Replies: 2 comments 49 replies
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Are you still seeing the same behavior? Sometimes this can come from changes in rain, sun, temperature, etc. I haven't really seen it swing that much. An oversized cell would cause the readings to go high really fast. But they shouldn't come down just as quickly. Maybe the probe isn't calibrated correctly? |
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Ugh! I looked at the "Bodies" section of Nixie and saw that the "Filter" had REM as the connection. I changed it to "No Connection" and think that took care of the problem. At least on the dashPanel, the sand filter now has a green dot when the pump is running. Previously, the dot was always white (since REM had nothing to turn on).
The pH probe & REM Chem appear to be working as expected at the moment & the pH reported by the probe remains pretty much around the set point. The ORP probe reading has not changed in over a day. If I reset the device, do I need to calibrate it? Not sure what's happening with it since it seemed to be working previously. Thank you for your help & patience. I really try not to be a problem child, though it's hard to tell at times. |
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For the pH and ORP readings, you should start in REM. See if the readings are changing in the UI. If they are, then check the feeds/connections between njsPC and REM to see if those are set up correctly. The logical implementation is: Resetting the device won't impact what's shown in njsPC, directly. The probes are rock solid once they are configured and if you aren't seeing the right data show up it usually isn't a probe issue (once it's been configured properly). Resetting it is only a last resort if you need to recalibrate or their is a physical problem with the probe. |
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REM is also showing the static value of 1020 mV. For some reason for a few minutes when I sent you the message earlier today, the probe read correctly for a few minutes & then reverted to 1020. I did not change anything during that period. The settings below have not changed since I calibrated the probe several weeks ago.
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Could the probe have been polluted by the work being done on the pool deck? The small inline filter seems to trap tons of stuff & the water in the flow cell appears to be clear. I could try cleaning it as Atlas suggests with a mild bleach solution and/or diluted muriatic acid. I just don't want to make things worse than they are... |
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My first thought would be to check the readings via the command line (but REM never lies, so I'm sure it's the same). I'm not smart enough to know how your construction dust would impact the probes, but it's certainly within the realm of possibility. I'd first try the probe in the calibration solution (if you still have some) and see what it reads. And then, yes, I'd carefully try to clean the probe per the instructions. Try the squirt bottle first. ;-)
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Will do. Thank you!
…On Mon, Apr 1, 2024, 7:32 PM tagyoureit ***@***.***> wrote:
My first thought would be to check the readings via the command line (but
REM *never* lies, so I'm sure it's the same).
I'm not smart enough to know how your construction dust would impact the
probes, but it's certainly within the realm of possibility. I'd first try
the probe in the calibration solution (if you still have some) and see what
it reads. And then, yes, I'd carefully try to clean the probe per the
instructions. Try the squirt bottle first. ;-)
2024-04-01_17-30-36.png (view on web)
<https://github.com/tagyoureit/nodejs-poolController/assets/1646840/c74f05d3-5787-4974-9fef-baf9b88eb44a>
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I am way out of my league here, too. All of the power within the enclosure originates in the ET enclosure and its 24 VAC transformer. I ran a 24VAC line from the ET transformer into the Nixie fiberglass box. From there the 24VAC is used as in the Wiki for the one valve actuator in my pool and also feeds a rectifier bridge. Output from the rectifier bridge runs the entire Pi stack including the feeds for the 3 HP relays and fireman's switch for the gas heater. All of the relays are still in the ET box as is the feed to the valve actuator. The wiring between the two boxes is all in a flexible conduit and all of the voltages are 24V+/- whether they are AC or DC. I assume the 24VAC transformer is grounded properly since I never touched the high voltage stuff in the ET box. I just switched the connectors to the 3 HP relays and the valve actuator to the Nixie relays from the ET board (I added the voltage flyback capacitors as suggested strongly in the Wiki. Naively, it seems to me, the only addition needed is the grounding of the Nixie enclosure. The two "simple" options are to run a 12ish guage grounding wire from the Nixie enclosure ground lug to the ground bar in the ET high voltage section or run the wire to the gas line for the heater, since it's nearby. The question I guess is would either of these options work and be appropriately safe and effective and meet code? |
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One other observation, until an hour or so ago, the ORP probe reported about 590 mV. Now it's dropping like a stone & is down to 100mV. Could this phenomenon be, in part, due to temperature as well as no grounding of the Nixie enclosure? |
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Temperature or sunlight should cause a small, but predictable drop/increase. Dumping in a few gallons of acid would have a bigger impact. But to drop ~85% isn't normal. In every instance, these spikes/drops seem to be coming either from a bad probe or some type of electrical interference (anything from grounding to the probe wires being too close to an EMF field [other 120/240v wires or motors] to a loose connection in the Pi stack to, apparently, even the connectors touching the plastic enclosure). |
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The acid feeder has run only briefly this morning and could not have dumped anywhere near one, let alone several, gallons of acid into the pool today. The pH has been reasonably close to the set point of 7.3 for the past 4-1/2 hours and for several weeks, actually. I checked & although the gas line running into the pool heater is metal, the underground gas connection from the heater is not, so no grounding option there. I may try running a ground wire from the ground lug to the ground bus bar in the ET & hope that helps. No 120/240 volt lines are near the probes or their wires & the Pi stack appears to be secure. Voltages to the EZO boards have never wavered from their current values. |
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I wanted to get a few days of experience before posting again--trying not to flood the forums with noise. In short, things seem to be working at long last. Here is a recap of the "solution."
The variation of the ORP probe readings appear reasonable currently & the pH probe has been solid from day 1. Fingers crossed that probe readings continue to be stable. It's been about 4 days since the above items were all in place and full control of pH & ORP were turned over to Nixie. Thanks to all for your suggestions & patience!!! |
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I've still got my training wheels on with REM, so please forgive my ignorance. I've only been using REM to control pH and ORP for a day, so I'm still getting a feel for things.
The REM Chem settings for my pool are in the screenshots below. If a picture is worth a thousand words, they're a short dissertation. The current water temperature is 65.1, a bit cool for a swim, but it's definitely March & I'm looking towards April with enthusiasm.
Late afternoon yesterday I had an "ORP level high" alarm, with the ORP level over 800mV. This morning, things settled down & the salt cell went to work by mid morning. By noon, I had another "ORP level high" alarm with a reading of over 1000 mV.
Is this "normal" behavior? Is there anything I should or can do so the salt cell won't miss its target by more than 20%? Is this behavior a consequence of water temperature that will end once it's in the 70s or 80s?
A couple of hours later, I have an "ORP level too low" alarm with a reading of about 625 mV. Again, is this typical and to be expected?
Thanks!
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