add UIAA gradetype

[l4u532]

OpenBeta misses some database fields/types to cover the needs for climbs in Central Europe (Germany, Austria, Switzerland, etc.). For one, the UIAA grading system. For the other, the number of bolts (fixed anchors) for a climb, as sport climbs are the vast majority, trad climbs are more of a niche.

[l4u532]

• Merge adding UIAA to sandbag Add support for the UIAA grading scale sandbag#81

[vnugent]

@l4u532 thanks for the PR. May I ask that you create 2 separate PRs, one for UIAA and one for bolt count field?

For the bolt count, maybe consider using an array to account for multipitch climbs?

[bradleyDean]

@l4u532 thanks for the PR. May I ask that you create 2 separate PRs, one for UIAA and one for bolt count field?

For the bolt count, maybe consider using an array to account for multipitch climbs?

How are we dealing with variants of routes? Many multipitch routes have slight variations, where you can break off from the standard route and maybe bypass a difficult section, for example, by climbing a bolt ladder or an easier or harder pitch.
As far as the bolt-count problem goes, how should we handle this?

This really introduces some complexity. Do we already have a method for representing route variants? It seems to me that an array with array index mapping to bolt count per pitch would not easily extend to representing bolt counts for routes with variations. On the other hand, if every variation has its own unique record and name, then there is no problem.
Sorry I am not yet very familiar with the Schema we use for representing multipitch routes.

[l4u532]

@musoke @bradleyDean (1) I suggest creating individual routes for when breaking off of the original route (ie. taking a variant). How else would you be able to tick a route.

(2) For "boltsCount", I agree a simple String array should be the most elegant and user-friendly implementation.

As @musoke suggested, grade should then become a String array, to map difficulty to pitch.

[l4u532]

@musoke @vnugent This adds UIAA grade. Removed boltsCount from this PR (will add in subsequent PR, then start on #266).

[musoke]

Could you add some tests? https://github.com/OpenBeta/openbeta-graphql/pull/255/files has analogous ones for Ewbank grades.

[musoke]

Do you want to define a context that uses UIAA too?

openbeta-graphql/src/GradeUtils.ts

Line 28 in dab9388

UIAA = 'UIAA',

exists but doesn't have its grades defined.

[l4u532]

Do you want to define a context that uses UIAA too?

openbeta-graphql/src/GradeUtils.ts

Line 28 in dab9388

UIAA = 'UIAA',

exists but doesn't have its grades defined.

Good spot. Hm, I don't think I want to define it... COUNTRIES_DEFAULT_NON_US_GRADE_CONTEXT expects this, with a correct-looking mapping. Yet, in Central Europe, where UIAA is dominant, people still use a mix of UIAA and French; in my view, one cannot really definitely pinpoint UIAA to a regional context (apart from alpine, maybe). Besides, gradeContext seems to need an overhaul anyway:

export const gradeContextToGradeScales: Partial<Record<GradeContexts, ClimbGradeContextType>> = {

ice, mixed are denominated in WI and MI grades. (Which are missing grades right now).

Do you think it's feasible to leave the definition out for now?

[musoke]

Yet, in Central Europe, where UIAA is dominant, people still use a mix of UIAA and French; in my view, one cannot really definitely pinpoint UIAA to a regional context (apart from alpine, maybe).

Yes, we need more flexibility there.

ice, mixed are denominated in WI and MI grades. (Which are missing grades right now).

I'm working on that, see #283. Likewise for aid.

Do you think it's feasible to leave the definition out for now?

Yes. The main advantage I see is it being an easy way to get some tests in.

[musoke]

Looks good! I left one more small query. Do you want to merge this before or after the ice grades in #283? If it's easier for you, I can rebase my PR on this and change the ice grade to WI there.

Could you open an issue describing the problems with the current UIAA context? I think there are similar questions to be addressed with other contexts - e.g. we don't have a way of allowing both winter ice and alpine ice grades, or aid and aid with mandatory free. Addressing these may require reworking the grade context model significantly.

[l4u532]

Looks good! I left one more small query. Do you want to merge this before or after the ice grades in #283? If it's easier for you, I can rebase my PR on this and change the ice grade to WI there.

I don't mind waiting. Just ping/mention me once you are done :)

Could you open an issue describing the problems with the current UIAA context? I think there are similar questions to be addressed with other contexts - e.g. we don't have a way of allowing both winter ice and alpine ice grades, or aid and aid with mandatory free. Addressing these may require reworking the grade context model significantly.

I must admit I have not fully understood the motivation behind and all the interconnections of the current gradeContext model. It def needs a re-work, though. I'll have a look.

[musoke]

Ok, will ping you when that's done 😄

[musoke]

@l4u532: sorry, I somehow closed this while trying to rebase your changes on develop. If you either git push -f or merge l4u532#1, we'll be set.
Sorry!

[musoke]

@all-contributors please add @l4u532 for code and ideas

[allcontributors]

@musoke

I've put up a pull request to add @l4u532! 🎉

[musoke]

thank you @l4u532!