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kyleboyle committed May 3, 2019
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1 change: 1 addition & 0 deletions .gitignore
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/public
/img
/temp
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3 changes: 0 additions & 3 deletions README.md

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6 changes: 6 additions & 0 deletions archetypes/default.md
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---
title: "{{ replace .Name "-" " " | title }}"
date: {{ .Date }}
draft: true
---

20 changes: 8 additions & 12 deletions config.toml
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baseurl = "/"
baseURL = "https://kyleboyle.com/"
languageCode = "en-us"
title = "Kyle Boyle"
theme = "crisp_kyle"
DisqusShortname = "kyleboylecom"
googleAnalytics = "UA-74726625-1"
title = "Kyle Boyle's Homepage"
theme = "basic"

[params]
# Used when a given page doesn't set its own.
defaultDescription = "Kyle Boyle"
defaultKeywords = "Kyle Boyle"
# for github pages
publishDir = "docs"

# Select a syntax highight.
# Check the static/css/highlight directory for options.
highlight = "sunburst"
[params]
github = "https://github.com/kyleboyle"
linkedin = "https://www.linkedin.com/in/kyboyle/"
1 change: 1 addition & 0 deletions content/_index.md
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![under construction](/img/construct.man.gif) ![under construction](/img/construct.spin.gif)
33 changes: 15 additions & 18 deletions content/post/filcotkl.md
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Expand Up @@ -16,33 +16,28 @@ I decided I would like to try a mechanical keyboard but an off the shelf option

There are a variety of options and feature levels out there but I chose to go with one of the most basic options: a Filco Majestouch 2. The most important aspect about this model is that there is a replacement controller available with which I can use firmware that enables custom key maps and functions.

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure caption="keyboard in box" class="inset" src="/img/filco/005.jpg" >}}
{{< figure caption="Filco MJ 2" class="inset" src="/img/filco/007.jpg" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{< figure caption="keyboard in box" src="/img/filco/005.jpg" >}}
{{< figure caption="Filco MJ 2" src="/img/filco/007.jpg" >}}


The replacement controller, Pegasus Hoof, is built by Bathroom Epiphanies.
{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/001.jpg" caption="controller package" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/002.jpg" caption="safetly and securely packaged" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/003.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof PCB" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/004.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof business end" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/002.jpg" caption="safetly and securely packaged" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/003.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof PCB" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/004.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof business end" >}}

To replace the controller board, partial disassembly was required. The top of the case was removed by unscrewing the one screw on the back and disengaging the tabs that hold the top half to the bottom half.

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/008.jpg" caption="The top removed, plus shift and enter keys removed to expose the Cherry Brown key switches. This provides easier access to the controller when removing it." >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/009.jpg" caption="stock controller removed" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{< figure src="/img/filco/008.jpg" caption="The top removed, plus shift and enter keys removed to expose the Cherry Brown key switches. This provides easier access to the controller when removing it." >}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/009.jpg" caption="stock controller removed" >}}


{{< figure class="inset float" src="/img/filco/010.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof installed">}}

After the controller was installed, I replaced the stock key caps with a high quality set manufactured by GMK. I also outfitted each keycap with an o-ring around the stem which softens the key press feel when a key bottoms out (plus it quiets the key press a little bit.)
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/011.jpg" caption="GMK Dolch key set installed">}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/011.jpg" caption="GMK Dolch key set installed">}}

For firmware, I used Easy AVR. The media keys pause/play, mute, volume up, and volume down worked as expected. The decrease and increase screen brightness are available by using the `SCROLL_LOCK` and `PAUSE` key mappings respectively.

Expand All @@ -66,6 +61,8 @@ index dace012..47c180e 100644
#define SC_MAC_CP_REPEAT 0xBC /* Repeat */
{{< /highlight >}}

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/012.jpg" caption="finished product">}}
{{< figure src="/img/filco/012.jpg" caption="finished product">}}

One last change I'd like to make is to add a detachable USB cable. The Filco models have the USB cable wired into the board so it is not replaceable. My keyboard plugs into my laptop which is only a foot or 2 away, making the stock cable unnecessarily long.

UPDATE: I have since added a USB mini female connector to the back of the case. I've done this on 2 different filco keyboards and it fits the hole the factory cable feeds through pretty well with some slight trimming.
50 changes: 25 additions & 25 deletions content/post/glock-trigger.md
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Expand Up @@ -4,7 +4,7 @@ date = "2016-02-25"
description = ""
keywords = []
title = "Glock Trigger Enhancements"
draft = true
draft = false
titleimg = "/img/glock/title.jpg"
+++

Expand All @@ -14,16 +14,16 @@ So, let's do what we can to lighten and smooth out the trigger pull. We are simp

It is best to polish by hand. Using a dremel or polishing wheel provides an opportunity for an ill-timed sneeze to ruin a part. With hand polishing we are guaranteed to not remove a significant amount of surface material.

First, take the gun apart.
First, disassemble.


{{< figure caption="Stock Glock" src="/img/glock/001.jpg" >}}
{{< figure caption="field stripped" src="/img/glock/002.jpg" >}}

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure caption="Stock Glock" class="inset" src="/img/glock/001.jpg" >}}
{{< figure caption="field stripped" class="inset" src="/img/glock/002.jpg" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

And finally a full detail strip. The instructions on how to do so can be found elsewhere.

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/003.jpg" caption="detail stripped" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/003.jpg" caption="detail stripped" >}}


{{< figure class="inset float" src="/img/glock/004.jpg" caption="plunger before polish" >}}
Expand All @@ -34,52 +34,52 @@ You can use any metal polish you have on hand. I used a brand called nevr-dull t


I chose not to polish to a mirror finish because I didn't want to remove too much surface material. There are still some small bumps but the surface is smooth.
{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/005.jpg" caption="polishing compound" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/006.jpg" caption="smooth plunger" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{< figure src="/img/glock/005.jpg" caption="polishing compound" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/006.jpg" caption="smooth plunger" >}}



The next surface is on the striker. It is the front facing ledge that connects with the trigger bar.
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/007.jpg" caption="striker profile" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/007.jpg" caption="striker profile" >}}
Do not round off the bottom edge as it affects the feel of the trigger break.
{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/008.jpg" caption="striker before" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/009.jpg" caption="striker after" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{< figure src="/img/glock/008.jpg" caption="striker before" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/009.jpg" caption="striker after" >}}


The trigger assembly contains the trigger bar and trigger connector.
{{< figure src="/img/glock/010.jpg" caption="trigger assembly" >}}
The trigger connector can be replaced with an after market part which has slightly different geometry that will further lighten the trigger pull. I chose to install a 3.5 pound connector, but you can also polish the stock connector.

To separate the 2 components, pull the trigger bar forward (the metal piece connected to the trigger) and pivot the bar out of the mechanism housing. The spring will still be attached. Then finagle the trigger bar off the spring.

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/011.jpg" caption="trigger assembly removed from channel" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/011.jpg" caption="trigger assembly removed from channel" >}}

Trigger bar contact points to polish:

1. rear top of cross, contacts the striker tab that we polished earlier.
2. inside below the cross, contacts the trigger connector
3. top protrusion, pushes up the safety plunger that we polished earlier

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/012.jpg" caption="trigger bar" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/012.jpg" caption="trigger bar" >}}

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/016.jpg" caption="trigger bar polished top" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/016.jpg" caption="trigger bar polished top" >}}

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/017.jpg" caption="trigger bar polished inside" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/017.jpg" caption="trigger bar polished inside" >}}

The last piece to polish is the trigger connector. It is removed by placing a flat object underneath and lightly prying and wedging. I am actually replacing this part, but the stock part can be improved as well. Polish the outside half beside the lip as this is the area that rubs against the trigger bar.
My after market replacement came polished from factory (yay).
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/013.jpg" caption="stock connector" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/014.jpg" caption="stock connector & after market connector" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/013.jpg" caption="stock connector" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/014.jpg" caption="stock connector & after market connector" >}}

This is the stock connector polished to a point that roughly matches the after market connector:

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/015.jpg" caption="connector polished" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/015.jpg" caption="connector polished" >}}

Put everything back together.
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/glock/018.jpg" caption="assembled" >}}
{{< figure src="/img/glock/018.jpg" caption="assembled" >}}

![Silky Smooth](https://41.media.tumblr.com/4ae0e852dc7cca4eb8908287f819a943/tumblr_nrzviaTYZM1ub8zmko1_500.jpg "Silky Smooth")

Enjoy your trigger job and polishing induced carpal tunnel.
Enjoy your trigger job and polishing-induced carpal tunnel.
File renamed without changes.
44 changes: 44 additions & 0 deletions content_old/post/bball-terror.md
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+++
categories = ["nontechnical"]
date = "1996-11-27"
description = ""
keywords = []
title = "Basketball Terror"
draft = false
+++

"Hustle up guys. We have to get ready for the big basketball game on Halloween night against the Terrorizers. Practice a couple more three point shots and then hit the showers."

"I don't like the sounds of playing on Halloween night," said one of the players named Carl Blackjack.

"Neither do I. You know what happened last year."

Everyday the team practiced for the big game and when the game came, they were doing everything right.

"He shoots, he scores!" shouted the announcer. "Yeahhhh!" hollered the crowd. The Terrorizers were losing ninety-five to sixty-three. The game wasn't very exciting.

In the fourth quarter the big statdium lights suddenly flickered and died.

"Ahhhhhh...!" screamed the fans.

"Uh-oh. It seems we have a light failure," explained the announcer. "Good thing there is a backup system."

Blink... Blink... Blink, when the lights as they came back on. A sign of relief came from the crowd, and the players.

The fans probably wish the lights hadn't come back on, because on the sidelines the Terrorizers' coach... was a witch. Then Mr. Blackjack turned his head to look at the playing surface, and this is what he saw: a giant that looked hungry, a snake with two fangs, two sickly white ghosts, and a green with mold jack-o-lantern with a smale that had one tooth missing. The whole Terrorizer team had turne into something strange.

"It looks like we're going to play anyway," Carl Blackjack told his team. A long groan came from his teammates.

Carl took the jumpball and won against the snake. Then he started dribbling down the court to score, when all of a sudden the snake wrapped around his legs, tripped him, and stole the basketball. He slithered about a meter away.

"The must of hurt," the announcer said enthusiastically.

Then the snake passed the ball to the giant. "FEE FIE FOE FUM" the giant bellowed. The giant too two long steps to the basket that rattled the stadium. The twenty foot giant simply dropped the basketball into the ten foot hoop.

The Terrorizers scored a few more points and something else happened to Mr. Blackjack. Carl had jsut received a pass and was running down the court. He did not see the jack-o-lantern and he stepped on it. The jack-o-lantern ate his shoe! While Carl was caught up with the jack-o-lantern, a ghost stole the ball and passed it across the court to his ghost brother. That ghost dribbled up the court and did an alley-oop to his brother.

"Now that's basketball!" yelled the announcer.

At the end of the game the score was one hundred twenty to ninety-five. Carl Blackjack and his teammates were very tired at the end of the game. The Terrorizers didn't even sweat a drop. It was a really unusual game. It was a good thing the tickets were cheap because most of the fans only stayed there until the fourth quarter.

"I'm getting too old for this," thought the announcer as he headed for his car.
71 changes: 71 additions & 0 deletions content_old/post/filcotkl.md
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@@ -0,0 +1,71 @@
+++
categories = ["keyboard", "electronics", "projects"]
date = "2016-03-25"
description = ""
keywords = []
title = "My First Mechanical Keyboard Project"
draft = false
titleimg = "/img/filco/title.jpg"
+++

I decided I would like to try a mechanical keyboard but an off the shelf option just wouldn't do. Here were my requirements:

- small form factor (tenkeyless, no numpad)
- function key row
- OSX compatible (media keys, other shortcuts)

There are a variety of options and feature levels out there but I chose to go with one of the most basic options: a Filco Majestouch 2. The most important aspect about this model is that there is a replacement controller available with which I can use firmware that enables custom key maps and functions.

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure caption="keyboard in box" class="inset" src="/img/filco/005.jpg" >}}
{{< figure caption="Filco MJ 2" class="inset" src="/img/filco/007.jpg" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

The replacement controller, Pegasus Hoof, is built by Bathroom Epiphanies.
{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/001.jpg" caption="controller package" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/002.jpg" caption="safetly and securely packaged" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/003.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof PCB" >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/004.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof business end" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

To replace the controller board, partial disassembly was required. The top of the case was removed by unscrewing the one screw on the back and disengaging the tabs that hold the top half to the bottom half.

{{% flexrow %}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/008.jpg" caption="The top removed, plus shift and enter keys removed to expose the Cherry Brown key switches. This provides easier access to the controller when removing it." >}}
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/009.jpg" caption="stock controller removed" >}}
{{% /flexrow %}}

{{< figure class="inset float" src="/img/filco/010.jpg" caption="Pegasus Hoof installed">}}

After the controller was installed, I replaced the stock key caps with a high quality set manufactured by GMK. I also outfitted each keycap with an o-ring around the stem which softens the key press feel when a key bottoms out (plus it quiets the key press a little bit.)
{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/011.jpg" caption="GMK Dolch key set installed">}}

For firmware, I used Easy AVR. The media keys pause/play, mute, volume up, and volume down worked as expected. The decrease and increase screen brightness are available by using the `SCROLL_LOCK` and `PAUSE` key mappings respectively.

The next / prev track key codes for OSX aren't the same as windows so the default key codes won't work. I used the following changes to the source code to get the `NEXT_TRACK` and `PREV_TRACK` track mappings working.

{{< highlight diff "style=borland" >}}
diff --git a/firmware/src/config_keymap.h b/firmware/src/config_keymap.h
index dace012..47c180e 100644
--- a/firmware/src/config_keymap.h
+++ b/firmware/src/config_keymap.h
@@ -38,8 +38,10 @@
#define SC_MAC_CP_RECORD 0xB2 /* Record */
#define SC_MAC_CP_FFW 0xB3 /* Fast Forward */
#define SC_MAC_CP_REW 0xB4 /* Rewind */
-#define SC_WIN_CP_NEXT_TRACK 0xB5 /* Scan Next Track One Shot Control (OSC) */
-#define SC_WIN_CP_PREV_TRACK 0xB6 /* Scan Previous Track One Shot Control (OSC) */
+#define SC_WIN_CP_NEXT_TRACK 0xB3 /* Scan Next Track One Shot Control (OSC) */
+#define SC_WIN_CP_PREV_TRACK 0xB4 /* Scan Previous Track One Shot Control (OSC) */
#define SC_WIN_CP_STOP 0xB7 /* Stop One Shot Control (OSC) */
#define SC_MAC_CP_EJECT 0xB8 /* Eject */
#define SC_MAC_CP_REPEAT 0xBC /* Repeat */
{{< /highlight >}}

{{< figure class="inset" src="/img/filco/012.jpg" caption="finished product">}}

One last change I'd like to make is to add a detachable USB cable. The Filco models have the USB cable wired into the board so it is not replaceable. My keyboard plugs into my laptop which is only a foot or 2 away, making the stock cable unnecessarily long.
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