volume-7_1899-1900.xml

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				<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
				<author>
					<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
				</author>
				<editor>
					<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
				</editor>
				<respStmt>
					<resp>EBA Interns</resp>
					<persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
					<persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
					<persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
					<persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
					<persName ref="JC">Jennifer Charoni</persName>
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				<publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
				<address>
					<addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
				</address>
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					<licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
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				<date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
				<distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
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				<note>Volume 7 1899-1900</note>
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					<title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
					<author>
						<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
					</author>
					<orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
					<address>
						<addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
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				<p>
					<persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
					for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
					antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
						Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
					with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
					along the <placeName ref="#Nile_River">Nile</placeName>, including his important
					yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
						ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
						ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
					archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
					picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
					literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
					twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
					contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
					about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
					in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
					digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
					Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
					The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
					Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
					Humanities education and internships.</p>
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						<persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
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								<p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
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			<div xml:id="EBA18991126" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Nov. 26, 1899.</title></p>

				<pb n="65"/>

				<p>On the 18th at 11 o’clock, Saturday morning, we sailed from New York on the Fűrst
					Bismark - the fourth voyage I have made in this boat - twice across the Northern
					Atlantic, and once, now 5 years ago, on this southern voyage. Clarence Wilson,
					and Howard Amory came to see us off. We have had a wonderful voyage - until
					tonight there has been no movement - we might have been travelling on a placid
					river. Now since leaving Gibraltar a few hours ago, the sea has been growing
					heavy and I find writing difficult. It has been very warm too - and I have as
					yet not worn any of my winter clothes. I have had a bad cold too - one of my old
					fashioned croupy colds, and stayed in bed 2 days. Theodore too, has had a cold,
					and does not get over it - because he won’t be careful. I have been most
					comfortable - having the Captain’s room and have enjoyed my little sitting room
					much, where we have our friends to tea. This afternoon we had Mrs. Woodworth and
					her daughter and Mr. Tom Maitland. They had been ashore at Gibraltar in the wet,
					and were glad enough to come in for a cup of good tea. For it began to pour with
					rain this morning and by 9 o’clock when we dropped anchor at Gib. it was almost
					invisible because of the rain. We had hoped to see or hear something of the
					Wilsons - but if they were there, they could not face the weather. I discovered
					an old Columbus friend on board this after- noon - Mary Bates! and she has been
					spending an hour or so with me this evening - and we have been talking of old
					times and people - <pb n="66"/> how many are gone! and how few remain!</p>
			</div>

			<div xml:id="EBA18991128" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Nov. 28.</title></p>

				<p> The last day of this long voyage has come - and I begin to feel more cheerful.
					The weather very squally for 2 days - but still warm. I sat out in my chair all
					the afternoon yesterday - dozing and watching the magnificent pageant of the
					clouds - such splendid marshalling of strange grand shapes - and such constant
					vivid effects of light and shade - until I was driven in as everyone else by a
					very sharp squall of wind and rain. We are due early tomorrow morning at Naples.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991129" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Nov. 29. Grand Hotel. Naples.</title></p>

				<p> True to our schedule we arrived early this morning. There was such a stir on
					deck and about the boat all night that I did not sleep well, and in spite of my
					determination not to get up early, and have the usual dreary waiting to land, I
					gladly heard the anchor go down at 5:30 and was up and for breakfast by 7
					o’clock. I caught a splendid view of Vesuvius as we slowly steamed in, while
					dressing, - the sun was rising, but had only touched a long, level line of smoke
					from its crater, turning it to gold - while all the rest of the world was in
					semi darkness. By 9 o’clock we were seated at breakfast before a little cackling
					wood fire in our sitting room here, with Nettie and Alice Wilson. Soon after,
					young Costantine from Rome turned up. The </p>
				<pb n="67"/>

				<p>rest went for the Posillipo drive - and this afternoon leaving Theodore to rest
					and take care of his cold, we drove to S. Olivato, but found it closed, and then
					to Santa Chiarra to see the Gothic tombs of the Angevine kings. The church cold
					and deserted, except for an old priest tottering down the aisle with his cat
					dancing behind. Sat in the palm garden after dinner and talked to Mrs. Woodward
					and the Morton girls. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991201" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 1st.</title></p>

				<p> We had a long pleasant morning at the museum yesterday - some shopping in the
					afternoon. This morning Theodore and I took the Posillipo drive. Constantini and
					the girls going to Pompeii. The morning heavenly beautiful and calm. Theodore
					has been wretched with his cold - and with a bad boil on his cheek, which
					developed at sea, and which it has been difficult to heal - so we had Dr.
					Malbrane after getting here, who lanced and dressed it - it is now much better. </p>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991203" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Dec. 3d.</title></p>

				<p><title>Hotel Internationale - Brindisi</title></p>

				<p> Left Naples yesterday at noon - arrived here at 10:30 last night, well tired.
					Ordered fires in all the rooms at once, had the beds pulled to pieces, and the
					very damp sheets and pillow cases dried before the fire - while we went down to
					the chill coffee room and had some good hot chocolate. The house and everything
					in it seems so damp - as it is so close to the water. Today, until 3 o’clock, it
					has rained - now it is clear and cool. We have just had some tea before </p>
				<pb n="68"/>

				<p>the fire in our big gold and red sitting room. The Osiris lies at the quay, just
					opposite the hotel, and we go on board of her tonight after dinner. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991207" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 7th.</title></p>

				<p> We arrived last evening at 7 o’clock - having reached Port Said at 8 o’clock in
					the morning. The three nights and two days we were on the Osiris were dismal and
					wretched - a clean, pretty, well arranged and comfortable boat when at rest, she
					is the very evil one when in motion. We left Brindisi at midnight. I had gone
					comfortably to sleep in my clean, roomy cheerful cabin, but wakened with the
					stir of starting and as soon as we got outside we met the heavy sea which the
					high wind had promised us all day - and between the shrieking of the wind, the
					tramping of the sailors overhead, and the heavy rolling, sleep went far away
					from me. I only spent part of one afternoon on the deck and appeared once at
					dinner - and although not ill, I preferred staying in bed to being knocked and
					rolled about - so there I did stay until the morning we reached Port Said -
					Theodore had fallen in with Sir Rennell Red in the smoking room, and made
					friends on the strength of mutual tastes, and common friends. We were too late
					for the morning train to Cairo, but the mail train had a saloon car attached for
					Sir Rennell, who kindly asked us to share it with him, which we gladly did. We
					have charming rooms here to the garden, on the 3d floor where we have never been
					before. This morning Salah came, and we went to see the Beduin and her crew. She
					is at the Museum landing, and is </p>
				<pb n="69"/>

				<p>almost ready for us - and I heartily wished we could have stayed on her - Abdul
					and Fuli, and all our men were so glad to see us. The river is discouragingly
					low - all our friends have gone up. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991208" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 8th.</title></p>

				<p> Alice met some friends from Copenhagen in the dining room last evening - Baron
					and Baroness Trantenburg. He is the Austrian delegate on the Caisse de la
					Debttes, and she is Russian - agreeable, full of talk, gesticulation and
					demonstration. He a charming elderly man of very decided parts. Nettie has had
					quite a shock since arriving. Hassan who came over about 3 months ago, has been
					very ill, and is in Cairo. She went with Salah to see him yesterday, at the
					house of his uncle Rais Mahommed and found him in a lamentable state in the
					noise and dirt of an ordinary mud village - and so ill and dazed with fever and
					medicine that he did not know her - she came home in great distress and telling
					Theodore about it, and he said at once, “come, and we will go to the German
					Hospital and try and get him in there”. And by 7 o’clock the poor fellow was
					comfortaby installed as second class patient in that excellent hospital. the
					Doctor pronounces it consumption and we fear it is. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991209" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 9.</title></p>
				<p> At the dahabeah, driving and shopping all day. Sir Rennell Rod called, and Dr.
					Sandwith. After dinner the Frantenbergs and we sat and talked in the big new
					hall which is such an improvement to </p>
				<pb n="70"/>

				<p>Shepherds. We are so busy we can do no sight seeing, as we are very anxious to
					get off on Thursday of next week. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991212" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 12.</title></p>
				<p> At the dab. most of the day - and are now in very good shape and ready for the
					first north wind that comes along. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991213" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 13.</title></p>
				<p> We spent the morning at the Museum - and had Dr. and Mrs. Mitchell, Scotch
					people, with whom Theodore struck up an acquaintance on the Osiris, to lunch.
					The Dr. is a well known Edinboro divine, very pleasant and interesting. They are
					going up the river with Lady Ashburton in her best. Baron von Bissing came to
					dine - and told us many things about Egyptian things. Every one is so charmed to
					have Maspero again at the head of the antiquities dep. and to be rid of Loret.
					Indeed the French were given to understand by Lord Cromer that if they did not
					send Maspero, the administration would go out of their hands. There have been
					two inspectors appointed - a new office. Quibell is inspector of Lower Egypt,
					and Howard Carter for Upper Egypt. Why Carter, who doesn’t know hieroglyphs,
					should have been appointed no one can say. And Newberry is in England, with no
					appointment, for which we are very sorry - and which no one with a sense of
					fitness can understand. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991214" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Dec. 14. Beduin.</title></p>

				<p> Came on board this morning. Mr. Quibell came to lunch - such </p>
				<pb n="71"/>

				<p>a pleasant visit - very busy all the afternoon settling. No wind and could not
					move - are still at the Museum landing - but so pleased to be once more in this
					charming little floating home -the very abode of peace and repose. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991215" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 15.</title></p>

				<p> 12 miles. Again very busy putting things in order. The rest drove into Cairo -
					Baron V. Bissing came to lunch - and a slight south wind having come up, after
					lunch, we gladly spread our sails and started, with v. Bissing and Salah saying
					goodbye from the shore. It was 2 o’clock and we came along slowly and gently,
					until just as the sun set most gloriously behind a forest of grand palms, the
					wind seemed to die out; but with the Beduins mysterious power of slipping along
					with no wind, we moved silently on the broad light of a full moon, until we tied
					up at 7 o’clock - about 3 miles below Bedrescheen. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991216" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 16.</title></p>

				<p> 12 miles. A very warm still morning - we did not move. Had the awning up - and
					sat on deck all day - very hot - we went for a walk after breakfast, but found
					too much dust and too many flies, and were driven home by the too ardent sun.
					About 2 o’clock a light wind came up, and we moved off - and were passing
					Helouan at 4 o’clock - the river wide and very difficult - and many working
					boats about - we did not touch bottom once - and sailed until 8 o’clock </p>
				<pb n="72"/>

				<p>occasionally as the wind died away, the men polled. We had tea on deck, and I
					came down soon after, and had a beautiful hour and a half on my sofa, looking
					out at the gloriously soft moonlight, the passing shores, and the silvered sails
					of the boats past which we glided - and we are now lying against a bank on which
					splendid palms are growing having made 12 miles - and being just 3 miles ahead
					of this day last year. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991217" type="Entry">
				<p><title>3d Sunday in Advent, Dec. 17.</title></p>

				<p> 5 miles. A perfectly calm day - I have been quite miserable all day. Our men
					tracked for a long time, and we thus made 5 miles -very hot. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991218" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Dec. 18th.</title></p>
				<p> 39 miles. I was quite happy this morning to hear before 7 o’clock the stir of
					preparation for sailing - and when my shutters were opened and I saw that we
					were under sail with quite a fair wind, and the sun shone soft and bright into
					my room, and I felt quite well, I was happy and thankful. The wind fell very
					light after awhile, and for an hour and a half our men polled, but since that we
					have been coming along in a steady, strong wind, and when we pulled up at 7
					o’clock this evening, we had made 39 miles. Passed Wasta at four o’clock, at
					which time we were sitting on deck, without wraps - which was not a bad thing to
					do on the 18th of Dec! We are tied up to the same island we were last year. It
					has been a most delightful day - and </p>
				<pb n="73"/>

				<p>it is a most delightful night. I stood at the window tonight looking at the
					moonlighted water and at Orion, and Sirius, wonderfully bright. I have always
					been so sorry we did not call our boat “Sirius” or “Saphis”. Theodore began
					reading aloud this evening, “England in the Nineteenth Century” by Oman. I am
					enchanted with Stevenson’s letters, by Sydney Calvin, just published. I have
					almost finished the 1st volume. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991219" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 19th.</title></p>
				<p> 8 miles. An unsatisfactory day, we have made only 8 miles. The morning was
					absolutely placid - the water without a wrinkle. About 2 o’clock, we began
					sailing in a light wind, which after awhile grew fitful, and then very strong -
					and the river being now so uncertain we did not dare keep on, but took refuge
					under a high bank for an hour. Then we polled and tracked and finally at 7
					o’clock pulled up to the landing at Benisoef - making 8 miles. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991220" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 20th.</title></p>
				<p> 29 miles. Another placid morning - the wind coming up about noon, and lasting
					until about 6 o’clock - about 12 o’clock we saw the smoke of the Hameses the
					Great - but she did not catch us until 5:30, as she was not making fast time,
					owing to the low water. Mr. and Mrs. Dan Fearing were on her - we had all hoped
					to meet in Cairo but they arrived the very day we left - and we hoped to catch
					them this evening at Maghagah - but our wind failed us, and we had to tie up
					four miles below Maghagah. </p>
				<pb n="74"/>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991221" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Dec. 21st.</title></p>
				<p> 22 miles. No wind until noon - a very light one however, lasting until after 5
					o’clock - we have pulled to the anchor and polled a good deal - and are now
					within 2 miles of Sheik Fadl. For two or three days there has been a little nip
					of winter in the air, which with the bright sunlight, has made a delicious air.
					Tonight it is very dark - many cloud about, and not even the “cold light of
					stars”. We are tonight 56 miles in advance of this day last year - and it is
					just one week today since we started. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991222" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 22d.</title></p>
				<p> 6 miles. The morning was cloudy with wind from the south. When my blinds were
					opened, I found we were lying at a board kind of beach, with a short herbage
					growing on it, and knowing we would not move until the wind went down, I sent
					word to have the fowls let out, and from my window I could see the whole
					performance which I always enjoy. The pair of sacred geese went first, and took
					at once to the water. Then the pet cock Dick, and his three white hens and then
					the turkeys, bedraggled indeed, the doves, and the rabbits. Dick remembers me
					very well, and when Amelie opened the window and I called to him, he came at
					once, and would have been in the room, had we not closed the window. About 10,
					the wind fell somewhat and we pulled to the anchor, and then sailed for an hour
					or so, until a difficult bend in the river brought the wind in our face - so we
					pulled up for the night at a beautiful low, broad sand bank, where we are </p>
				<pb n="75"/>

				<p>now lying, with the smoke of Galassaneh just around the corner - brining us
					within 25 miles of Minieh, where we got our first mail. We feel very anxious to
					have news of the war - all our English friends in Cairo were very sad and
					anxious. We had a wonderful sunset - splendid clouds touched into pink and
					crimson, against a brilliant blue sky; and in the midst of it, a little pitiful
					funeral cortege came across the sand, the few men bearing the wooden bier or box
					in which the dead man was laid, sewed up the coarse cloth - and the women crying
					and throwing dust upon their heads - they all got into a boat and were rowed
					across the river to the western shore where we could see the white mounds of
					acropolis. Two Egyptian gentlemen with a village sheik walked down to the boat
					to look at her, and Theodore sent Abdul out to ask if they would like to come
					inside and see her, which they gladly did - and after making their obeisances to
					us on deck, Theodore took them below, and they were mightily pleased. They only
					spoke Arabic - so Abdul acted as an interpreter. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991223" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 23.</title></p>
				<p> A miserable day so far as getting on is concerned - though it has been charming
					indoors where I have spent the day. It has been cold, with constant high south
					wind - and we have not stirred an inch, fortunately we are lying at a peasant
					place. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991224" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec. 24.</title></p>
				<p> 4 miles. Wind still south - clear and cool. We </p>
				<pb n="76"/>

				<p>tracked about 4 miles - and have a very high bank on one side of us. Busy this
					afternoon and evening with little Xmas preparations. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991225" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Christmas, Dec. 25.</title></p>
				<p> A beautiful cold morning, with south west wind which continued all day. The air
					has been deliciously pure and pleasant. We had a Merry breakfast and afterwards
					distributed our gifts to the men- which is always such a pleasant thing to do -
					they are such happy children on such occasions. Then we went on deck to see our
					display there. Jones and the men had been busy with it since 5 o’clock this
					morning, and it was entirely charming - with palm branches and other green
					things with bunches of mandarins - and all the flags and pennants flying. The
					thermometer on my cabana went to 41 last night - as against 66 at midday. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991226" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 26</title></p>
				<p> 13 miles. (12 miles) Which we have made mostly this afternoon - the wind all
					this morning was very shifting - and cool, below Minieh - and cloudy. We hope to
					reach Minieh tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991227" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 27.</title></p>
				<p> 14 miles. Another perfectly calm morning and very cold, the 2 above Minia
					mercury last night at 37 degrees. Once last year, we had it at 38 degrees -
					about 11 o’clock a light wind began and we reached Minia at 3:30. Sent ashore
					for mail, and posted a heap of letters, and then </p>
				<pb n="77"/>

				<p>started on, but only made about 2 miles, when the wind failed us. Saw the “Mast”
					at Minia - Lord Northampton so our Rais reported, is making some excavations
					near Minia. We have given reading Isabella d’Esta it is so garrulous and so
					confused - and we have begun “Italian Unity” a charming concise and clear little
					history - “England in the 19th Century”, by Oman, whom we met last spring in
					Oxford when we lunched with Mr. Sayce. We received a huge mail today, good news
					from all our letters - but distressing accounts of affairs at the seat of war in
					South Africa. Lord Roberts has been sent down as Commander in Chief with Lord
					Kitchener as his Chief of Staff. The latter has resigned, and bidden farewell to
					the Egyptian Army, and is happily on his way to Africa. A sad incident was Lord
					Roberts receiving on the day of his appointment news of the death in battle of
					his only son! We are tonight 74 miles ahead of last year. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991228" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday. Dec. 28.</title></p>
				<p> 13-1/2 miles. Beni Hassan No wind until 11 o’clock - then slight - day cold and
					often cloudy - quite a mist tonight on the river - tracked and sailed, and are
					lying about a mile above Minia. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991229" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Dec. 29.</title></p>
				<p> 20 miles. Began tracking at 8 o’clock this morning and kept it up for two hours.
					At noon the wind began, and we have sailed slowly and steadily along - bringing
					up 3 miles below </p>
				<pb n="78"/>

				<p>Hadji Kanduh at 6 o’clock. Stuck upon a sand bank for 5 minutes. Beautiful day,
					cool and bright. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991230" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Dec. 30.</title></p>
				<p> 17 miles. When I drew aside my curtain this morning at 7 o’clock, I found the
					fog so thick that I could not see the water - occasionally a pale ghost of sun
					would show itself, to disappear in a moment - and it was not until 10 o’clock
					that the fog moved off so that we could track - and pulling to an anchor and
					tracking we got on until noon, when a light wind came, and carried us on until 6
					o’clock - at which time we pulled up for the night, just at the long turning
					that leads to the Gebel Abufeyda cliffs - of which the Captains are always so
					afraid. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA18991231" type="Entry">
				<p><title>First Sunday after Christmas. Dec. 31. 30 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Another heavy fog prevailed this morning - and we were not off until nearly 10
					o’clock - tracked and sailed until about 2 o’clock, when in a strong wind we
					sailed until 6 o’clock - bringing us within 10 miles of Assiut. The day has been
					beautiful. Passed the Gebel Abufeda - and Manfalout. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000101" type="Entry">
				<p><title>January 1st. 1900! Assiut. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The beginning of a new century is really thrilling! so much do our arbitrary
					divisions of time influence our feeling and sentiment - we have been discussing
					the true beginning of the </p>
				<pb n="79"/>

				<p> century - whether it is today, or not until 1901. There seems to be a wide
					difference of opinion about this - and the papers are full of it. We received
					news on our arrival here, of poor Hassan’s death - on the 27th of Dec. and we
					feel very sad over it. The Sister from the Hospital wrote that he sank rapidly
					from weakness, and died quietly in possession of all his faculties. It will be a
					great loss to my sister-in-law’s family. We have had a great blow from the North
					all day - and have taken until 3 o’clock to make the great bends in the river
					before reaching Assiut. It is an interesting spectacle the work on the great dam
					here - and much seems to have been accomplished since we saw it last March. We
					are lying at a very high bank - and the dust is flying everywhere. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000102" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Jan. 2. Tuesday.</title></p>
				<p> 32 miles. We began sailing at 7 o’clock this morning in a very good wind, and
					soon after breakfast had passed Aboutig, and are now about 10 miles above
					Tahtah. Unfortunately the wind increased to a gale, and at 12 o’clock - in a
					difficult turn, we had to furl our sails, and anchor until 5:30 when we were
					able to get off, and did not stop until after 6 o’clock. If we could have made
					the turn, where we came to grief, we would have been able to sail the whole day,
					and would have made a record journey. The evening was beautiful - and just under
					Venus, the palest little crescent of a new moon was seen - at which our sailors
					looked with much interest, as Ramadan, The Mahommedan Lent, begins the day after
					the first appearance </p>
				<pb n="80"/>

				<p>of a new moon following the first day of their lunar year. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000103" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 3d.</title></p>
				<p><title> 40-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Started early in a fair wind, making Sohag at about 2:30 - where we pulled up a
					few moments to get our mail - and managed by tracking and polling to make the
					awkward turn to Akmim - 5 miles from Sohag. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000104" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 4th. 27-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have been hoping to reach Balliana either last night or this morning to meet
					the Fearings who are on the Rameses the III. But the wind failed us all the
					morning - and to our great disappointment when within 2 miles of Balliana, we
					met the Rameses on her way down, though she was scheduled not to sail until
					tomorrow morning. We could only shout our mutual regrets to each other. We were
					so anxious to show them the Beduin, and they equally anxious to see it. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000105" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 5th. Balliana.</title></p>
				<p>Still lying where we pulled up last night - Theodore and Alice went out to Abydos
					this morning - lunching there, reaching home before 5 o’clock. Theodore reports
					that the road has been greatly improved in view of the visit of Lord Cromer -
					and that they had good donkeys - 2 things hardly to be believed of Abydos - the
					day quite cool. </p>
			</div>
			<pb n="81"/>

			<div xml:id="EBA19000106" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 6. 5 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A dead calm all day - only moved by tracking and polling. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000107" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Jan 7. Epiphany. 8 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Another calm day - and very warm, -84° on the cabana and the really first warm
					evening we have had. Our young moon begins to make the nights beautiful.</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000108" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 8. 3 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Calm day, with occasional gusts of strong south wind, made our 3 little miles by
					dint of patient tracking and poling.</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000109" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 9. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>No wind this morning - but tracking and pulling to anchor we reached Nagh-Hamadi
					to see the bridge just closing - and had to wait until 3 o’clock. We went
					through in beautiful style reaching Kasr es Sayd and tying up just above it.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000110" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 10. 38 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Started out this morning at 7 o’clock with a side wind, rather strong, and came
					dangerously near making a wreck of ourselves in about half an hour - going full
					sail on to some rocks quite concealed by the water. It made a frightful row; </p>
				<pb n="82"/>

				<p>I was reading in bed, and found myself standing in the middle of the room
					shouting, “Good heavens! what have we done!” Everything and everybody was in an
					uproar, the sails were dropped - hatches up, and the bottom of the boat
					carefully searched - but no opening found and no leakage - but there we stuck.
					Fortunately we were not far from Kasr es Sayd - and the Reis sent the felucca to
					shore for help. Two trips of her, brought about 20 men, with the Sheik of the
					village - and they immediately with our men went overboard, and after much
					grunting and heaving, swung the boat around, and afloat again. It was a cold
					morning, and a high wind blowing - and after I was dressed I went on deck and we
					were pulling to the anchor to make a difficult turn, and land the men. They were
					a rough looking lot - and one of them more nearly like a monkey than any human
					being I ever saw. He was a savage buffoon - and full of capers - grimaces and
					always shouting. We were glad to get rid of them and they were excessively
					pleased at the 21. Theodore gave the Sheik to be distributed among them. Then
					our men set vigourously to work to clean and wash the deck where they had been -
					we are now lying a little above Keneh. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000111" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Janu. 11. 27 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Contrary winds and alternate calms have made sailing very difficult today.
					Beautiful weather. Five miles above Nagada. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000112" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 12. 17-1/2 miles. Luxor.</title></p>
				<p>We arrived today at 3:30. Found only the</p>

				<pb n="83"/>

				<p>“Gaselle” and the “Miriam” here. M. Maspero is on the “Miriam”. We are most
					anxious to know him. We have made the trip from Cairo here, staying one day at
					Abydos, in 28 days. Came to our old place under the Castle - where Mr. Insinger
					is renewing his river front in a very substantial manner. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000113" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 13.</title></p>
				<p> To Karnak this morning - a delightful ride. They are still excavating and
					finding some good things there. But the fall last summer of the 10 columns in
					the great hall, makes a melancholy spectacle. They are now being raised. Saw Mr.
					Carter yesterday - Mr. Huhatt to lunch. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000114" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Second Sunday after Epiphany. Jan. 14.</title></p>
				<p> Nettie and I went to church today, the little chapel looking more attractive
					than usual. The hotel is virtually empty - and the congregation was small.
					Theodore and Alice went to Kanah. M. and Mme. Maspero called soon after lunch.
					We were delighted to meet them. He speaks excellent English, but she, only
					French. He has promised to send us over under Mr. Carter’s guidance to see the
					great Amenhotep II tomb, which Loret discovered last winter - and on the
					“Miriam” ready to go down to Cairo, is an immensely interesting cargo - no less
					than nine royal mummies, found in that tomb - and making a splendid sequence
					with those found years ago at Derl el Bahri, of the kings and members of their
					families. We invited the Masperos with their niece to dine </p>
				<pb n="84"/>

				<p>next Tuesday. Last evening Mr. Murch called - as large as life, and even larger
					than last year. Theodore and Alice after the Masperos left this afternoon, rode
					over to Hatshepaut’s temple - reporting it very disagreeable, because of the
					construction of some protecting roofs and colonnades. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000115" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 15.</title></p>
				<p> A very quiet, cool day - overcast. Theodore and Alice went this afternoon to
					Medinet Habu. They report the country on the other side of the river quite
					desolate and uncultivated back from the river. Mr. and Mrs. Insinger called and
					had tea with us - and sent flowers. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000116" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 16.</title></p>
				<p> Rode into the town this morning and went to see Dr. Murch - stayed until nearly
					one o’clock looking at scarabs. Dr. Alexander and wife from Assiut who are on
					the Mission boat, that we passed coming up, came in - and we asked them all to
					tea. Mr. Huleatt to lunch, and chess afterwards, and the Masperos at dinner.
					They stayed late, and we had a charming evening. He is so interesting - simple,
					and agreeable. He looks German, was born in Milan, and has spent a year or more
					in America and is said to possess the most varied learning - and talks well on
					every subject. After giving us the most interesting information on Egyptian
					matters, in the most unpretentious way, he fell into talk with Nettie after she
					had been singing, on music - and she says she never met anyone who knew so much
					about it, and seemed so much to love it. Al- </p>

				<pb n="85"/>

				<p>together it has been one of those evenings which stand out in memory - as
					individual, and altogether valuable. Cool and cloudy. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000117" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 17.</title></p>
				<p>Another cool, clouded morning - which was most favorable for our visit to the
					Tombs of the Kings. Yesterday the “Thames” with Mr. Kidder of Boston on board,
					came up and took the Miriams place behind us; and Theodore sent a note asking if
					he would like to join us at the tombs, and see that of Amenhotep II with us.
					Poor Alice was so ill with a bad headache she could not go. I went in my chair -
					though I was sorry that I did not try my good little donkey - as donkeys in the
					chair did not work well together. The ride through the cliffs, and into the
					valley of the Tombs was most delightful. I never saw the sky so blue, or the
					cliffs so deeply yellow - and occasionally a few light fleecy clouds, sailing up
					over the blue. Most of our little company were in advance of me - so that I had
					the beautiful great silence all to myself - we went first into the tomb of
					Rameses VI and then had lunch at the entrance to the tomb of Rameses XI. Mr.
					Carter joined us at lunch, and Mr. Kidder and his friend appeared just as we had
					finished. So we started out to see the Amenhotep tomb, the sun was tremendously
					hot, and we ought not to have ventured out in such heat so soon after eating. It
					was quite a climb, and once or twice my heart and my strength failed me. A sharp
					incline led to the mouth of a tomb where a heavy iron gate had been placed. Mr.
					Carter advised all the men to </p>
				<pb n="86"/>

				<p>take off their coats - we were each given lighted candles, and began a steep
					descent or staircase of broken stones, along which a rope had been stretched for
					safety - then over some beams across a deep shaft, and then down another
					impossible stairway, so low that we could not stand upright, and then came into
					the great funeral hall - supported by square pillars - the ceiling, the walls
					and surfaces of the pillars painted and decorated in very chaste style - and as
					fresh as when it was done almost 4000 years ago - and at the end of this great
					hall but on a lower level was the enormous red granite sarcophagus of the king
					with some very delicate decorations of hieroglyphs and figures - the corners
					well rounded. The lid had been taken off and broken off by some ancient
					despoilers, but the body remains untouched - probably protected Mr. Carter told
					us by the curse pronounced in the band of hieroglyphs around the top of the
					sarcophagus upon any marauding hands. The beautifully decorated coffin lay on
					some support almost at the level of the sarcophagus and Jones standing at one
					end, and Mr. Carter at the other lifted the lid, and the mummy was there just as
					it had been originally laid - swathed entirely in its mummy garments, with 3 or
					4 rows of wreaths of Minosa or Sunt blossoms about the neck, and on the breast a
					bunch of the same. This is the first instance of a king being found in his own
					coffin, undisturbed in his own tomb - and it has wisely been decided to leave
					him as he lies. It was really an impressive sight. Afterwards we went into a
					small chamber on a higher level, and saw the body of a man bound to a painted
					boat, and not mummified - but the flesh hardened upon the bones - a gaping wound
					in the breast - and in another </p>
				<pb n="87"/>

				<p>chamber 3 bodies of a man, his wife, and child lying side by side, with the same
					wounds, and in the same position. It was at first thought that this pointed to
					the practice of human sacrifice at the burial of a king; but M. Maspero the
					other evening seemed rather undecided about this. We were not long down in the
					tomb, as the heat was great, over 100° - and we found the air of 4000 years ago
					ill adapted to our modern lungs - so climbing the rough stairs, we were glad to
					emerge into fresh air, and the light of common day. But we had no sooner got
					out, than Theodore frightened us half to death by fainting away and sinking to
					the ground. Our only restorative was water, until Mr. Carter sent a swift
					messenger over the cliffs to his house at Der el Bahri for some brandy. He soon
					revived, and insisted on standing on his feet, when again he went off, and this
					time I was thoroughly alarmed, as I feared he had received a sun stroke. But the
					brandy made him all right - and we decided that a hearty lunch, followed by a
					stiff climb in a broiling sun immediately after, and the bad air of the tomb
					were the cause of this unusual behavior on his part. After a nap of nearly an
					hour in the shade in my carrying chair, he mounted his donkey and we all came
					home - and very thankful I was to reach the rest and comfort of the boat. We are
					all mightily tired tonight. After this weary expedition I always resolve never
					to go again. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000118" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 18.</title></p>
				<p> Today we have been quiet - only a visit to our old friend’s, Mohammed
					Mohassib’s, to see his curios - Theodore bought some very fine </p>
				<pb n="88"/>

				<p>things. There are so many good things offered quietly for sale here now, that the
					Arab thieves must have found some rich tomb to plunder. This afternoon we went
					to the races - and a Scotch clergyman the Rev. Mr. Macdonald afterwards came to
					play chess with Theodore. The “Thames” started for Aswân today. Very cool, even
					cold. Called on the Insingers. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000119" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 19.</title></p>
				<p> Very cool, cloudy and quiet all day - stayed at home. Mr. Huleatt at lunch. Mrs.
					Tytus and her son, Mrs. Day, and young Terry the people who are on the “Tih”
					came to tea this afternoon - very pleasant people - the two young men so
					unaffectedly enthusiastic about Egypt. How exquisite the view of the mountains
					opposite us. I look and admire from the earliest morning hour, sometimes before
					7 o’clock, when their reflection in the river is etherially lovely - until the
					last thing before going to bed, I look out of my window and still see, for we
					have the brilliant light of stars, though our moon has gone, their soft yellow
					shadow in the water. We notice a fall of several inches in the river since we
					have been here. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000120" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 20.</title></p>
				<p> To town on my donkey this morning to see Mohammed Mohassib - who gave me a most
					interesting gold ring, which just fitted my little finger - with the cartouche
					of a royal mother on it. He gave it to me with such a pretty manner, and said it
					was to bring me luck! He came again this evening to see us and say goodbye -
					such a shrewd, wise, </p>
				<pb n="89"/>

				<p>humorous old Arab - speaking English so quaintly. He talked of such interesting
					things - antiques - excavations - the low Nile and its consequences - the
					history of Luxor, etc. A dear old man! Mr. Carter came to lunch. He was much
					struck with some scarabs and things Theodore showed him which we has bought
					since we came, and said he knew that some rich and important tomb was being
					robbed - and that he was on the scent of it. He is the Inspector of Antiquities
					for Upper Egypt. Mr. Huleatt came to play chess - we start up the river tomorrow
					if we have wind - and get our coke, which is due on the steamer tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000121" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 3d Sunday after Epiphany. Jan. 21.</title></p>
				<p> Jones came in while we were at breakfast to say that the “Istar” was coming down
					and looking out of the window we saw her just heading for shore, and she pulled
					up just behind the “Maat” which came up just behind us yesterday. After
					breakfast Theodore went over to see Mr. Sayce and asked him to lunch with us. He
					came looking very well and so fussy and amusing about the dangers of the present
					state of the river. He went no farther than El Kab - and seems very anxious to
					get down soon and safely. Our coke arrived - and at 3 o’clock we were taking
					down our awnings and getting ready to sail. Mr. Insinger came with some flowers
					to say goodbye, at 3:30 we were off and reached Erment in a very light wind,
					just as daylight failed. </p>
			</div>
			<pb n="90"/>

			<div xml:id="EBA19000122" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 22. 27 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We are lying tonight one mile above Esneh. I have been miserable all day - but
					came out to dinner tonight. The wind grew so strong we were forced to come to
					the bank about 5 o’clock - which we did with a bang - and now we are securely
					and doubly anchored - and a howling gale going on - the hardest I ever saw on
					the Nile - and there is such a dashing of water and noise that writing is
					difficult, and I fear sleep will be as difficult. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000123" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 23d. 56 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The gale lasted though with lessening violence all night, and enough of it left
					today to bring us finely on our way to Silsileh tonight. Passed the “Antar” with
					Mr. Somers-Clarke, who waved a greeting as we went by, about 12 miles above El
					Aab. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000124" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 24. 41 miles. Aswân.</title></p>
				<p>We have made a good run today, bringing up here at 5 o’clock. Passed the Tih
					early in the forenoon, in difficulty with a sand bank - but she got away in 2
					hours after us. Theodore has scouted at all the stories we have heard of the
					river here - but we were more and more amazed as we drew near. Mr. Sayce had
					told us we could not reach our old landing place without going around the island
					of Elephantine, which we never do - but things looked so bad, that we pulled up
					just before reaching Grenfell’s tombs just opposite 2 fine sycamores. A lovely
					spot indeed, with its stretches </p>
				<pb n="91"/>

				<p> of yellow sand. Elephantine is almost connected with Aswân by the sand and oh!
					how very intrusive and out of place the new hotel, built by that objectionable
					Anglo-American Co. on the lovely island of Elephantine looks. It stands just
					where the old hospital buildings stood. Theodore and the girls went immediately
					into town with the felucca, and did not get back until dark, - having had to
					walk over a great stretch of sand. The air is lovely - cool, quieting, life
					giving. Just 3 days and 2 hours coming from Luxor. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000125" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Jan. 25.</title></p>
				<p> The wind was blowing such a gale from the north all the morning, and the sand
					flying so suffocatingly, that none of us stirred out of the boat. We got a great
					mail this morning. Good news from everywhere by letter, but sad news of war and
					suffering in S. Africa. Our sympathies are deeply enlisted for the English in
					this hour of deep tribulation. This afternoon we went out in the felucca, paid
					first, a visit to the Birds on the Gazelle, but did not find them - then stopped
					at the new Cook’s Hotel , the “Cataract Hotel” to see it. It is hardly yet
					finished though there are many guests already there. It stands high above the
					river, opposite the southern end of Elephantine - a well built, well furnished,
					and with open fireplaces everywhere - a large covered terrace in front, and many
					balconies and verandahs give splendid views of all the beautiful features of the
					river here. We were delighted with it. And what air! delicious and inspiriting.
					It is a tangible as pleasure </p>
				<pb n="92"/>

				<p>to breathe this air, as to eat when hungry. Then we called at the “Tih” to see
					Mrs. Tytus and Mrs. Day - and after quite a visit, went over to the town - the
					Post Office, Telegraph office etc. Then walked to the extreme end of the town,
					to the great stretch of sand almost filling the river on this side, and found
					the felucca waiting for us - and with great dfficulty got across to our Beduin.
					But it will take only a day of two to make even this impossible - and leave us
					only the long pull around the southern part of the island. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000126" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Jan. 26.</title></p>
				<p> Went around the island and over to Aswân this morning. Beautiful weather, but a
					little cool. Bought some very unusual old baskets from the Sudan, - the manner
					of making which and their patterns suggested our Indian basket work from Alaska
					and the South West. Went into the Aswân Hotel to read the despatches - news from
					Africa more encouraging. Lord Roberts, and Lord Kitchener had arrived. Then
					through the Bazar and home. The river front of Aswan is really charming when one
					reached it, but the climb through long stretches of sand, or up the steep stairs
					dripping with water from the water skins of the carriers makes it very
					discouraging. A delicious row home through the splendid air. After lunch I
					devoted myself to past arrears of writing, until after tea, when Theodore, Alice
					and I went for a walk on Elephantine. This morning early, we pulled up to a
					little cove opposite the southern island of Kitchener’s and are lying in an
					ideal spot where in a deep curve of the Elephantine bank, a low sand bank has </p>
				<pb n="93"/>

				<p>formed. Splendid trees on the shore, and the steep cliffs opposite away across
					the river, shrouded in golden red sand, and further along the chaotic rocks of
					the Cataract, make fine features. I have never been in a more lovely spot. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000127" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Jan. 27.</title></p>
				<p> We have had a tiring day, which I am glad is over. Theodore hired a special
					train to take us to Philae, and we asked the “Tih” people to go with us - which
					they gladly did. We left our boat at 10 minutes before 10 o’clock, and left
					Aswân in the funny little train at 10:30. Shellal is now a vast workshop - with
					shops and booths, tents and railway trains. Anything in greater contrast to the
					verdant, barbaric spot we first knew it, could not well be imagined. We found
					Imam, Dendowi, and all the rest of our old friends waiting for us - and after
					the steep climb up to the temples, found Mr. and Mrs. Newman in their usual
					corner in the Hall of Columns. I stayed a long time talking to them, for there
					is really nothing of much interest in any of the temples themselves and we had
					been so often - and we all agreed with Theodore when he said the oftener he came
					to Philae, the less he wanted to come again. We had lunch and a very pretty,
					good one - our ample lunch panniers are so satisfactory, in the eastern
					colonnade as usual, among the flies and the hovering, clamorous natives, who are
					always trying to offer some service, in order to establish some claim to
					baksheesh. Of course Imam and Dendowi were our personal attendants. After
					Theodore had finished his cigar, we took a cataract boat, and went down the
					river as </p>
				<pb n="94"/>

				<p>far as it is permitted, to see what we could of the barrage - which was not much
					or impressive, then to make a visit on the Newmans, and look at his pictures,
					and then to the train, where we had to sit and wait some time. What a sight was
					the motley crowd - every manner of savage, in every kind of rags and clothing -
					a weary half hour in the jolting, dusty little train - another weary tramp
					across the sands to our felucca into which we thankfully got, and said “khalas
					Philas”! A delicious row home - tea waiting for us on the shaded deck - quiet,
					cleanliness and peace! and alas! the big boom down. The big white sail furled
					and packed on it - not to be used again until next year. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000128" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Jan. 28th. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
				<p> A quiet beautiful day at home - reading and writing. It is a physical pleasure
					to breathe here at Aswân. After tea we went in the felucca, sailing up and
					rowing down, towards the cataract. A heavenly thing to do at that hour - Mr. and
					Mrs. Bird, from the Gazelle, came to dine. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000129" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Jan. 29th.</title></p>
				<p> I spent the morning on deck - Theodore at home writing - Nettie and Alice at the
					bazar - still the north wind blowing - river perceptibly falling each day - I am
					in no hurry to leave Aswân - we are so charmingly placed here in this little
					cove, with its small pretty beach just large enough for it - and the grand palms
					on the island, through which the wind soughs so strangely and pleasantly. I love
					it </p>
				<pb n="95"/>

				<p>all - and it is such a good place for our fowls. Our two pet geese are enchanted
					with it - they sail about from window to window, asking for attention and food -
					we had such good news from home - all well, and tranquil. At 5 o’clock we went
					for tea on the Gazelle, with the Birds, and had a pleasant visit. We have such a
					delightful little savage, who has made himself quite at home on the boat. Little
					Hassoun, the son of Hassoum the sailor, who has been one of our principal
					sailors for 4 years. He lives on the island just above us. He was sweet and
					attractive last year - but is much more so now - and is the most interesting
					child I ever saw - and very clean. We may get off tomorrow if the wind allows
					us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000130" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 30th.</title></p>
				<p> The wind did not allow us - and as the bread arrived late in the morning, we
					decided to wait until tomorrow. A beautiful day - but cool - the Birds came to
					say goodbye. We went for a sail at 5 o’clock - enchanting. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000131" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 31st. 3 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Got off about 9:30 this morning - north wind rather light at the time - said
					goodbye to our little Hassoun and Aswân with real regret. As soon as we got out
					on the main river, the wind was so strong we were driven to the long stretch of
					sand, just opposite our landing a week ago - near the sycamores under Grenfell’s
					tombs. Towards evening the wind falling, we went down about 2 miles. </p>
				<pb n="96"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000201" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, February 1st. 18 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We were still within sight of Aswân this morning - and the north wind has blown
					all day - but the men have rowed, and with the current we have made about 18
					miles, and are within 5 miles of Kom Ombo. Day warm - it is pleasant to be on
					the move again, and to be restricted to the life of the boat. Yesterday was the
					last day of Ramadam - and today is the feast of Baerain - and as soon as we
					appeared on deck, all our men came in procession to shake hands, and give
					congratulations and wishes, much as we do at New Years. The young moon was
					visible this evening - the merest thread of a crescent. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000202" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 2. 2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The men began rowing at 6 o’clock A.M. and by 9 o’clock when we had finished
					breakfast we had pulled up under the Kom Ombo temple. We paid a rather short
					visit to it, as we wanted to go on. It was only to show it to Alice - but the
					wind was so strong that in a difficult curve of the river below Kom Ombo, we had
					to go to the sand bank on the opposite side of the river, where we laid until 6
					o’clock - when the wind falling, we dropped down two miles. It has been the
					warmest day we have had - so that we forsook the deck until 5 o’clock. The geese
					were let out this morning, and have been all day crazy with delight, splashing
					in the water, and sailing round and round the boat, stopping at certain windows
					where they are accustomed to be fed, and begging for food. When at 6 o’clock we
					moved off, they declined being caught - and we thought they would follow the
					boat. </p>
				<pb n="97"/>

				<p>The felucca with one sailor followed to keep watch of them - but the night came
					so soon, that we sent back the chicken boat with two men to help, and only about
					two hours after the boats returned, bringing only the geese - the gander - a
					handsome young bird, could not be caught. We hope he may come during the night.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000203" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 3d. 21 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A rather quiet day enabled the men to row most of the time. We made Silsilis just
					at one o’clock. After lunch in spite of the heat, Alice, with Jones as an
					escort, went across to the quarries - and afterwards joined Theodore and Nettie
					at the grotto of Horemheb. After leaving Silsilis we came to the same difficult
					part of the river that we passed Jan. 23d. There was a fresh wreck to be seen
					this afternoon - another gyassa - with its mast above water - and the stretches
					of sand were wider than they were then. The wreck of a steamer that went down in
					the first year of the war of the Soudan is now showing a little - and is a very
					dangerous obstacle to navigation. Passed the Rameses the Great going up. We were
					on deck until 7 o’clock. The night was so beautiful and soft. But we already
					miss the delicious pure Aswân air. I have never heard anything equal to the
					frogs that we hear now in the evening. Such great basso-profundo voices: It must
					be the low water. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000204" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 5th Sunday after Epiphany. Feb. 4. 16 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We had got to within 4 miles of Adfu, this morning</p>

				<pb n="98"/>

				<p>about 11 o’clock - when the north wind began in an instant to blow almost a gale,
					and we came to a low green bank, where we are still lying, wind very strong.
					Theodore and Alice went for a walk about 5 o’clock and Nettie and I had our tea
					alone - and afterwards walked on deck. Dahabeah Gamila passed up - Rameses the
					Great also. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000205" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 5th. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Came to Edfu at 9 o’clock - and went to the temple. After two or three visits it
					becomes uninteresting this temple. I had the best donkey I ever had in Egypt -
					rather big and black. Wind blew from the north all day. Have managed to get down
					about 6 or 7 miles. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000206" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 6. 28 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A beautiful calm day - reached El-Kab at 8:30 in the morning. The rest walked up
					to the temple - all the dogs were waiting to be fed - and my old woman soon
					appeared, looking more like a mummy than ever. She was trembling with delight on
					seeing me - I gave her some warm clothes, money, and things to eat - and she
					stayed crouching on the bank among the beans, mumbling her rolls and butter, and
					calling down blessings upon me, until we moved off. She brought me a long white
					bead, as a gift! Touching! Reached Esna where we did not stop about 7 o’clock.
					“Herodotus” and Mr. Somers-Clarke there. </p>
				<pb n="99"/>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000207" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 7th. 12 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We began the day in a beautiful manner, with a gentle south wind, and hoped to
					make a record day, and reach Luxor tonight. But suddenly, in the twinkling of an
					eye, all was changed. I saw the Rais give the order to furl the sails - and we
					all exclaimed in wonder, “what can he mean” when I saw the sand coming - and in
					a moment it was on us! We gathered up all our belongings and scurried below -
					windows, doors, and tambooshes were closed, and the north wind howled all day,
					and we were obliged to tie up at once two or three miles below Gebelen. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000208" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 8. 19-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have made today reaching Luxor at 2:30. Came to our old landing under the
					Castle. Found the Thames and the Sunshine here and the Herodotus arrived late
					this afternoon. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000209" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 9.</title></p>
				<p> Home all day. Theodore and Nettie and I went across to Medinet Habu and took tea
					and over to Der el Medinet. Charming effects coming home. Mrs. Somers-Clarke
					dined with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000210" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 10.</title></p>
				<p> Went to town on my donkey with Theodore. To Mahasaibs, where we saw a few most
					interesting things. Then to all on Mrs. Murch, where </p>
				<pb n="100"/>

				<p>it looked so cool and clean. It is the only pleasant spot I know at Luxor - in
					the town! Mohassib made us a visit this evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000211" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Septuagesima. Feb. 11.</title></p>
				<p> This being the only day that Mr. Carter could show Alice the tomb of Amenhotep
					II, she, with Nettie, Amelie and Jones - lunch baskets my carrying chair,
					donkeys and many sailors started about 10:30. I would not go again and Theodore
					I think hardly dared to go in the heat. But he and I went across and rode to Mr.
					Carter’s house to meet them and have tea. We found Mr Somers-Clarke with them.
					We admired the little house, and the pretty garden within the enclosing walls.
					There was a real avenue of scent trees. Rode home by the brilliant moonlight -
					Alice and Nettie well tired, but reporting a most interesting and delightful
					day. 3 dahabeahs arrived up today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000212" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 12th.</title></p>
				<p>A tremendous gale from the north has been blowing all day - and although we had
					all the awnings up and tightly secured, it was so cold and the dust so bad we
					deserted the deck. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess with Theodore, and afterwards
					the wind having fallen a little, Theodore and Alice went over to Der el Medinet.
					Mr. Carter came to dine, and we had a pleasant evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000213" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 13.</title></p>
				<p> Much warmer today, but a high wind still. Home all day. </p>
				<pb n="101"/>

				<p>Young Terry and Tytus from the Tih, came to dine with us They are just down from
					Khartoum - and told us many interesting things. Wise boys! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000214" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 14.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore and I went into Luxor this morning, to see about various things - went
					to say goodbye to Mrs. Murch. Mr. Huhatt again to play chess, and then we all
					went over to Der el Bahri and had tea. It was a charming afternoon - and the
					ride home with the splendid full moon was delightful. It was interesting to see
					the admirable manner in which the temple is being protected by walls and partial
					roofing. There are now 9 dahabeahs here - saw Carter and said goodbye. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000215" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 15. 32 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Mr. Murch came to breakfast and I sent some little delicacies up to the castle
					and a book to Mr. Insinger, who has had a sharp attack. To my surprise he came
					down to the boat - looking ghastly and hardly able to move or breathe, -
					speaking very frankly and almost defiantly of his condition. Then we got off -
					and very glad I was to quit those high, evil smelling Luxor banks - which the
					low water has made very disagreeable. We had a good south wind - and the day has
					been very warm. Passed Nagada, and are now lying at a low sand bank opposite
					Kuft, the ancient Koptos, which we intend visiting tomorrow, to see the
					Reisners, and the work Mr. Reisner is doing there. On deck until 7 o’clock - to
					see the full moon rise </p>
				<pb n="102"/>

				<p>splendidly. Passed Mr. Somers-Clarke who is at Karnac. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000216" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 16. Kuft.</title></p>
				<p>We are still lying where we were last night. After breakfast we went across the
					river, and took the best donkeys we could find at the landing place, which were
					inexpressibly bad. They were the ordinary little working animals, and our
					saddles were all too big for them - and they stumbled and grunted along a
					highway running through rich fields, where were the best crops I have seen this
					winter. After having ridden a mile or more we came to the old town, entirely in
					ruins - mostly of mud brick walls of Roman or Coptic times - with some inscribed
					remains of the time of Antef V and Thothmes III. We could not find the Reisners,
					or hear anything of them, the natives saying only that he was working in the
					mountains, which were two hours at least farther on. So we gave it up, and
					Theodore and Jones walked home rather than ride their poor little beasts. Some
					drops of rain fell two or three times - and by the time we got back to the boat,
					a furious north wind was making the sand fly, and the sailors were putting out
					all our anchors. It is now quiet, and the night brilliant. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000217" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 17th. 9 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The men began rowing this morning soon after four o’clock, but by 8 o’clock the
					north wind was so strong we were forced to anchor near a sand bank, where we are
					now reposing, within sight of Keneh, where we intend stopping. Life on deck </p>
				<pb n="103"/>

				<p>has been impossible today, except for walking - and that was not agreeable
					because of the sand and wind. It is quiet now. A busy, nice indoors day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000218" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, Feb. 18. 10 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Brought up at Keneh about 8 o’clock this morning, and after breakfast Theodore
					and I, with Amelie and Jones rode into Keneh, just because the day was so fine,
					and the town rather worth seeing. Donkeys always good, and reads good - a
					charming ride - everything, town and all, looking as if they came out of the
					Arabian Nights. After lunch we crossed the river to Denderah - and went out to
					the temple. Rameses the Third, and dahabeah Tih passed down today. Moved off at
					5 o’clock and made several miles. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000219" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 19th. 15 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A beautiful day, but a strong north wind. We passed Dishnah at 11 o’clock - but
					had to go to a sand bank at one o’clock - where we are still lying - with the
					north wind carousing as usual. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000220" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 20. 5 miles.</title></p>
				<p>A light head wind this morning carried us along for an hour or two, when we had
					to take to the bank - where we stayed until 6 o’clock, when we made a little
					progress - altogether about 5 miles we think. A cold wind raged all day - and we </p>
				<pb n="104"/>

				<p>had to stay below. Gazelle seen in the distance behind us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000221" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 21. 20 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Started at 7 o’clock, and by steady rowing passed Kasr as Sayd at 9 o’clock. The
					place where we came to grief on the stones was plainly visible today. Sand and
					loose stones were showing in many places - passed Hou at 10:30 that wretched
					village, with its ruinous mosque high up on its bank, and falling to pieces in
					the river. Arrived at Nagh Hamadi too late - the bridge closing at 12 o’clock -
					and had to wait until 3 o’clock for it to open. we drew up against the barge
					close to the bridge and waited, sending for our mail. Good news from everywhere
					- especially from South Africa - a despatch announcing the relief of Kimberly
					under Lord Roberts. The sun very hot all day, but wind cold. Sat on deck all the
					afternoon, enjoying the beauty of the river, and the great mountain mass of
					Gebel et Taif, below Nagh Hamadi. Came through the bridge at 3 o’clock, and made
					8 miles. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000222" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Feb. 22d.</title></p>
				<p> A very still warm morning, with occasionally a very light wind. Drew up to
					Balliana about 12 o’clock and found the “Zenet-el Nile” lying there with the
					American flag, and a Mr. Thorn and family from Tacoma, state of Washington - and
					the “Tih” just putting out. She dropped her anchor on seeing us, and the boys
					came over in their felucca to get the scarabs Theodore got for them the other
					day in Luxor, with </p>
				<pb n="105"/>

				<p>which they were delighted. After lunch, in spite of the heat, Theodore and Alice
					went out to Abydes to see Fr. Flinders Petrie and the tombs of the I dynasty he
					has found. They did not find it as interesting as they had hoped, and came home
					after 6 o’clock desperately tired with their bad donkeys - and thinking it had
					not paid, and we lost the fine south wind which blew all the afternoon, and the
					fun of going down with the “Tiy”. Nettie and I tried to stay on deck, but found
					it so hot, and the flies intolerable, and the noisy natives and children were
					insufferable. Abydos is a detestable place at which to lie - I feel so chagrined
					that I forget that today was Washington’s birthday. I have thought of it for
					several days - and have said to myself, “now don’t forget to give the order to
					have the ship dressed, and an extra dinner”, - and then I proceeded to forget
					it! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000223" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, Feb. 23. 5 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We made but little progress today - for the north wind got up in a furious
					manner, and about 9 o’clock we were driven to a sand bank where we had to stay
					until 6 o’clock - when we managed to move across the river to a better
					anchorage, and tied up for the night. It was impossible to go on deck, and I
					never saw the sand so bad - it came in through every crack and crevice. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000224" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, Feb. 24.</title></p>
				<p> We are lying just where we did last night, having been held here by one of the
					worst gales I ever saw on the river. We were fortunately </p>
				<pb n="106"/>

				<p>more out of the reach of the sand than yesterday. The waves have been like those
					of a moderate sea - and the boat so shaken by the wind that writing was
					difficult. All is quiet now, and we hope to get off tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000225" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Quinquagesima Sunday, Feb. 25. 3 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We got within a mile of Girgeh this morning by 10 o’clock. A cold north wind
					still blowing. Theodore Nettie and Alice walked into the town. I preferred our
					own clean deck for my exercise - and found the wind very cold. We could not move
					until 6 o’clock when we dropped to a nice little beach two miles below the town.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000226" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Feb. 26.</title></p>
				<p> Are lying just where we brought up last night. North wind howling all day -
					clouds very black and threatening. It rained last night hard, and there was a
					leak in my room. Quiet tonight, and we hope for a change of weather tomorrow.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000227" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 27. 15 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Got off early this morning - quite in the night in fact. The wind came up as
					usual with the light - and floating, rowing and lying by, we brought up within 2
					miles of Akmim. Cool. </p>
				<pb n="107"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000228" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 28. Ash Wednesday. 14 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Again we made an early start some time in the night, and pulled up to Sohag at 6
					o’clock. We got our mail and were off after breakfast - and stopped at 6 o’clock
					- river very bad. Shocked to read of Mr. Bond’s death in the papers - pneumonia.
					My mind has been full of that bereaved family all day. Cold. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000301" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, March 1st. 43 miles.</title></p>
				<p> A charming day - men began rowing at 5 o’clock this morning - and at 8 o’clock a
					light sound wind began and has lasted with intervals of intense calm all day.
					The sun has been hot, but such a delicious cool air, that life was a pleasure. I
					have been on deck all day. We have had a double awning spread. Passed Tahtah at
					10 o’clock - 15 miles from our stopping place of last night. Passed Gaou at 2
					o’clock, 12-1/2 miles, and came to Aboutig by 6:30, - 14-1/2 miles. We have had
					some exciting moments today. I was wakened at 6 this morning by a great bump on
					the sand, but we stuck only a moment. I got up and looked out of my window and
					saw a pink and red river, with such a network of sand banks, that a way through
					them seemed impossible. Indeed the spectacle of the river today has been
					astounding. In one place the natives were bringing their camels to the river
					with huge water skins on their backs - and one hardly sees the women with their
					water jars now - so far have the villages retired from the water. Came up with
					the “Tih” about 3 o’clock - sticking in the sand, and young Terry and Tytus out
					shooting pigeons on the sand. We are lying anchored </p>
				<pb n="108"/>

				<p>almost in the middle of the river which I like very much. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000302" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, March 2. 19 miles.</title></p>
				<p>This has been our warmest and stillest day. We reached Assiut at noon - having
					come through many a difficult place, without touching. Theodore and Alice rode
					into the town to the P.O. We had to wait for oil, butter, yeast, etc. and could
					not get off until 6 o’clock, when we came 4 miles - getting safe away from the
					smoke and noise of the barrage works. A great stretch of sand lies before Assiut
					- so that boats cannot directly approach her now - a handsome river front the
					town has. Ramesis the Great came down, and stayed awhile. The “Antar” appeared,
					Mr. Somers-Clarke having gone by rail to Aswân, and will rejoin his boat at
					Assiut. And the “Tih” appeared just as we were leaving. It has been very hot all
					day - and the flies vicious - though none in the boat. The new moon appeared
					this evening. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000304" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 1st in Lent. March 4th. 40 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The hottest day we have had this year 93° on my cabana. A good south wind all day
					- too strong at times for the dangerous condition of the river. Passed Hadji
					Kandul, Tel el Amazna, Melawi, and Kodah about 6 o’clock, having been detained a
					mile above it, by the high wind. The Antar, having a keel, was able to hold up
					against it, sailed past us, and was lost to sight. It is getting rather
					unpleasant on the river, the banks are so high, we see </p>
				<pb n="109"/>

				<p>but little of the country. And the enormous stretches of sand everywhere. Just
					after leaving Redah we saw a strange sight. The channel was narrow, and a cast
					stretch of sand, on which there lay the remains of a large iron boat, that our
					Rais told us was lost 20 years ago, during Ismail Pasha’s life time. All the
					sailors travelling up and down the Nile have known the whereabouts of this
					wreck, but it has never been seen until the last two or three weeks! In fact the
					bottom of the river can be seen everywhere - piles of rocks cropping up here and
					there, and various wrecks revealed. A beautiful cool evening, after the heat of
					the day - and a nice little moon, already giving much light and with Venus
					resplendent very near her. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000305" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 5th. 7 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We found ourselves nearer Beni Hassan this morning than we supposed last night,
					for starting at 7 o’clock, we found ourselves at Beni HAssan at 8 o’clock - but
					did not stop as the morning was hot and calm - but before we had gone a mile
					from the landing, the sky clouded, the wind came out from the north and we were
					forced to seek the shelter of a high bank, from which we did not stir until 6
					o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000306" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 6th. Collossaneh. 32 miles.</title></p>
				<p>One of the warmest days we have had - reached Minieh at 11 o’clock - had to
					anchor out in the river, as a great stretch of sand lies far out from shore. All
					the rest went into town for mail and </p>
				<pb n="110"/>

				<p>provisions. I preferred the quiet boat all to myself, and the time seemed short
					before they were all back again, and we were off - reaching Collossaneh about 7
					- our moon now gives a beautiul light. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000307" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 7th. 12-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The very hottest day I have known - the glass at 93 and not a clear atmosphere -
					very like a Ramseen though the wind was not from the south. Overtook the “Maat”
					and the “Antar” above Shekh Fadl. Mr. Somers-Clarke still in Aswân. Came to Abu
					Girga soon after 6 o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000308" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, Mar. 8. 22-1/2 miles.</title></p>
				<p>The day began very still and hot and we thought we would have rain or a Ramseen.
					The wind grew so strong that we had to drop both anchors about 10:30 to save us
					from a stony bank. Lost sight of the Faat. Antar pulled into shore just behind
					us. We lay in the water, the wind buffeting us about, the sand flying over us
					until 6 o’clock when we were able to pull by an anchor in to shore. Wind still
					howling from the north, and cooler. A perfect procession of gyassas bound up,
					whizzing past us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000309" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, March 9th.</title></p>
				<p> Still lying where we were last night - sand drifting over us - wind howling - a
					great gale from the north going on. We hope for a change tomorrow. </p>
				<pb n="111"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000310" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, March 10th.</title></p>
				<p> The most dreadful day I have ever spent in Egypt! we are still lying where we
					brought up day before yesterday. The wind is still howling, though not quite as
					bad as during the day. It has rained lightly much of the time, which with the
					dust, made everything outside very dirty. Have not had my nose out of the door.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000311" type="Entry">
				<p><title>2d Sunday in Lent. Mar. 11th.</title></p>
				<p> Still lying where we have spent the last 3 days and the storm has been even more
					severe, -for we dragged our anchors. Our little stoves have come again into
					welcome use. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000312" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, March 12.</title></p>
				<p>We made a mile early this morning, when the wind again burst upon us and we had
					to pull up: in a better place however, as we have had little sand. The sun very
					bright all day, but wind cold - with a touch of early spring day in the north,
					which was very pleasant. On Saturday we sent the Dervish, our third officer as
					we called him, a splendid blue black Nubian from Aswân who has been with us for
					four years, down to Wasta for our mail; he did not get back until late
					yesterday, something being wrong with the trains. He must have suffered with the
					cold, as he had to sleep on the steamer landing, with no warm coverings. Again,
					good and reassuring news from S. Africa. One stronghold after another giving way
					before Lord Roberts, and the Beers retreating towards their own borders. </p>
				<pb n="112"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000313" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, March. 13. 22 miles.</title></p>
				<p>Quite the most exciting day I ever spent on the Nile. The men began rowing at 3
					o’clock, the moon being almost full. A little after 4 o’clock we struck the sand
					with a good whack, and then the boat swung about over the sand slowly, seeming
					as if she would grind her bottom off. It must have been 5 minutes before she
					settled. Then another 5 or 10 minutes before the sailors swung her off. I got up
					and looked out of my window, and there were the men knee deep in the water
					pushing and struggling. Then we anchored until daylight. I dosed and wakened,
					and at 6:30 get up and looked out. We were passing Feshen - and I saw one of
					Cooks large steamers lying at the town, closed and abandoned until the
					inundation comes. I could not see her name, as we were swinging round - but then
					there was a sight! We were almost on top of the Mayflower of the Anglo-American
					line, which was fast aground in the middle of the river - and between 20 and 30
					gyassas all aground here and there - and a little farther on, the “Ramses the
					Third” fast on the sand, and quite in the Channel. I I called Theodore to come
					and look, it was such an extraordinary spectacle. Very little sand showing - the
					river very broad and channel very doubtful. Then I found that the “Tih”, the
					“Maat” and the “Antar” had come behind us, and were all waiting to find a way.
					It did not take us long, and we got safely by them all - when Amelie brought me
					my tea at 7:30 she told me that the little tug waiting near was for the Maat -
					that the Mayflower had been aground some hours, and the “Rameses the Third” had
					been there two days - having spent 3 days on the sand near Wasta. A </p>
				<pb n="113"/>

				<p>gentle south wind was blowing, and we went on very well, until making a difficult
					turn about a long sand bank protruding almost across the river about 11 o’clock-
					the wind which had grown strong and fitful carried us on the sand and held us
					there for 3 hours, - blowing very hard. About 1 o’clock the Maat and her tug
					passed us and soon disappeared, and we began to regret that we had not ordered a
					tug on Sunday, when we sent to Wasta for our mail. Just over the bank near us
					one of the big Imfikiah steamers lay up almost high and dry on the sand, closed
					and deserted. At 5 o’clock we got away and kept on until 7 - when we pulled up
					in sight of Benisoef. The river has been a spectacle today - a woful one.
					Beautiful air - colour effects - and radiant night - did not leave the deck
					until 7 o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000314" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, March 14. 27 miles.</title></p>
				<p>We have done today what I have seen done in descending the river - the men have
					towed! The wind has been light and fitful - the river very dubious - and many
					gyassas - and our progress has been difficult and wearying. At breakfast time we
					were going so finely that we expected to make Wasta by 12 o’clock. We did not
					reach it until 4 o’clock - Jones went off in the felucca to get out mail, and
					Theodore sent a telegram to Cook and Son, for a tug. For the first time I feel a
					little tired of the river - not of the pleasant placid life we lead in this
					delightful little boat, but of the delays the dangers and anxieties that this
					condition of the river brings. We are having the most heavenly nights, with a
					full moon. My windows are all </p>
				<pb n="114"/>

				<p>left unshaded, and I revel in the moonlight, and the desert scenes. Cold this
					A.M. in my room - 52 at 7 o’clock. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000315" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, March 15.</title></p>
				<p>30 miles before tug arrived. 20 “ with tug to Cairo. A warm day, with wind from
					South - coming out north about noon. At 3:20 we saw the tug coming, but were
					uncertain if she was coming for us. We found our little old Rais Achmed on her,
					our old Captain of the Nubia - who gladly hailed us. Our men put away their oars
					with smiles and great alacrity - and we were soon rushing along free from
					painful outlooking. We were within sight of Helouan, but it was nearly and hour
					before we reached it - and tied up awhile to make a visit to Mr. Sayce, who is
					lying there. We found him and Professor Schweinfurth on the bank, and they both
					came aboard and had tea with us. The latter is staying at Helwan - and told us
					such interesting things. We reached Cairo at 7:30 - and found our old place at
					the Museum vacant. Mr. Sayce told us of a such a sad and painful thing which
					occurred on the Maat, Lord Northampton’s boat, the morning after we left them at
					Maghagha - the young Doctor he had with him, was found dead in his bed! </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000316" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, March 16.</title></p>
				<p> At home all day, busy and interested - a good mail arrived this morning, with no
					bad news - and splendid news from S. Africa. Lord </p>
				<pb n="115"/>

				<p>Roberts is relieving one place after another, and the Boers everywhere
					retreating. Theodore at the Museum this morning, and the girls in town. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000317" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, March 17.</title></p>
				<p> Busy this morning with Amelie over the trunks which arrived from Shepheards this
					morning. Mr. and Mrs. Joe Smith to lunch. Alice and I drove almost to the Mena
					House this afternoon. The air most delicious with the fragrance of the
					blossoming alfalfa - but the wind very cold. A lovely night. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000318" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 3d in Lent. March 18th.</title></p>
				<p> At home all the morning. Baron von Bissing came to lunch. He told us very
					interesting things of Petrie’s discovered at Abydos, tombs of the I dynasty -
					which confirm the fact of the tomb discovered at Nagada supposed to be that of
					Menes to be really that. This afternoon Theodore and I drove into town to have
					tea with Dean and Mrs. Butcher. Found Mr. Sayce there, and had tea in the garden
					behind the church. Then we drove to Shepheards, and got out mail, and a pail of
					ice cream and then the Ghizereh Palace to see about rooms for Wednesday. We
					decided on our old Khedivial apartment. The men are having a great concert
					tonight. I have been walking on deck in the superb moonlight, and looking down
					at them as they sat about on the deck, with their darabookras, and tamborines,
					Salah the singer making great effects: The little stove burning, and the lamp
					hanging over Sulyman’s table where he is ironing. Such a nice scene. </p>
				<pb n="116"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000319" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, Mar. 19th.</title></p>
				<p> Home all day. Mr. Sayce came to lunch and did not leave until late - a pleasant
					visit - Nettie and Alice drove out to the Mena House for tea - and Monsieur
					Maspere and his wife came to tea, and sat very late until Theodore returned from
					his ride. Very busy between times arranging and getting ready to have the
					packing done. The Tranttenbergs also called. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000320" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, March 20.</title></p>
				<p> Packing all day. Mr. and Mrs. John Bancroft, who have been staying a long time
					at Helouan came to lunch and were delighted with the boat and our accounts of
					life on the river. Theodore and I spent a pleasant morning at the Museum.
					Brugsch Bay paid us a visit in the afternoon. Our last evening on the dear
					Beduin for this season - always a melancholy thing. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000321" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, March 21st.</title></p>
				<p> We are again installed in the vast Khedivial appartment at the Ghezireh - having
					arrived this afternoon in time for tea - just after breakfast Baron and Baroness
					Tranttenberg arrived at the boat, and invited us for dinner on Saturday. It has
					been warm today, and I am quite tired with all the parting arrangements at the
					dahabeah. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000322" type="Entry">
				<p><title> Thursday, March 22.</title></p>
				<p> At home all this morning writing letters - ad in the afternoon </p>
				<pb n="117"/>

				<p>we all drove out to the Pyramids. The day was a grey one, and not warm, an ideal
					day for the desert - there was no glare from the sand - and the effects were
					fine - I never saw the Sphinx to such advantage. Tea at the Mena House, which
					was filed with officers - as the yearly encampment is now in the desert beyond
					the Pyramids - so that the scene on the terrace was very gay. The ride home was
					charming. Mrs. Tytys and her son, and young Terry came over from Shepheards, to
					dine with us, and were greatly amused and interested in our regal appartments.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000323" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, March 23.</title></p>
				<p> Drove into town with Theodore, and tried to do a little shopping. No one dares
					now to go into the bazaar, because of the rumours of small pox. Alice and Nettie
					went early in to town to see the dervishes and Theodore and I drove out beyond
					Koubbeh - where I have not been for years, Cairo has grown enormously winthin
					the last few years in this direction. The Fhedives palace at Koubbeh seems a
					simple affair surrounded by large grounds apparently under fine cultivations -
					and beautiful green fields of wheat, barley, and alfalfa stretching away as far
					as one could see - the finest crops I have seen in Egypt this year. It was a
					delicious afternoon. We stopped at Shepheard’s for the mail, and it being late
					had tea there - and then drove back to the Ghezireh Palace, and well pleased we
					were to exchange the pure air here for the bad air of Cairo. </p>
				<pb n="118"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000324" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, March 24.</title></p>
				<p> Drove with Theodore to the dahabeah this morning to arrange some things. Jones
					and Amelie have been busy there for days - so that all inside the boat is in its
					summer condition. How I hated to leave the little boat - and then came the final
					parting with the men, who were all on the lower deck - standing and waiting. I
					shook hands with everyone of them, and said many “ma salams”. We are quite
					distressed with Hais Fuli, who has not been well all winter - Theodore sent him
					to Dr. Sandwith with a note. We have been dining with the Tranttenbergs - many
					charming things in their house. I like much the Baron - who is the Austrian
					representative in the Cours de la Dette for Egypt. There were many beautiful
					things in their appartment in the way of bric-a-brac and some really good things
					of the Baroness’s who is something of a genius as a deller. What an
					extraordinary character she is - a cordial, enthusiastic most likely insincere
					woman of the world, Russian by birth, with a married daughter and grandchildren,
					and with very remarkable manners to our thinking. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000325" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, 4th in Lent. March 25.</title></p>
				<p> The day has been very hot - Khamsiny - with a wonderful marching of clouds and
					dissolving mists. I have not been out - having some writing to do - and feeling
					the heaviness of the atmosphere. some arrangements for packing, writing and
					reading occupied the morning. Every one else was out - and I had our vast salon
					all to myself - morning and afternoon. It is 40 x 45 feet - very lofty and
					magnificent </p>
				<pb n="119"/>

				<p>with five great windows - 3 of them spaning on a balcony, overlooking the river.
					After the man left this side of the house, I set them wide open all the 5 of
					them - and it was indeed charming - the garden seemed to have entered into the
					house - and I enjoyed it immensely, and had quite a walk up and down, after
					finishing my letters. The room is splendidly furnished in true Oriental
					magnificence - all the rich, velvet and satin furniture with the Khedivial crown
					is mounted in gild elaborately . The chimney piece reaching to the ceiling is of
					alabaster, onyx-malachite and gilt, enornous mirrors, and everything to
					correspond. My bed room adjoining is all in red fluted silk - walls, ceiling and
					all. The bedroom that Nettie and Alice share together is equally huge, and was
					the Khedivo’s - and his bathroom adjoining, has a great tin tub, made to
					represent silver, with his crown - all the rest of the rooms correspond. It was
					built by the Khedivo Ismail, of evil memory, the grandfather of the present
					Abbas II and is not owned by the International Hotel Co. His full length
					portrait adorns the salon - I must say the appartment is a bit “eerie”, for
					certain mysterious crimes are associated with the palace. Baron von Bissing
					dined with us - and young Tytus and Terry came to say goodbye. We leave at 9
					o’clock tomorrow morning for Alexandrea, and sail at 4 o’clock for Naples, an
					the Kaiser Wilhelm II. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000330" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Hotel Bristol. Rome. March 30th.</title></p>
				<p> It was a beautiful warm morning last Monday when we drove away from the Gezireh
					Palace Hotel, with our hands full of flowers the </p>
				<pb n="120"/>

				<p>kind Luigi had presented us with. At the station Salah, our good Abdul the
					splendid blue black Dervish, Hasoun and little Ismain, and even our grand
					detested Cook came to say goodbye. Your Tytus and Terry also came to see us off.
					The very dustiest railway I ever had, under a Khamseen. Luncheon at the
					Khedivial and a very had one too - then a long row out to the steamer, with Mr.
					Kidder with us. Our rooms, Nettie’s, Alice’s and mine, on the after deck were
					big and comfortable, and the sea was smooth - but the hours were long - and we
					were happy to arive at Naples on Thursday morning about 10 o’clock in a pouring
					rain, a wet landing and a very good luncheon at the Hotel de Londres, to save
					the long drive to the Grand - and off for Rome at 3 o’clock - a most beautiful
					ride - mountains, plains, illuminated by the burst of brilliant sunshine and
					heavy storm clouds - the mountains white with snow. Are in our pleasant old
					appartment here - and so “comfy”. It has poured with rain today - the others
					have been out all day. I at home. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000331" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, March 31st.</title></p>
				<p> It stormed all night and was raining at intervals this morning so I did not go
					out until the afternoon, when the rain ceased. We drove to the Villa Berghese,
					and had a delightful afternoon with the pictures. I came away chilled to the
					bone, and was glad to reach home and a fire and a hot cup of tea. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000401" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, April 1st.</title></p>
				<p> The rain poured all night, with much thunder and lightning - and the morning was
					so bad, Theodore would not go out - nor did I venture </p>
				<pb n="121"/>

				<p>The girls took the carriage and drove to the Lateran and Maggiori. The afternoon
					was better, and at 4 o’clock we drove over to St. Peters. I don’t know when I
					have enjoyed St. Peters so much - though music was not so good as usual. As Leo
					XIII, the present Pope celebrates this year his 90th birthday, the city is full
					of pilgrimages - and it is said that Rome never was so full. The church had more
					people in it than I had ever before known - and among them a band of pilgrims
					from Moravia, in their picturesque costumes - the women with skirts to their
					knees, and high boots like the men - their heads tied up in bright
					handkerchiefs. The men were splendid, stalwart looking fellows - a hardy, rather
					refined looking race - very cold today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000402" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 2d.</title></p>
				<p> We have had a whole beautiful day, and we celebrated the morning by driving out
					on the Appian Way. The air was so crisp - so almost wintry - and had such an
					effect of being washed so clean, that I realized I had not felt anything like it
					for 5 years. The larks were singing up in the sky - and the blackbirds on the
					trees - and the deep blue Alban Mountains and Mt. Soracte, covered with snow
					were beautiful. After luncheon I went out with the girls for a while, and then
					Theodore took them to drive in the Doria Pamfili grounds. Lady Agnes de Trafford
					and Mr. de Trafford, wiht his sister Miss de Trafford, dined with us - and we
					had a merry dinner. </p>
				<pb n="122"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000403" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 3d.</title></p>
				<p> Another cold, very cold showery day. We drove over to the Vatican to the
					sculptures - and spent the whole morning there, coming home petrified. Met the
					de Traffords there. This afternoon after a heavy shower, the sun coming out, we
					ventured forth to the Patheon, which was closed. By that time the rain began
					again, but we tried the interesting church of S. Maria Sopea Minerva - but found
					it too dark to see.Then we drove to Santa Cecilia - but found that closed, as
					they are doing a great deal of excavating there - of most interesting character.
					Then we drove back, and tried one or two antiquity shops, and then in disgust
					came home, and had tea in our pleasant sitting room, before a little wood fire,
					and watched a splendid sunset. tonight the 3 days old moon is resplendent in a
					clear sky - and Venus brilliantly beautiful near her. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000404" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, April 4th.</title></p>
				<p> To the Capitol Museum this morning, where we stayed until we were petrified with
					the cold. Then we went into the Ara Coeli, which is always impressive with its
					beautiful old pavement, its Cosmatesque pulpits and its many curious grave
					slabs. In the afternoon in spite of the cold threatening weather, we drove out
					to S. Paolo fuora le Mura. I sat in the carriage while the others went into
					church, whose chill I did not feel like risking. Coming back we stopped at the
					very curious little church of S. Maria in Cosmedin - and to what is generally
					called the Temple of Vesta, the circular church of S. Maria in Sola; then drove </p>
				<pb n="123"/>

				<p>to the old fram men’s in Via Gregorians to settle with him about 4 lovely old
					frames Theodore has bought of him. Then we drove to the Palasse Borghese to have
					tea with Mrs. Bronson. Mrs. Woodsworth had also invited us - but we had accepted
					Mrs. Bronson’s invitation. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000405" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 5th.</title></p>
				<p> The morning being fine, we availed ourselves of the permits Lady Agnes had sent
					us, and went to the Vatican Gardens - and had a good walk there. They have
					always been mysterious in their attraction, and I was very glad to see them. But
					sadly disappointed we were. We met the de Traffords with some others there. Did
					a little shopping on our way home. Did not go out this afternoon. Theodore took
					Alice to various places. Young Mr. Watmore came to tea. It has rained at
					intervals today., coldy tonight. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000406" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, April 6th.</title></p>
				<p> Went out into the rain this morning with Theodore to see a Sienese painting that
					Monsieur Imbert wishes Theodore to buy - a Matteo di Gualdo - a triptych - a
					very charming picture, not entirely in good condition - possibly Theodore will
					buy it. Then we drove to the church of S. Pietro in Vincolo - and had a lovely
					look at the “Moses” by Michelangelo. Then to the Doria gallery to see the great
					Velasquox. At home all the afternoon, rain and cold winds. Ethel Bronson came to
					say boodgye - and so did Mr. de Trafford and Lady Agnes. Mr. John Parsons </p>
				<pb n="124"/>

				<p>of New York and Mary, who arrived today came in to see us this evening. They
					succeed to our rooms tomorrow. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000407" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, April 7th. Grand Bretagne. Florence.</title></p>
				<p> A cold wet morning - left Rome at 9:30 arrived at 2:30 - and went to the Grand
					Hotel where we had engaged rooms, but found them so impossible that we declined
					them and came here, where we are most comfortably settled in our old rooms. Went
					to have tea with Lizzie and the girls - and enjoyed ourselves much. Rex wild
					with delight to see Nettie again. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000408" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday - before Easter. April 8th.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore and I went by engagement up to Mrs. Costellar’s place for lunch -
					leaving Alice at Lizzie’s. A cold wet morning, with occasional bursts of
					sunshine, which about noon dispelled the clouds. We found Miss Berenson, Mr.
					Pearsall-Smith, and an English lady and gentleman with Mrs. Costellar and
					Berenson. A delicious lunch - and much pleasant talk. Mrs. Costellar never
					looked as well and womanly. She and Berenson announced their engagement, and
					will be married in the autumn. Mary and Alice came to fetch us, about 4 - and we
					walked over to Berenson’s house to see all his choice and pretty things. Stopped
					at the Villino, and had tea with Lizzie - and she and Mary came to dine with us,
					Nettie having a bad cold. </p>
				<pb n="125"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000409" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 9th.</title></p>
				<p> I went by appointment to the dentist’s this morning - and then drove about a
					little. Berenson took us after lunch to see some pictures on loan, at the
					exposition of modern art. A small room beautifully hung with tapestries, had a
					few beautiful pictures - and a most charming Desiderio of an infant Christ and
					St. John. A interesting Crivelli and a most exquisite Madonna and Child labelled
					“Pur della Francesca” but which Berenson said was by Baldevivetti. Then we drove
					to an antiquity shop - and then to Constantini’s and then to tea with Lizzie.
					Berenson and his sister dined with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000410" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 10th.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore, Nettie and I went to the Bargelle this morning and stayed nearly 2
					hours - coming out quite petrified. It is to me always one of the most
					delightful things to do in Florence, - the marbles are so delightful. Berenson
					came to lunch. Afterwards we drove to Brauer’s one of the most artistic and
					interesting antiquaries I have ever seen. Theodore bought 2 beautiful quatre
					cento bronzes - and an ivory Madonna and Child - said to have been made by Nino
					de Pisano. Afterwards to Lizzie’s for tea. Young Constantini dining with us
					tonight. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000411" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, April 11th.</title></p>
				<p> I went up with the carriage to Lizzie’s this morning after it had been taken
					Theodore and Alice to the Pitti, intending to take Nettie and Rex to drive - but
					found them all out. Then I did some shopping - </p>
				<pb n="126"/>

				<p>and ran across Mary. Berenson and his sister came to lunch - then we went to
					Bardini’s - the Berensons, Nettie and I, and then came back for Theodore and
					went to Ban Lorenze - to the Church and old Saeriety - then up to Berensons
					place and had tea - a lovely, clear day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000412" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 12.</title></p>
				<p> At home this morning - Mrs. Pearsall-Smith and his friend from Oxford, Mr.
					Meller came to lunch. Afterwards we went to Brauers and spent a long time there,
					looking at his treasures - stopped at Lizzie’s for tea - Mr. Cadman came from
					Rome to see Theodore, and he and Constantini dined with us - I have a cold, and
					am thoroughly tired. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000414" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, April 14th.</title></p>
				<p> I spent all day yesterday in bed with one of my usual bronchial attacks - and
					have not been out of the house today. The weather is charming too - and I feel
					very cross about staying in. Since the noon gun fired today, the bells all over
					the city have been ringing their melodious chimes much of the time. I so love
					their sweet sounds, and never tire of it. The moon is full tonight and makes the
					river, and the old bridge and the towers and picturesque houses opposite
					beautiful. Constantini dined with us, and is now playing chose with Theodore.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000415" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Easter Sunday, April 15.</title></p>
				<p> A most lovely Easter day this has been - Theodore and I went up to San Minato
					this morning, and sat there a long time in the sun, </p>
				<pb n="127"/>

				<p>which was really too warm. I did not dare venture into the church, much as I
					wanted - because of my cold. We had the place quite to ourselves, only a few
					faithful ones with wreathes and flowers crossing before the church to the
					graveyard beyond. A heavenly peace over everything. This afternoon I made a
					stupid drive and excursion under Constantini’s suggestion, and visited a certain
					villa, which is to be sold and which Theodore was anxious to see. I had expected
					to see an Italian villa - but my disappointment was great when I found a big,
					pretentious place, with little that was Italian about it - overlaid and crammed
					with things in bad French, and Chinese. It belongs to a rich Russian, who has
					lavished thousands upon it - and I did not see a thing I would have had, and
					nothing would induce me to live in such a house. Berenson dined here, and has
					just gone home. Mr. and Mrs. Stevens lunched with us. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000416" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 16th.</title></p>
				<p> Stayed in the house all day - my cold no better. Miss Berenson came to say
					goodbye, and dear Lizzie came and had tea with me. Mary also, has been in bed
					for two days - so that we have not been able to say goodbye. Nettie goes with us
					to London, for which we are so glad, Mary not being able to travel with is. Mr.
					and Mrs. Stevens came to say goodbye. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000417" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 17th. Hotel Brittania - Venice.</title></p>
				<p> We left Florence in a rain at 11:30 and it poured harder and </p>
				<pb n="128"/>

				<p>harder as the day went on. It was impossible to see out of the windows; arrived
					in Venice at 6 o’clock - fortunately the rain had stopped though everything was
					dripping - this has not improved my cold. We were greatly annoyed to find that
					we could not get into our appartment until tomorrow morning, as the people (
					princely offenders) had decided to spend another day- and we are now distributed
					about the hotel. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000418" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, April 18.</title></p>
				<p> A wretched day in the house - we got into our regal rooms this morning and are
					very comfortable. The salon is a gorgeous room in red silk and gold - all the
					world abroad, except myself. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000419" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 19.</title></p>
				<p> Again in the house, while everyone else is sight seeing, - the sun shines, but
					the winds are very strong - and cold. The house resounds with sneezing and
					coughing. We find our next door neighbors are Mr. and Mrs. Lanfear Norrie - she
					came in this afternoon to see me. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000420" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, April 20th.</title></p>
				<p> Still in-doors, but much better, and hope to be out tomorrow. It has been a
					beautiful day, but with a cold wind. I was out in the sunshine on our balcony
					for awhile this morning - and I have been entranced watching the beautiful life
					of this most entrancing city. I have stared until my eyes were tired - the big
					steamers entering and leaving port, for we are just opposite the Custom House -
					the picturesque </p>
				<pb n="129"/>
				<p>red and orange sails of the boats - the countless gondolas swiftly slipping
					about, propelled by the graceful sweet of the gondeliers - and as the day
					declined, the exquisite reflections on the water, the palaces and the boats.
					What a lovely spectacle S. Maria Maggiori with its tall pink campanile, all
					seeming to grow out of the sea. The rest of the family are all down stairs
					listening to a concert of classical music given in the big dining room - and
					outside, the usual strumming of guitars and singing and impassioned, cracked
					quavering voices - though the boats are pretty enough with their coloured
					lights. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000421" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, April 21st.</title></p>
				<p> Went out this morning with Theodore to see some marbles - a strong wind blowing.
					We walked home, and lost our way and I was very tired. In the afternoon Alice
					and I went to San Marco - and stayed a long time - then had chocolate in a
					little shop. Quite tired out. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000422" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, April 22d.</title></p>
				<p> Stayed at home all day - feeling so little temptation to go out. The rest went
					to see the Bensons this afternoon and brought me some lovely flowers. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000423" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 23d.</title></p>
				<p> A summers day - we went to the church of S. Francesco della Vigna to see the
					beautiful Negroponte Madonna again - and a lovely Gian Bellini - hidden away
					behind glass and iron gauze - in a dark sacristy </p>
				<pb n="130"/>

				<p>What a pity it is that pictures of world wide interest, of inexpressible value
					and beauty, cannot be placed in safety and in a good light, and in accessible
					places. The church was so frigid, that I did not stay long, but went outside
					into the little Campo - where the children came to bother and beg, and try all
					their little arts of pleasing upon me - presently out from the church came a
					priest and acolyte bearing a censer and crucifix, followed by 2 men bearing a
					bier with such a little coffin which immediately diverted the children, and I
					was left to saunter up and down in peace in the sunshine. Then we went to S.
					Giovanni in Braggors, and passing on the way the little Schiavonis Church we
					heard music and found that this was the feast of St. George, and that a service
					was being held in the upper church - so we stopped and went in, and assisted for
					awhile at a domestic little service, with one splendid voice in the choir. Then
					we kept on our way to the Bragora through the evil smelling canals. There we
					found the church on festa, with a very good light upon the splendid Cima, above
					the altar, and the beautiful Ressurection of Alvise Vivarini’s and the
					Bartolomeo Vivarini Madonna with Chile sad Angels. The tide was very low this
					morning and the smells were inconceivable - indeed it seems to me Venice smells
					more vilely than usual. It is impossible to keep windows opened at night. This
					afternoon we had a delightful row in the Ginduca - which always interests me so
					- the place looks in a way so deserted, and the Riva so lonely with its strange
					big houses and their peculiar look. We turned into the charming little canal
					leading along the Fondamenta della Croce - and then back again </p>
				<pb n="131"/>

				<p>the people in their picturesque little houses living outside along the quiet
					street. One almost wished to be poor and live among them. I avoided the great
					cold Redentore church, and we kept on to the charming church of San Sebastiano
					where I was not allowed to stay very long, as the chill was deadly. Paul
					Veronese lies buried there, and the church and Sacristy are filled with his
					paintings. I walked about in the warm air along the pretty calle and watched the
					life about me - afterwards the rest went to the Piazetta for tea, but I wisely
					stopped at the hotel, and had tea alone. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000424" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, April 24th.</title></p>
				<p> In the house all the morning - Doctor came to see Alice who has a bad cold - we
					went out together in the afternoon and walked about the Piazetta and into St.
					Marks, and had tea a Florians. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000425" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, April 25.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore and I went out to see some marbles and stuffs this morning. It was cold
					and sometimes a soft rain fell. A beautiful regatta on the Grand Canal in honour
					of St. Marks day, which it is - Nettie and I went out early this afternoon to
					the Cathedral, all in festival attire it was. What a splendour of richness, or
					sumptuousness, of effect, of art this wonderful church is! The crowd this
					afternoon so picturesque, the lights so mellow and illuminating. There is
					nothing like it in the world - and what a quaint little exhibitions of human
					character I saw! Afterward we took up Theodore and went to see the Bensons.
					Found them </p>
				<pb n="132"/>

				<p>in the garden, which was a lovely wonder of tulips, forget-me-nots, and cherry
					blossoms - and old world surroundings of marbles, statues, and porticoes! The
					poor old lady so interesting, so full of enjoyment of her flowers. It is about
					the one pleasure she has left in life - lame, her arms and hands crippled with
					rheumatism, one eye destroyed from the effect of an accident years ago, she is
					most charming - with the espieglerie and manner of an old time woman of the
					world. She was so delighted with the seeds I sent her last year. Then we mounted
					to their appartment, and saw once more their charming rooms - full of beautiful
					things, such a grand hall - 135 ft. in length. It was cold and damp coming home.
				</p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000426" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, April 26.</title></p>
				<p> In doors all day - really ill - Alice in bed - doctor here. Theodore and Nettie
					gone on that beautiful expedition to Castel France to see the great Giorgione -
					and I raging with disappointment at not being able to go with them. A heavy
					thunder shower last night - and very high cold winds today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000427" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, April 27.</title></p>
				<p> Still indoors - but Alice and I are both up and in our big salon. Very dark,
					gray, stormy sky. We get off tomorrow for Milan. So glad, as I am tired staying
					here, and not doing the thousand charming things there are to do. </p>
				<pb n="133"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000429" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Sunday, April 29th.</title></p>
				<p><title>Milan - Hotel Cavour.</title></p>
				<p>We were all glad to quite Venice yesterday. I was tired of staying indoors in a
					place where there were so many ravishing things I wanted to see - and the
					weather was hopelessly bad. It was such a great disappointment for me not to be
					able to go to the Frori and to S. Giovanni a Paolo - where are the interesting
					tombs I have been reading about, and making notes of, for a year past. I had
					looked forward to seeing these with Nettie, in a more discriminating way than I
					had ever before seen them. But these 2 churches are the dampest and most frigid
					of any in Venice: and I could not go to them. Then there was Verona, with all
					its charms, and its own Gothic tombs. This visit which we had intended making,
					also had to be given up. We hope to get to Pavia from here for half a day at
					least. The journey yesterday by way of Padua, Vicenza, Verona, along the lower
					end of Lago di Garda, Brescia to Milan, was through a garden of Paradise, -
					hills, mountains, picturesque towns, formed a setting for the delicious
					landscape in dress of vivid greens - an fruit trees in blossom. Arrive at 7
					o’clock - and are in our old rooms at this most excellent of all hotels. Alice
					and I have again spent the day in the house as it has been raining much of the
					time. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000430" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, April 30th.</title></p>
				<p> It stormed heavily last night, and has been raining hard at times today. We
					leave tomorrow for Lucerne, and are anxiously hoping </p>
				<pb n="134"/>

				<p>that we may have good weather for that incomparable journey. We all went to the
					Poldi-Pezzoli this morning and revelled among the pictures. The garden was
					exquisite this morning as seen from the windows. After lunch Nettie and I went
					out in a comfortable landau - and did some charming things - bringing up in the
					arcade of our favorite photographers and I got a lot of views of Verona, and
					especially of its churches and tombs. It rained and the wind blew hard as we
					came home. Theodore with the girls then went off to a sacred concert given by
					Don Lorenzo Perosi, a priest, and a composer of beautiful music - and it was in
					the church of S. M. Bella Pace, which has been converted into a kind of oratory
					for his music. It was an Oratorio of Christ’s Entry into Jerusalem. Theodore and
					Nettie enchanted with the music - I was too tired to go. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000502" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Hotel National. Lucerne. Wednesday, May 2d.</title></p>
				<p> A very favourable day yesterday for the incomparable journey over the St.
					Gotthard. But it is always tiring - the attention is all the time so divided
					between so many wonderful sights. Alice was very ill last evening - and we felt
					very anxious, but she is much better today, and in the sitting room this
					evening. We have the same rooms we had last year, fronting the lake. My pleasant
					room at the corner of the house looking towards Mt. Pilatus - and the very same
					yellow bellied blackbird, sits on the same tree outside, and sings in the same
					delicious manner. The weather not quite clear - a great deal of snow on the mts.
					which under a hot sun always makes a misty atmosphere. </p>
				<pb n="135"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000503" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Lucerne. Thursday, May 3d.</title></p>
				<p> My sister-in-law Mary Rogers came over from Berne where she and Marie Clockure
					are staying, to spend the day and night with me. A great pleasure to both of us.
					It rained heavily, with thunder and lightning this afternoon - so that going out
					was impossible, though Mary and I had a walk of an hour before the hotel and
					along the quay. A wonderful light on the Mts. and lake - all in dark, dark blue.
					I never saw anything finer. Last evening we saw a light burning on Mt. Pilatus
					from the little house there I suppose. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000504" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Basle, Friday, May 4th.</title></p>
				<p> Mary Rodgers went back to Berne this morning. Then Theodore, Nettie and I went
					to Bossaras, where Theodore bought a most charming and interesting little
					painted wooden figure, which came from the Cathedral of Burgos in Spain - and
					bought the companion Spanish mirror of his own, to give to Mr. Ayer for his new
					house building in Boston. An early lunch, and then we started for Basle which we
					reached at 5 o’clock - coming to the “Trois Rois” where we are occupying an
					appartment at the corner of the house on the first floor which we had about 15
					years ago. The Baroness von Overbeck, Alice’s friend, came over from Freibourg
					to see her and dined with her. Alice will probably decide to stay with her until
					her father comes over next month. The river is very high and rapid. </p>
				<pb n="136"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000506" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Hotel Bristol. Sunday evening. London, May 6th.</title></p>
				<p> Yesterday morning we spent at the Museums and Cathedral and walked on the
					terrace - after lunch, which Mme. v. Overback took with us, Theodore and I went
					for a long drive along the river 12 miles away to the Hotel des Salines, where
					we had tea and walked about the grounds. The hotel is handsome and comfortable,
					the grounds rather German and small. Nettie too tired to drive, and Alice
					getting ready to go to Fribourg with her friend, we left them at home. The drive
					home on the German side of the river very charming. Mme. v. Overbeck, who was
					Miss Romain Goddard of Zanesville, Ohio, dined with us, and then she and Alice
					departed, and at 10 o’clock we drove to the station and took a very comfortable
					sleeping car for London - where we arrived at 6 o’clock this P.M. well tired and
					covered with dust, the crossing most comfortable. Are in our favorite appartment
					here on the 2d floor. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000507" type="Entry">
				<p><title>May 7th. Monday.</title></p>
				<p> Busy all day with tailors et cet. Mathilde Boal arrived from Paris this morning
					to stay until Friday. Mr. Gaspard Farrer called. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000508" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, May 8th.</title></p>
				<p> A delightful evening at the Majesty Theatre this evening. Midsummer Nights’
					Dream - and quite a perfect representation of the play. Everard Fielding here
					this afternoon for tea. </p>
				<pb n="137"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000509" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, May 9th.</title></p>
				<p> A dismal, erude, rainy day. Nettie and I went to the Strand Theatre this
					afternoon to see a play written by Bernhard Shaw - “You can never tell”. Very
					clever and amusing - and well played. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000511" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Friday, May 11th.</title></p>
				<p> Mathilde went back to Paris this morning - nothing of interest to chronicle for
					2 days. Fielding dined tonight with us. Weather wretched and cold. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000512" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, May 12.</title></p>
				<p>Theodore has gone with Fielding to the Newnham Paddox to spend Sunday with Lord
					Denbigh. We shopped this morning - and went to the National Gallery which was
					frigid. Mr. Hathbone came in the afternoon. The evening was dismally lonely
					without Theodore. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000514" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, 14 May.</title></p>
				<p> Theodore came home with a bad cold. The day has been wintry. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000519" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Saturday, May 19th.</title></p>
				<p><title> Royal Anchor Hotel. Liphook. </title></p>
				<p>We decided to come here again to spend Sunday - as Theodore has not seen it, and
					we were sure of the comforts of this little Inn. Gaspard Farrer came in time for
					dinner. We got down for lunch, and afterwards drove to Hindhead. No sunshine,
					and heavy clouds - view not </p>
				<pb n="138"/>

				<p>distinct of course. Theodore delighted with the drive, and with the grand views,
					that even the misty dull atmosphere gave. Comfortable, even pretty dinner in our
					cheerful sitting room. Little to chronicle of our movements during the week. All
					with bad colds - yet we have taken tea (having declined dinner) with the
					Hathbones - declined dinner at Sir Tm. Farrers - and gone with Gaspard Farrer to
					the most delightful concert I ever heard - one of the Philharmonics with Isayc
					as violinist - an inspired genius - with a touch that put one directly into
					paradise - delicious orchestra - well lead. Last night Fielding was dining with
					us - with a hoarse, coughing cold. About half past nine o’clock we heard some
					cries and calls in the street, and we distinguished the word Mafeking. In a
					moment we were all on our feet at the windows - and sure enough, the shouts were
					taken up, and grew into a rear, “relief of Mafeking”. Fielding hastily said
					goodnight, after vainly begging us all to go out with him - and just as we were
					going to bed, after 11 o’clock, came back, saying the town was wild, - that it
					was a spectacle not to be missed etc. We made him sit down and have some beer
					and biscuits, and then he was out again. This morning we heard from Jones, who
					was out most of the night, of all the excitement, and it makes one’s heart
					thrill, to think of that long besieged and suffering town, being relieved, and
					of that brave, resourceful hero - Col. Baden-Powell at last rescued. as enormous
					crowd last night besieged the house of mother-in-law, where his wife is living,
					and spent hours in cheering. It gives one a clutch at the heart to think of it! </p>
				<pb n="139"/>

			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000521" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Monday, May 21st.</title></p>
				<p> We came back from Liphook today - leaving on the 9:57 train. Nettie and I
					stepped over in Guildford, and made a visit to Mr. Leenard and his private
					Alpine garden - which I so enjoyed - took the 12 o’clock train to London, and
					home just in time for luncheon. Mr. Rathbone and his daughter lunched with us -
					and Sir William Farrer and his daughter came for tea - so that we are rather
					tired - London still wild with excitement - houses decorated with flags -
					illuminations and torch light processions. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000522" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, May 22d.</title></p>
				<p> Very busy alldday - Nettie went with Amelie and Jones to the Military Tournament
					- was delighted - we went to the Criterion and saw a most amusing play - “Lady
					Huntford’s Experiment” - well played. Rain yesterday and today. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000523" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Wednesday, May 23d.</title></p>
				<p> Another day of gloom and rain - Nettie and Fielding off on some lark this
					afternoon to see a Japanese play. Theodore and I went to tea with Miss Luling -
					after seeing the Temple Flower Show. Nettie’s last day. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000524" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, May 24.</title></p>
				<p> Nettie off early this A.M. Rain all day - very busy. Theodore and I had an hour
					this afternoon at the National Gallery - and I spent </p>
				<pb n="140"/>

				<p>almost the whole morning at the Flower Show - where I met Sir Wm. Farrer in his
					wheel chair with his two girls - what a show it was! and what colour! fruit,
					flower, foliage - and how admirably shown! We are off tomorrow ourselves! how
					glad I am to go! all confusion tonight with last things - still raining. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000531" type="Entry">
				<p><title>S.S. Kaiser Freidrich. Thursday, May 31st.</title></p>
				<p> Just a week ago since I made my last entry - a weary week - with long days and
					nights - and many hours to each one of the them! It was a cold and misty morning
					last Thursday when after an early breakfast Theodore and I drove in a hanson for
					Waterloo station. Amelie and Jones having preceeded us with luggage. London had
					not wakened up - though on our way down the Mall, under the trees, we met a nice
					English girl, followed by her groom, out for a morning drive. Quite a distance
					on the tender from Southampton to the steamer - and almost no passengers. The
					ship looked enormous as we came up to her. She is very large - and well arranged
					- her furniture and fittings in heavy German taste. I have a spacious, pleasant
					cabin, to which I feel not the slightest attachment, and am happy to think this
					is the last night I shall pass in it. The weather has been windy and wet - no
					incentive to be on deck - I have spent every day in my room until yesterday, I
					turned out for lunch and dinner - and again today. On deck a few moments this
					A.M. and then came in and wandered about, trying to decide which was the least
					loathly place to sit. Some old acquaintances of Theodore’s from Milwaukee are at
					our table - a brother of Mrs. Hagerman and his wife, daughter and father-in-law.
					We hoped to be in tomorrow morning, but it will not be possible - even had not
					the fog descended on us at noon as it did - and the fog horn is going
					constantly. It is a dismal sound - and I am putting off going to bed as late as
					I can. I count the days spent at sea as so much out of life! I hardly know how I
					would have dragged through these days without a book of Rider Haggards, “A
					Norfolk Farmer” - being a practical relation of years farming operations on his
					own farms - and things pertaining to the life of a country gentleman - a
					thoughtful, charming book - I have enjoyed every page. A great contrast to his
					novels, for which I do not care. I love everything connected with land, its
					interests and cultivation. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000603" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Newport -Whit. Sunday. June 3d, 1900.</title></p>
				<p> Once more at home, thankful and well! We got to our dock on Friday the 1st by 2
					o’clock. It was a sickeningly hot day - with an atmosphere so thick, that the
					fog whistle constantly sounded, though it was not a fog. Mary Newberry met us -
					and she and I went at once to the Holland, leaving Amelie and Jones with
					Theodore and the luggage and the Custom officers. There was no trouble or delay.
					We found Fifth Avenue given up to the Policemen’s Parade - and I found great
					difficulty in going about - the carriage being constantly blocked on 6th Avenue
					or Madison Avenue by the unusual traffic thrown upon them. The luggage did not
					get up in time for dinner, so we dined in our sitting room, in </p>
				<pb n="142"/>

				<p>our winter clothes! with John Froster and Mary M. and came here by the one
					o’clock train on Saturday. The country looked so charming - its peculiar New
					England features such a contrast to what we had just seen in Old England. There
					are so many quiet little farm houses, at the end of the estuaries putting in
					from the sea, standing with dignity under the shade of the great elms, which
					always attract me - and the homely orchards - the meadows - the trees - and as
					one gets into Rhode Island, the neighborhood of the sea, the great stretches of
					low birch, oak and other trees - with masses of rhododendrons and Kalinias in
					bloom. Our home coming was rather saddened by finding that the precious Toby had
					been taken 3 days before with a severe attack of rheumatism, and the Vet. had
					physicked him so mercilessly that he could only stir a feeble tail in
					recognition. I sent at once for Dr. Stanton, who put him on a course of rhus
					which even now seems to have helped him. The great excitement on getting home
					was to see the garden. The bills of labor and material had been so enormous that
					we were anxious to see how they were justified by results - and I don’t think
					Theodore or I had dared communicate our fears to each other. It was so late last
					night when we got here, that we could see nothing - and this morning at 5
					o’clock, being awakened by Toby, I slipped into my wrapper, and unlocking my
					door quietly, made the tour of the upper rooms to see it all - I could see
					enough to allay all my fears. How delicious the first dainty breakfast was, in
					the beautiful room - how glad everyone was to see us, how perfect and orderly
					the house was! as soon as we could we went out for a tour of inspection - and
					Theodore all prepared to come heavily </p>
				<pb n="143"/>

				<p>down on Brunton, was so enchanted that he could only pour forth congratulations
					and praise. The meadow has been in part transformed - I have a forest almost!
					everything judiciously associated - and I could only in the deepest depth of my
					heart, wish one or two things changed. It is a happy, bright thought all the
					time and I grudge the time I must give to other things. The weather is dark,
					cold and dull - a great deal of humidity in the air, and none in the earth -
					which is desperately in need of rain. I am wearing winter clothes - and we have
					fries in the library, hall, and dining room. Delicious to smell the fragrance of
					the wood smoke once more. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000605" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Tuesday, June 5th.</title></p>
				<p> Still cool - with fog. Thermometer went down to 45 last night. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000607" type="Entry">
				<p><title>Thursday, June 7.</title></p>
				<p> A lovely, bright day, which I have literally spend out of doors. Drove in to
					town yesterday afternoon - and saw Mrs. Norman and Mabel. Margaret La Farge came
					to tea - and this afternoon Mrs. Huntingdon - and walked about the place
					afterwards. Very damp, after 5 o’clock. The pictures came down from Worcester
					night before last, and Gus has them now all again in place. Mrs. Busk and Daisy
					to tea. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000701" type="Entry">
				<p><title>July 1st. Sunday.</title></p>
				<p> The season is truly extraordinary - cold, windy, and no rain. The local showers
					have hardly touched us. I fear it will go hard with </p>
				<pb n="144"/>

				<p>us in the garden. Our strawberries are still lasting - the first picking on June
					12, - magnificent. On the 24th we had our first peas. Mrs. Tytus and Miss Kulen
					arrived on the 8th and stayed 8 days. Mr. Dean here for 2 days. Bessie Whaling
					arrived on the 15th June. </p>
			</div>
			<div xml:id="EBA19000710" type="Entry">
				<p><title>July 10, Tuesday.</title></p>
				<p> We have had some warm weather lately - and a touch of several storms - very
					severe ones - which passed us by going up the bay. Still the drought holds - and
					all hands are busy at the hose - I fear for our new planting. The “4th” was a
					delicious day, warm and rather quiet, with a drynorth air coming from miles and
					miles of waste land of pines and birches and bayberry and other sweet things. It
					is Newport’s most delicious feature - and I always feel like living out of doors
					while it lasts. Bessie and I dined with Lellie Parsons on Friday - a big,
					formal, dreary banquet. Mr. Agassig and Dr. Wolcott of Boston dined here Sunday
					evening. I am busy these days at the dentists - and begrudge the time I have to
					spend driving in an out. </p>
			</div>
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