Merge pull request #199 from uclab-potsdam/frausabine-patch-64

Update 04_Lipp_GNM_Werkgruppen_en.md

src/routes/texts/04_Lipp_GNM_Werkgruppen_en.md

@@ -62,7 +62,7 @@ The term [doublet](set/56174) originally referred to an undergarment that was wo
 
 It was used for everyday wear as well as for festive occasions. The doublet was worn by both men and women. Examples include the [Portrait of a woman with ruff and beaded bonnet](item/502) from 1588, the [Portrait of a woman in a doublet and slit sleeves](item/566), or the [Portrait of Giulia Casale](item/401). The tall, stiff hat was also worn not only by men but also by women, as this [Portrait of a Woman with a Spanish Hat and Ruff](item/5103) shows. The engraver [Wenceslas Hollar](item/9799) dedicated several series to [Portraits of Women](item/5103) from different regions. The depictions of [The Woman with the Man's Hat](item/7765) and [The Wife of the Lord Major from London](item/7761) should be highlighted here. The gender assignment was based on the clothing for the lower body. The flat and strongly masculine doublet, worn by women, triggered an early criticism of clothing [^Cf. In Mode 2015, pp. 166-167, cat. nos. 87 and 88] Material and expense varied according to class and were specified in the dress code.
 
-An early example is the [Doublet with slit pattern](item/56167) from the end of the 16th century. The appearance of the doublet is characterised by the padded front and back sections, the long and narrow sleeves, a central button fastening and a high stand-up collar. The slit pattern of the outer material is based on contemporary woven patterns.[^Cf. In Mode 2015, p.85]
+An early example is the [Doublet with slit pattern](item/56167) from the beginning of the 17th century. The design of the doublet is characterised by the padded front and back sections, the long and narrow sleeves, a central button fastening and a high stand-up collar. The slit pattern of the outer material is based on contemporary woven patterns.[^Cf. In Mode 2015, p.85]
 
 The [Doublet with embroidered decorative stripes](item/19905), dating from 1630 to 1640, is characterised by a heavily textured surface, distinctive sleeves, a pleated lap at the back and a flowing silhouette. The red and yellow silk atlas as well as the blue and yellow embroidery threads have faded today, but still bear witness to the eye-catching colour of the past. Although the collar and lap of this doublet are still cut separately, they join the front and back parts seamlessly and without visible transitions. The embroidered decorative stripes have been placed over the seams. The shoulder pieces are joined together at the top edge with decorative stitching. The sleeves are wide and open at the front with buttons.[^Cf. In Mode 2015, p.101] This doublet underwent various changes over time. A ‘gusset’ (dt.: Zwickel) extending to the waist was introduced in the back. This consisted of at least three flaps folded open, which were removed from the shoulder of the doublet. The result of the adjustment was a more pronounced waistline in the back area, which also makes the lap appear bell-shaped. This indicates an adaptation to a woman's body.[^Cf. In Mode 2015, p.101]