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before_we_begin.md

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Before We Begin

Please remember that tuning prints will get you close, but they should not be taken as gospel. You should get in the habit of finely adjusting based on actual prints afterwards.

My methods are all purely visual / based on intuition.

I avoid using calipers as much as possible for initial tuning, for a few reasons:

  • Not everyone has high quality calipers.
  • Not everyone uses them in exactly the same way.
  • 3D printing is not completely consistent.
    • Wall thicknesses and first layer thicknesses can vary in different places.
    • Flow characteristics can change at different speeds.
    • Things like bulges, overextruded areas, and layer misalignments can throw measurements off too.

I certainly don't mean to imply that calibrating with calipers is wrong or impossible. Many of these things can be mitigated.

I just wanted to share what I have personally found to result in the best quality prints. It also becomes more accessible by not requiring quality calipers.

⚠️ Important Checks

Before you follow any tuning methods in this guide, ensure that:

  • Voron V2: I highly recommend following my 📄Voron V2 gantry squaring instructions first.

  • ⚠️ Everything is tight (seriously, check again)

    • Go back again and re-tighten every single screw you can possibly find, especially grub screws, linear rails, and everything in the toolhead.
    • I do this once every once in a while, and I often find something that has shaken loose and is causing me issues that are extremely difficult to troubleshoot.

  • ⚠️ Your nozzle is not partially clogged.

    • If your nozzle is partially clogged, you may not even notice. You may be able to print, but you will have an extremely difficult time trying to tune.
      • Ensure that you can easily extrude by hand with the filament latch open.
      • Ensure that the material falls straight down out of the nozzle when extruding midair. It should not shoot out to the side.
    • Hit it with a nozzle cleaning needle just in case.

  • Your thermistors are the correct types in your config. Please double check them.

    • ⚠️ If you use any NTC 100K B3950 thermistors, update Klipper to the most recent version and change all instances of sensor_type: NTC 100K beta 3950 to sensor_type: Generic 3950 in your config. There was a 📄bug causing these thermistors to be inaccurate, which was fixed with a 📄recent deprecation.

      • Please note that some other features have been deprecated recently too. If you have not updated Klipper in a while, please see 📄here for instructions on how to fix up your config for the new Klipper version.

        • You may also need to recompile/reflash your MCUs if you get a "command format mismatch" error after updating. See 📄here.

  • Your motion components are clean, particularly between gear/pulley/idler teeth.

  • Your nozzle is clean.

  • Your nozzle has been tightened while hot (unless it's a Revo), and is not leaking material through the threads around the nozzle or heatbreak.

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