref="#Keneh">Keneh</placeName>
                    landing. The day a little</p>
                <pb n="165"/>
                <p>cool. Three Dahabeahs have passed up today. Two of them flying the American flag.
                    The <name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan">“Manhattan”</name> and the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Queen_of_the_Nile">"Queen of the Nile”</name>, and this
                    evening the <name type="boat" ref="#Stella">“Stella”</name> went up. It is a
                    great year for dahabeahs. Made 25 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980306" type="Entry">
                <p><title>2d. Sunday in Lent. March 6.</title></p>
                <p>We think we have made about 12 miles - since noon the wind has been strong and
                    north - and the fact that the <name type="boat" ref="#Mimi">“Mimi”</name> was so
                    near us, induced our men to work hard in spite of the wind. The night is
                    beautiful.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980307" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 7.</title></p>
                <p>A beautiful quiet day - and we have made 38 miles - no wind, except the lightest
                    breath from the north now and then. Our men have rowed valiantly for 12 hours -
                    and we are now lying about 6 miles from <placeName ref="#Ballianeh"
                        >Ballianeh</placeName>. The <name type="boat" ref="#Mimi">Mimi</name> has
                    been just behind us until 5 o’clock, when she stopped where the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Nephtys">“Nephtys”</name> and <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Istar">“Istar”</name> were lying this side of <placeName
                        ref="#Nagh_Hamadi">Nagh Hamadi</placeName>. We were just in time for the
                    bridge at the latter place - which was just opening as we came up to it, and
                    were the first to come through there being 3 steamers and the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Mimi">“Mimi”</name> - and in spite of <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore’s</persName> nervousness we got quickly and quietly through.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980308" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, March 8.</title></p>
                <p>Arrived at <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> about 9:30 - found the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Olga">Olga</name> and the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Alma">Alma</name> lying near each other. All their people had gone out
                    to <placeName ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName>, and except <persName
                        ref="#Broderick_Miss">Miss Broderick</persName> - who came over at once to
                    see us. We started ourselves in half an hour - the morning being cool and cloudy
                    - and although the 2 hours ride out there even with the worst donkeys in the
                    world, was delightful over that wide cultivated country - the wheat quite grown
                    and bearded - oats well formed, and the air full of blossoming clover - yet the
                    coming home was tiring in the extreme - bad donkey boys, unpleasant, natives,
                    and intolerable donkeys, almost spoiled the lovely face of nature. We could not
                    go to the <placeName ref="#Tomb_of_Osiris">tomb of Osiris</placeName> as no one
                    could tell us where it was. We have been baking bread today for the crew - and
                    get off early tomorrow. <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Mimi">Mimi</name>, and <name type="boat" ref="#Nephtys"
                        >Nephtys</name> all here.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980309" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, March 9.</title></p>
                <p>Began rowing at 5:30 - at 9 o’clock the north wind was so strong we gave it up
                    and went to shore. It blew a gale until 7 o’clock when we dropped down 3 miles
                    to <placeName ref="#Girgeh">Girgeh</placeName> - having made altogether the 8
                    miles between the two places. Passed 2 dahabeahs tonight - supposed to be the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">“Istar”</name> and <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Alma">“Alma”</name>. The air has been so charged with dust, and still
                    is that the sun looked just as the full moon looks tonight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980310" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, March 10.</title></p>
                <p>High wind - made by rowing and drifting about 18 miles - and are very near
                        <placeName ref="#Akmim">Akmim</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980311" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, March 11.</title></p>
                <p>Reached <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> this morning and stopped for
                    the mail. The <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name>
                    <pb n="167"/> just starting out, as we pulled in. We have made about 5 miles
                    below <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> - altogether 12 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980312" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, March 12.</title></p>
                <p>A splendid day - began rowing in a calm at 4:30 A.M. when a gentle south wind
                    came up, and carried us on to our victorious way until we reached <placeName
                        ref="#Asyut">Assiut</placeName> at 7 o’clock P.M. - having made 63 miles.
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Olga">Olga</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Alma"
                        >Alma</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> here. <persName
                        ref="#Ayer_Mr">The Ayers</persName> came over and spent the evening - but I
                    did not see them being very miserable in my bed.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980313" type="Entry">
                <p><title>3d Sunday in Lent. March 13.</title></p>
                <p>Have made 6 miles this day. Left the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name>
                    and <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> at <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Asyut">Assiut</name> looking after inscriptions in the Mountains I
                    suppose. Overtook the <name type="boat" ref="#Olga">Olga</name>, but she has
                    since floated out of sight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980314" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 14.</title></p>
                <p>Another slow day, with north wind. We have passed <placeName ref="#Manfalout"
                        >Manfalout</placeName>, making altogether we think about 22 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980315" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, March 15.</title></p>
                <p>An exasperating day. We started early and rowed around the two great turns
                    between <placeName ref="#Manfalout">Manfalout</placeName> and half way past the
                        <geogName ref="#Gebel_Abou_Feydah_Mts">Gebel Abou Feydah chain</geogName> -
                    and were congratulating ourselves that we were going to pass it, when the north
                    wind became so strong, we had to stop before making the last turn - as these
                    dangerous cliffs come down quite to the <pb n="#168"/> water - and here we are
                    still, with the lights of another dahabeah showing a little above us - we do not
                    know what. Every night now we have 3 or 4 Gaffirs or guards watching us - as
                    this part of the river always has a bad reputation - and there is much
                    excitement now over the sad murder a short time since <unclear>at Maghagah of
                        Lord Cowper’s valet</unclear>, who left the dahabeah for the Post Ofice, and
                    missing his way back, was decoyed it is supposed into the sugar cane. His body
                    was found the same evening robbed - and he had been strangled after a violent
                    struggle. This has made a great stir - especially as two murders of natives in
                    the same vicinity have since taken place. The <name type="boat" ref="#Mimi"
                        >“Mimi”</name> passed us this afternoon in tow of a tug. Made about 8
                    miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980316" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, March 16.</title></p>
                <p>In spite of the wind, we have come bravely along today - and are now just by
                        <placeName ref="#Melawi-el-Arieh">Melawi-el-Arieh</placeName>, having made
                    25 miles. This morning before 7 o’clock the <name type="boat" ref="#Herodotus"
                        >Herodotus</name> in tow passed down - and about 11 o’clock this morning we
                    came upon her sticking tight in the sand. She must have been there a long time
                    and we were just preparing to offer assistance, when she began to start. Too
                    windy to be on deck today until about 4 o’clock when I went up - and we had tea
                    there - and a beautiful sail, or row until dark - passing the end of the
                        <geogName ref="#Abu_Feydah_Mts">Abu Feydah chain</geogName> - with a lovely
                    bank of palm trees - villages - fields - cattle, sheep and the evening air of
                    repose over all. There is a dahabeah just behind us, but too far for us to make
                    her out. She is probably the <name type="boat" ref="#Alma">Alma</name>.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="169"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA1898031" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 17.</title></p>
                <p>Early this morning I was wakened by hearing <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel"
                        >Jones</persName> saying to <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> in the hall that we were passing the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Olga">Olga</name> stuck in the sand, and raising my curtain I saw her
                    plainly - her stern right in the bank and slightly tilted. None of the family
                    visible - and she had the air of having adapted herself to the situation.
                        <persName ref="#Daivs_Theodore">Theodore</persName> sent word to ask if we
                    could help her - but it seems she had been there for more than a day, and there
                    was nothing but a tug - so after stopping a moment we came on. The <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Mimi">Mimi</name> passed us in tow later on - and we
                    floated and rowed making <placeName ref="#Pinieh">Pinieh</placeName> at 6:30,
                    where we stopped for mail. Made 31-1/2 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980318" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Mar. 18.</title></p>
                <p>Started early, <name type="boat" ref="#Mimi">Mimi</name> passed us as we pulled
                    out and a good light wind has prevailed all day and we have come on splendidly.
                    Passed <placeName ref="#Gelassaneh">Gelssaneh</placeName>
                    <placeName ref="#abu_Girgeh">abu Girgeh</placeName>, <placeName ref="#Hurgada"
                        >Haghaha</placeName>, and are now about 2 miles above <placeName
                        ref="#Fasben">Fasben</placeName> having made 62 miles. The river has been
                    very difficult today in several places - we were on the sand for a few minutes -
                    and I cannot imagine how the boats we left behind us can get through - as even
                    we with our light draught find it so difficult. It rained gently for a little
                    while today.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980319" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 19.</title></p>
                <p>Made about 8 miles this morning and got as far as <placeName ref="#Bibeh"
                        >Bibeh</placeName>, when the north wind was so strong we had to drop our
                    anchor to save ourselves <pb n="170"/> from being sent on to the rocky cliffs -
                    and we have not moved since, except as the wind has swayed us. The ominous sky
                    brought the storm just as we had finished dinner. It blew tremendously, and the
                    rain fell in torrents. The boat proved very tight, the only leaks being in my
                    room, where the roof is higher - and at this offset there were several leaks -
                    and towels, cups and bowls were put in requisition. I took a volume of McMasters
                    History of the People of the United States from the bookcases this evening, and
                    chanced upon the interesting and pathetic history of the settlement of
                    Galliopolis in Ohio - which I had never read before.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980320" type="Entry">
                <p><title>4th Sunday in Lent. Mar. 20.</title></p>
                <p>I did not get to bed last night until nearly one o’clock. The storm which seemed
                    to pass away in the evening, burst upon us again after eleven. All the family
                    had gone to bed - so <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> stayed up and again put in use
                    the bowls, cups, and towels. For the first time, I really felt a little afraid
                    as we were lying in the middle of the river - we had 3 anchors down, and the
                    boat tugged at them most unpleasantly. Early this morning we pulled to the
                    anchor to a safer place, and put out our 3 anchors on a little sand island,
                    where we are still lying, the wind having blown great guns all day. The <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Ramses">Ramses</name> passed us early - feeling her way
                    very cautiously indeed. I went on deck for a few moments after tea - but it was
                    too windy to be pleasant - though the air was soft and deliciously full of the
                    fragrance of clover blossoms. Wrote my Sunday letter to <persName
                        ref="#Titus_Mrs">Mrs. Titus</persName> - and one to <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Jennie Buttles</persName> in <placeName
                        ref="#Gambier">Gambier</placeName>. </p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980321" type="Entry">
                <p><pb n="171"/><title>Monday, March 21.</title></p>
                <p>We have had the most exciting day I ever passed <corr>on</corr> the Nile. We
                    began the day early, with a light south wind - and found the river very
                    difficult. About 10 o’clock we descried a Cook Steamer evidently stuck on the
                    sand, ahead of us - and on coming up with her found her to be the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Ammartis">Ammartis</name>, which passed us yesterday. She
                    was surrounded by gyasses, who were relieving her of some of her luggage. Not
                    long after we passed the Steamer <name type="boat" ref="#Shellal"
                    >Shellal</name>, a complete wreck, and partly submerged. She was deserted and in
                    the hands of the wreckers - having stove a hole in her bottom on some
                    unsuspected stones in the river. Half an hour after sitting at luncheon, our
                    boat gave a sudden lurch, and there was a grinding of stones under her bow. We
                    all rushed on forward deck, fearing some real calamity; but examination showed
                    no leak, and we came on our way rejoicing; but it was rather nervous work for
                    awhile. Next we saw one of the large <name type="boat" ref="#Gage_Steamer">Gage
                        steamers</name>, empty, and abandoned, and left tied to the bank, to wait
                    for higher water, so that she could get down the river. Then we came up the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Ammartis">Ammartis</name>, who had got off the sand,
                    and passed us a short time before, transferring her passengers to the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Tewfik">Tewfik</name>, who was sending her to the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Ammartis">Ammartis</name> - the latter drawing less water.
                    So when we found ourselves tonight 6 miles below <placeName ref="#Al_Wasta"
                        >Wasta</placeName> and having made 37 miles, and only touched sand once for
                    a moment, we congratulated ourselves. A beautiful day and evening.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980322" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 22.</title></p>
                <p>We were off this morning in a light south wind, at 6 o’clock. <pb n="172"/> The
                    wind shifted again and again, but at last came gently and steadily from the
                    south, and we came rapidly along reaching <placeName ref="#Badrashin"
                        >Bedrasheen</placeName> at 4 o’clock, and making the last 15 miles from
                    there to <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> or rather <placeName
                        ref="#Giza">Ghizeh</placeName> at 6:30. Here we found the landing place all
                    along in front of <unclear><placeName ref="#Egyptian_Musuem">the
                            Museum</placeName></unclear>, crowded with dahabeahs - and with some
                    difficulty we found a place. I have never seen so beautiful an approach to
                        <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - in the afternoon and evening
                    light, the very picturesque scene of houses and trees at <placeName
                        ref="#Old_Cairo">Old Cairo</placeName>, and the <geogName
                        ref="#Al_Manyal_ar-Rawdah">island of Rhoda</geogName>, dominated by the
                    great Citadel with the dome and slender minarets of the <placeName
                        ref="#Mosque_of_Muhammad_Ali">mosque of Mohamet Ali</placeName> were
                    wonderful.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980323" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 23.</title></p>
                <p>A warm, cloudless day - home all the morning, and driving with <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> this afternoon.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980324" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 24.</title></p>
                <p>At home all day - very hot - high Kamseen wind. <name type="boat" ref="#Istar"
                        >Istar</name> came down tonight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980325" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Mar. 25.</title></p>
                <p>Drove into <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> with <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Nettie">Nettie</persName> in the morning. In the afternoon we
                    had a delicious drive almost quite to the <placeName ref="#Mena_House_Hotel"
                        >Mena House</placeName>. The air so cool - the fields so green. Alas! they
                    are building a trolley line to the <placeName ref="#Pyramids_of_Giza"
                        >Pyramids</placeName> - and the avenue is very changed from what it was the
                    first time I saw it. Now some disease seems to have attacked the lubbek trees
                        <pb n="173"/> and they are rapidly dying, with no apparent effort to
                    replant. Young <persName ref="#Bishop_Courtlandt">Courtlandt Bishop</persName>
                    came to dine - and the <persName ref="#Ayer_Mr">two Ayers, father and
                        son</persName>, came in to call - and told us about their troubles
                    descending - having arrived yesterday morning. She was 2 days on the sand - and
                    got off by employing a windlass and crew of a big gyassa passing. A new moon
                    tonight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980326" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 26.</title></p>
                <p>The wind blew great guns last night - and made such a noise - the water dashing
                    and splashing under the stern, and my very head - and when I wakened this
                    morning, the rain was dashing against my windows. Fortunately it did not rain
                    hard, or last long - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went in
                    town to lunch with the <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">Bends</persName>, and play
                    chess. <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> drove into <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                        >Cairo</placeName> on some necessary affairs, bringing <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> home with us. <persName
                        ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> off riding - weather cool and delightful now.
                    We are quite anxious over the dispatches of the day, from the United States.
                    That <persName ref="#McKinley_William_Pres">Pres. McKinley’s</persName> message
                    says that the <placeName ref="#Maine">Maine</placeName> was destroyed from
                    outside torpedo and that the U.S. had recognized the Cuban insurgents - very
                    disquieting.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980327" type="Entry">
                <p><title>5 Sunday in Lent. Mar. 27.</title></p>
                <p>To <placeName ref="#Egyptian_Museum">the Museum</placeName> this morning.
                        <persName ref="#Varley_Mr">Mr. Varley</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Royal_Judge">Judge Royal</persName>, and <persName ref="#Faviger_Mr"
                        >Mr. Faviger</persName> came to tea and made a long pleasant visit.
                        <persName ref="#Bend_Amy">Amy Bend</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Bishop_Courtlandt">Mr. Bishop</persName> also turned up - and
                        <persName ref="#Bend_Mr">Mr. Bend and the two girls</persName>came to dine.
                        <persName ref="#Bend_Mrs">Mrs. Bend</persName> ill in her bed.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="174"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980328" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Mar. 28.</title></p>
                <p>Very hot all day - home in the morning - and at 5 o’clock in the afternoon
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> drove out to the <placeName
                        ref="#Mena_House_Hotel">Mena House</placeName> and had tea, and home quite
                    late.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980329" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Mar 29.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> spent the
                    morning at <placeName ref="#Egyptian_Museum">the Museum</placeName> -
                    principally in the rooms up stairs - and I came home well tired. Home all
                    afternoon - very hot. <persName ref="#Ayer_James_Dr">Dr. James Ayer</persName>
                    came to dine. Political news from home more reassuring.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980330" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 30.</title></p>
                <p>The hottest day I ever spent on <geogName ref="#Nile_River">the Nile</geogName>.
                    My room, always the coolest on the heat, had a temperature of 80⁰ and the Cabana
                    90⁰. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> drove into town to see <persName
                        ref="#Bend_Mr">the Bends</persName> this morning. Home, and busy this
                    afternoon with preparations for packing.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980331" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Mar. 31.</title></p>
                <p>An uncomfortable day - hot - strong wind - a busy day of packing and dismantling
                    - the last night is always sade.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980401" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, April 1.</title></p>
                <p>Came to the <placeName ref="#Ghesireh_Palace">Ghesireh Palace</placeName> this
                    afternoon - found the grand apartment formerly used by <persName
                        ref="#Pasha_Isma'il">Ismail Pacha</persName> ready for us - the rooms
                    enormous - richly furnished and decorated, the salon and my room looking on the
                    river - and seeming very cool and comfortable this hot night.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980402" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, April 2.</title></p>
                <p>Drove to the dahabeah this morning and then went to <placeName
                        ref="#Egytpian_Museum">the Museum</placeName> - where it was cool and
                    delightful. Coming out the heat was so intense, that even in a covered carriage
                    it seemed really terrifying. Late in the afternoon <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma"
                        >I</persName> drove into town to shops and looked after many things. We keep
                    the enormous windows of our rooms closed from early morning - until seven
                    o’clock at night when they are opened for the cool air - and they admit also
                    mosquitoes and bats.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980403" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, April 3. Palm Sunday.</title></p>
                <p>I have not had the courage to move out of the house until at 6 o’clock, after
                    having had a cup of tea, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> went over to <placeName
                        ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> to pay some farewell visits. In cross the
                    bridge, the reflected heat from the iron at the sides, was like a blast from a
                    furnace. We found <persName ref="#Sandwith_Mrs">Mrs. Sandwith</persName> in the
                    garden with the children - she said the thermometer stood an hour before at
                    97⁰.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980404" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 4.</title></p>
                <p>A farewell visit to the boat this morning, and a visit to <persName
                        ref="#Phillips">Phillips</persName><corr>,</corr> the antiquity
                        dealer<corr>,</corr> in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>
                    afterwards. Very hot - with the same high, hot Khamseen wind we have had for 2
                    days. <persName ref="#Sopher_Mme">Mme. Sopher</persName> came over this
                    afternoon to shampoo our heads. Our last preparations are all made - and we
                    shall be off tomorrow - <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName> came</p>
                <pb n="176"/>
                <p>this evening to see the magnificence of <placeName ref="#Ghesireh_Palace">the
                        Palace</placeName>. It was amusing to see their impressions. <placeName
                        ref="#Hotel_Bristol">Hotel Bristol</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980409" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Rome - Saturday, April 9th.</title></p>
                <p>Arrived last night - after a very good and comfortable voyage in the Rubitine
                    Steamer <name type="boat" ref="#Regina_Margherita">Regina Margherita</name>.
                    Left <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> the morning of Tuesday April 5,
                    early - weather having so entirely changed, that we were cold in driving to the
                    station. <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais Fuli</persName>, <persName ref="#Abdul"
                        >Abdul</persName>,<persName ref="Ibrahim">Ebrahim</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Ibrahim_Hannah">the Cook</persName>, and <persName
                        ref="Dervish_Mohammed">Mohamet Dervish</persName>, and our good <persName
                        ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName>, were all waiting at the station for
                    us. As <persName ref="#Ali_Mohammed_Prince">Prince Mohamet Ali</persName> and
                        <unclear>the wife of the French Minister</unclear> were all going by the
                    same train, there was a very smart gathering of people - especially of red fezs
                    - even <persName ref="#Cromer_Lord">Lord Cromer</persName> was there. <persName
                        ref="Ayer_Mr">The Ayers</persName> also crossed with us. <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Regina_Margherita">The steamer</name> was very clean and comfortable -
                    I had a deck room, with a double bed, so delightful, with a good window by day,
                    and an electric light by night, that I stopped in bed until 5 o’clock of the
                    last day - with my books - and had a beautiful rest. Reached <placeName
                        ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> and landed by 8 o’clock - had breakfast at
                        <placeName ref="Grand_Hotel">the Grand</placeName> - and then a charming
                    drive up the hill and over to <placeName ref="#Posillippo"
                    >Posillipo</placeName>, and then back in time for early lunch, and off for
                        <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> by one o’clock - which we reached
                    for dinner in our pleasant sitting room at 7:30. Found piles of letter waiting.
                    Very serious news as to probably war with <placeName ref="#Spain"
                        >Spain</placeName> - and accounts of the brilliant and decisive battle
                    fought by <persName ref="#Kitchener_Herbert">Kitchener</persName>, the Sirdar in
                    the Soudan - great loss of dervishes. <persName ref="#Mohammed_General"
                        >Mahomet</persName>, the general captured. We have the corresponding rooms,
                    only <pb n="177"/> one storey higher, than those we had last year. Drove to
                        <placeName ref="#St._Peter's_Basilica">St. Peters</placeName> this morning
                    and to <placeName ref="#Villa_Borghese_Gardens">Villa Borghese</placeName> this
                    afternoon. <persName ref="#Anderson_Hendrick">Hendrick Andersen</persName> dined
                    with us - looking well and happy - last night and tonight. This morning to his
                    pleasant studio - and were charmed and astonished at the vigor and originality
                    of his work.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980410" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Easter Sunday, April 10.</title></p>
                <p>Splendid weather, and services at <placeName
                        ref="#Archbasilica_of_St_John_Lateran">St. John of Lateran</placeName> this
                    morning, and <placeName ref="#St_Peter's_Basilica">St. Peters</placeName> in the
                    afternoon - delightful music - and what effects in the <placeName
                        ref="#St_Peter's_Basilica">St. Peters</placeName>! <persName
                        ref="#Bronson_Mrs.">Mrs. and Miss Bronson</persName> to dine with us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980411" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 11.</title></p>
                <p>To the <placeName ref="#Museo_delle_Terme">Museo delle Terme</placeName> this
                    morning with <persName ref="#Anderson_Hendrick">Anderson</persName>. To drive in
                        <placeName ref="#Villa_Borghese_Gardens">the Borhese</placeName> in the
                    afternoon.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980412" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, April 12.</title></p>
                <p><placeName ref="#Vatican_City">Vatican</placeName> with <persName
                        ref="#Anderson_Hendrick">Anderson</persName>. <persName ref="#Whitehead_Mr"
                        >Whiteheads</persName> turned up this evening.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980413" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, April 13.</title></p>
                <p>To the <placeName ref="#Vatican_Museums">Vatican Pinacotheca</placeName> -
                        <persName ref="#House_Mrs">Mrs. House</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Elliot_John">Mr. and Mrs. Elliot</persName> to dinner. <persName
                        ref="Ritcher_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> called - interesting.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980414" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, April 14.</title></p>
                <p>To various churches this morning - to a reception at <persName ref="#Elliot_Mrs"
                            ><corr>Mrs. Elliott's</corr></persName> in the afternoon. <persName
                        ref="Bull_Dr">Dr. Bull</persName> to dine with us. <persName
                        ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> came.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="178"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980415" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, April 15.</title></p>
                <p>To the <placeName ref="#Palazzo_Doria_Pamphilj">Doria Pamfili</placeName> this
                    morning and then to <placeName ref="#Archbasilica_of_St_John_Lateran">the
                        Lateren</placeName> In the afternoon drove in the beautiful <placeName
                        ref="#Villa_Doria_Pamfili">Doria Pamfili gardens</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980416" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, April 16.</title></p>
                <p>Rain all day and in the house. <persName ref="#Ayer_Mr">Mr. Ayer</persName>
                    called.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980417" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, April 17.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> drove out on the <placeName
                        ref="#Appian_Way">Appian way</placeName> this morning - air deliciously warm
                    and soft - but the wind so high and grew so violent we had to have the top of
                    the carriage up - beautiful storm effects on that wide Campagna, with the tops
                    of <unclear><geogName ref="#Appian_Mountains">the Mts.</geogName></unclear>
                    white with snow. <persName ref="#Norman_Mrs">Mrs. Norman</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Mabel">Mabel</persName> came to dine.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980418" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 18.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> have been nosing about in the various shops
                    of an <unclear>old man</unclear> who deals in frames in the <placeName
                        ref="#Via_Gregoriana">Via Gerggoriana</placeName>. There were such beauties,
                    it was hard to decide. Chose one of the best for a mirror to be placed in the
                    hall over the hat table. <persName ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> came
                    to lunch - conversation about <persName ref="#da_Vinci_Leonardo"
                        >Leonardo</persName>, <persName ref="Botticelli_Sandro"
                    >Boticelli</persName>, and other artists, and discussion of various pictures.
                    Then we drove <corr>with</corr> them to visit by appointment the house of
                        <persName ref="#Minghetti_Donna_Laura">Donna Laura Minghetti</persName>, to
                    see the famous <name type="painting" ref="#Portrait_of_a_Girl">Leonardo da
                        Vinci</name>. A charming house, and an even more charming and hospitable
                    hostess - and the beautiful picture was a sensation indeed. <persName
                        ref="#Elliot_Mr">The Elliots</persName> called this evening.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="179"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980419" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, April 19.</title></p>
                <p>With the <unclear>old frame man</unclear> in <placeName ref="#Via Gregoriana">Via
                        Gregoriana</placeName> this morning again and a charming drive, <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Monty"
                        >Monty</persName>, <persName ref="#Anderson_Hendrick">Anderson</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> had in the <placeName
                        ref="#Villa_Doria_Pamphili">Doria Pamphili gardens</placeName> this
                    afternoon. They were not open to the public, but for some reason or other we
                    were allowed to enter, and had all the drives and beautiful avenues to
                    ourselves. <persName ref="#Ayer_Mrs">Mrs. Ayer</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Norman_Mr">the Normans</persName> to tea - and <persName
                        ref="Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> to dinner - and we do not go to
                        <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> tomorrow but the next day -
                    for <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is trying to get a
                    precious picture.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980420" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, April 20.</title></p>
                <p>Miserable weather. Poked into the old frame shop this morning with <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and out in the rain for half an
                    hour with <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> though I did not
                    leave the carriage. <persName ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> to lunch
                    - and then a very exciting afternoon - <persName ref="#Richter_Dr">he</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went off at 3 o’clock in
                    a closed carriage to <placeName ref="#House_of_Minghetti_Donna_Laura">Donna
                        Laura Minghetti’s</placeName> to actually bring home in great secrecy, into
                    our own possession, the incomparable <name type="painting"
                        ref="#Portrait_of_a_Girl">Leonardo</name>, to which we thought it such a
                    privilege only a few days since, to be allowed to see. It is hard to realize
                    that we have actually acquired it, it seems almost as if we have bought
                        <placeName ref="#Vatican_Museums">the Vatican</placeName> or <placeName
                        ref="#St_Peter's_Basilica">St. Peters</placeName>! If we can only get it out
                    of <country ref="#Italy">italy</country> without arousing suspicion! <persName
                        ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. R.</persName> to dinner.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980429" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Hotel Cavour. Milan. April 29.</title></p>
                <p>We have made a great stride on our blessed way home to <persName ref="#Toby"
                        >Toby</persName>
                    <pb n="180"/> and the Reef. <corr>War</corr> having been declared, <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> naturally began to feel uneasy,
                    and to my great satisfaction decided to give up <placeName ref="#Venice"
                        >Venice</placeName>, and go home on the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Kaiser_Wilhelm_der_Grosse">Kaiser der Grosse</name> the 25 May. Sent
                        <persName ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> over to <placeName ref="#Venice"
                        >Venice</placeName> for 3 days there, and picked him up at <placeName
                        ref="#Bologna">Bologne</placeName> yesterday as we came through. I lost all
                    our short stay of a week at <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> - as
                    I took to my bed at once with a sharp attack of influenza and did not leave it
                    until the day we came away. <persName ref="#Baldwin_Dr">Dr. Baldwin</persName>
                    in attendance twice a day. The cold still hangs on - and I feel really
                    shattered. <persName ref="#Anderson_Hendrick">Anderson</persName> came from
                        <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> with <persName ref="#Norman_Mr">the
                        Normans</persName> on Monday - and it was delightful to have him again.
                        <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Castello_Mrs">mrs. Castello</persName> to dine the night before we
                    left and <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> got up for the dinner. I was
                    furious that I could not go with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> to lunch with them, and see their pretty houses, which
                        <persName ref="Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> raved about. It rained
                    all the time we were in <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>, and is
                    still at it, The weather very heavy and discouraging.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980430" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Lucerne - April 30. Hotel National.</title></p>
                <p>A perfect day for that incomparable journey over <geogName ref="Alps">the
                        Alps</geogName> from <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName> here. We seem
                    to have left all the rain behind us. Arrived at 7 o’clock leaving <placeName
                        ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName> at 12:30 and found delightful rooms
                    overlooking the lake.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980501" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, May 1st.</title></p>
                <p>The brilliant sunshine looked into my room this morning and the views across the
                    lake were glorious with the snow capped mountains, and the green hills enclosing
                    the heavenly blue lake. Drove for 2 hours <pb n="181"/> this morning among the
                    hills and around the lake. All the country is full of blossoming cherry trees -
                    meadows gay with flowers - the hum of bees and the song of birds. I heard the
                    nightingales at 4 o’clock this morning. Wrote letters this afternoon and we had
                    tea out on our balcony. Magnificent sunset effects - rosy snow mts. and clouds -
                    reflected in the blue lake!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980502" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, May 2.</title></p>
                <p>Another fine day - walking, driving and hunting over <placeName
                        ref="#Bossards_Antiquity_Shop">Bossards antiquity shop</placeName>. Such a
                    delight to think that next month at this time we ought to be at home - off
                    tomorrow early for <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980504" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Hotel Westminster. Paris, Wednesday, May. 4.</title></p>
                <p>We left <placeName ref="#Lucerne">Lucerne</placeName> yesterday at 7:30 A.M. in
                    clouds and rain, which continued all day - and arrived here at 6 o’clock. Came
                    to our old quarters - most homelike - with the smiling familiar faces of the
                    Concierge and his wife - <persName ref="#Emil">Emil the waiter</persName>, and
                    the kind, deprecating femme de chambre - news of the successful battle at
                        <placeName ref="#Manilla">Manilla</placeName>, and the triumph of <persName
                        ref="#Dewey_George_Commodore">Commodore Dewey</persName>. Poor Spain - I am
                    full of sympathy for the brave <persName
                        ref="#Raineria_Felicitas_Desideria_Henriette_Christina_Maria_Queen">Queen
                        Christina</persName> who has done all she could to rule and direct the
                    troublesome country. Today it has been storming violently, with bursts of
                    alternate sunshine. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> were settling ourselves this morning - and
                    began with gowns and shopping this afternoon. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >She</persName> has gone to the Circus with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Monty">Monty</persName> this
                    evening - and I am keeping our cheerful salon company, with a bright wood
                    fire.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="182"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980514" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Paris May 14.</title></p>
                <p>Since my last entry there has been nothing to write, except curses - deep and
                    loud, against the weather. It has rained every day, persistently and
                    continuously. I have not been out since the 4th, until yesterday, when I drove
                    to <unclear>Paquins</unclear> a few doors off, and back. <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has had a great success with his
                        <name type="painting" ref="#Portrait_of_a_Girl">Leonardo</name>. She was
                    invited to <placeName ref="#The_Louvre">the Louvre</placeName>, and compared
                    with <name type="painting" ref="#The_Mona_Lisa">the Mona Lisa</name> and <name
                        type="painting" ref="#The_Virgin_of_the_Rocks">the Madonna of the
                        rocks</name>. <persName ref="#Braun">Braun</persName> has photographed her
                    magnificently - and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has
                    given him the privilege of selling the photographs. <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> goes back home this morning. <persName
                        ref="#Jones_David">Jones</persName> and <persName ref="#Amilie"
                        >Amilie</persName> take her to the train, she has a compartment in the
                    sleeping car which she does not leave until she reaches <placeName ref="#Pisa"
                        >Pisa</placeName> tomorrow night at 11 o’clock - where <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> meets her, and spends the night,
                    and the have most of the day together there before going back to <placeName
                        ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>. We go at 11 o’clock tomorrow via
                        <placeName ref="#Calais">Calias</placeName> to <placeName ref="#London"
                        >London</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980517" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Hotel Bristol. London. May 17th.</title></p>
                <p>We came over very comfortably from <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> on
                    Sunday - in spite of the rain. Fortunately it held up as we were getting on and
                    off the boat, or it would have gone hard with me, as there is no protection
                    whatever in the way of a roof. I had a nice little cabin, and laid down and
                    slept most of the way - and the sea was smooth. Found our old quarters at this
                    most comfortable of all hotels - and the weather has been good. Shopped a little
                    and drove in <placeName ref="Hyde_Park">the Park</placeName> yesterday and
                    today. <pb n="183"/> This afternoon went with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> around to the <placeName ref="#Burlington_Arts_Club"
                        >Burlington_Arts_Club</placeName> to see the collection of Milanese
                    paintings - quite charming and interesting. Found the photograph of our <name
                        type="painting" ref="#Portrait_of_a_Girl">Leonardo</name> there opposite
                        <name type="painting" ref="#The_Mona_Lisa">the Mona Lisa</name>. We have had
                    visits from the <persName ref="#Farrar_Gaspard">Farrars</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Denbigh_Lord">Denbighs</persName>, <persName ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr.
                        Rathbone</persName> and <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> -
                    all the rest off to the theatre, as they were last night. I do not risk the
                    exposure. <persName ref="#Emmons_Mr">Mr. Emmons</persName> here today - they
                    sail tomorrow on the <name type="boat" ref="#Teutonic">Teutonic</name></p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980522" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, May 22.</title></p>
                <p>The week has been rather quiet. I have <corr>not been</corr> dining out, no
                    theatres or operas - as I do not go out in the evening. <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has been busy doing all of these
                    things - and I scarcely see him, except at breakfast. The weather has been bad -
                    today it is mending. I have had almost a daily drive in <placeName
                        ref="#Hyde_Park">the Park</placeName> - and yesterday <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> lunched with <persName ref="#Denbigh_Lady"
                        >Lady Denbigh</persName> - and met some pleasant people. Tonight <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> dines with <persName
                        ref="#Denbigh_Lord">Lord Denbigh</persName> - a man’s dinner<corr>,</corr>
                    for <persName ref="Denbigh_Lady">Lady D.</persName> has gone down to <placeName
                        ref="#Nuneham_Courtenay">Nuneham</placeName> to her family of 8 children.
                        <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> came early yesterday, and
                    he and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> knocked about to
                    galleries and shops in the morning, and he came to lunch and went with us
                    afterward to the Military Tournament; came back to tea - and went home and
                    dressed, came back and ined, and he and <persName ref="#Davis-Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> had an old fashioned game of chess. I have just got
                    home from a solitary drive in <placeName ref="#Hyde_Park">the
                        <corr>Park</corr></placeName> - having first gone to tea with <persName
                        ref="#Farrer_Miss">Miss Farrer</persName>. <placeName ref="#Hyde_Park">The
                        Park</placeName> lovely, backward as is the season, the trees are well out
                    now, and the thorns beginning to show their flowers. <persName
                        ref="#Bridgman_Dr">Dr. Bridgman</persName> called after lunch and made me a
                    visit - telling me all about <pb n="184"/> our war! <corr>How</corr> the
                    Spaniards had a disciplined navy, and we had not - how much cleverer and quicker
                    they were than we - what an unrighteous war it was - but that in the end we must
                    win, for <country ref="#England">they</country> (England) intended standing by
                    us!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980524" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, May 24.</title></p>
                <p>Our last evening in <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> - and these two
                    last days have been very busy - between friends and affairs. The weather still
                    uncertain - we made the acquaintance of <persName ref="#Colvin_Sydney_Mr">Mr.
                        Sydney Colvin</persName> this afternoon. He came to see the <name
                        type="painting" ref="#Portrait_of_a_Girl">Leonardo</name> - and <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> talked a little with him about <persName
                        ref="#Steveson_Louis_Robert">Stevenson</persName>. He looks rather a hard,
                    dry fellow. <persName ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr. Rathbone</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Farrar_Gaspard">Farrar</persName> here too. Last agonies of packing
                    going on in all our rooms.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980601" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, June 1st. Holland House.</title></p>
                <p>Just one week ago tonight <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma">I</persName> made the
                    last entry - and it is hard to realize - and now we are here again, after a very
                    comfortable and monotonous voyage. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Kaiser_Wilhelm_der_Grosse">Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse</name> is the
                    finest ship I have ever sailed on. Such comfort, luxury, cleanliness - good
                    service, and the best and most profuse table I ever saw. <persName
                        ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr. Rathbone</persName> and <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr"
                        >Fielding</persName> were at the station to say goodbye, the morning we left
                    London. A quick and pleasant ride to <placeName ref="#Southampton"
                        >Southhampton</placeName>, and as we ran along the big dock, with the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Kaiser_Wilhelm_der_Grosse">Kaiser</name> lying close to
                    it, she looked enormous from the train. On three consecutive days we made 560
                    miles - and the voyage would have made a record, had we not 2 days before
                    reaching</p>
                <pb n="185"/>
                <p><placeName ref="New_York">New York</placeName>, broke one or the blades of one of
                    the screws. However, we were in our slip by 10:30 this morning.</p>
            </div>
        </body>
    </text>
</TEI>